4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

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Old 11-02-2006, 07:47 AM
  #31  
RiCe_KiLlEr
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Default RE: cams

i will post clips of my car later on today.....
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:17 PM
  #32  
s4697
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ORIGINAL: handyandy

I would probably only need some stage I's right? I dont have FI or anything. I wanna hear a clip of them revving, is it noticeable when revved?
yes
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Old 11-02-2006, 03:42 PM
  #33  
2000GT4.6
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Default RE: cams


ORIGINAL: orangedrp007

how much better will a cammed car respond to boltons like cai and headers?
Because of the LTs etc, I was picking up about 30 WHP at 6K RPM.

IMO the gains cams give you for the price is a little steep, but the car really seemed more than 30 WHP faster. Instead of falling off from 5500+ it just kept pulling harder. I am sure with a better tune I could have picked up even more power.

If you plan on doing both the N20 and cams then get the nitrous first, but if you just want a boltons/cammed car IMO they are worth it.
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Old 11-02-2006, 05:46 PM
  #34  
radaman
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ORIGINAL: SINISTER

In my opinion, for a stock motor, a cam swap isn't worth the $1000+ you are going to spend before it is done, all for about 20 - 25 horses. You would be better off spending that money on some nitrous, you'll be a lot happier. Unless you plan on forging your bottom end some time soon, don't bother with the cams.
Yeah, but when you say 20-25, you mean rwhp. It may be 35+ at the crank though which is pretty good for 1k.
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Old 11-02-2006, 05:48 PM
  #35  
04BlueGT
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Default RE: cams

Radaman, if you read the entire thread, sinister recommends against spending $1K for 20 hp, but his intake costs over $500 and nets 2 hp. Ignore him.
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Old 11-02-2006, 08:01 PM
  #36  
97 5.0L
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Default RE: cams


ORIGINAL: LvGordo

well, the opinion of "unless you are going to forge, dont get cams" to me just isnt good advice (unless you are saying stage 2 and above you wont get the full benefit, then i understand the comment). cams will make your car more than noticably faster, plus you will get some lope. Yeah, 1000 is nothing to sneeze at. But that power will always be there, not waiting empty til you can get to the place that will fill your bottle or til you get the cash to do it. I aint picking on nitrous at all. SOmeone pointed out, we spend many hundreds of dollars on stuff that nets only a few hp, cams are worth it.

As stated, stage 2 and above, you wont be able to spin stock internals to get the full benefit, but you will still gain some hp and some killer lope.
I had another thread on here recently and found out that I have stage III comp cams and they say that their rpm range is 2000 to 6000 so even though I do have forged internals why do I need forged internals if the cams rpm range goes up to 6000 rpm. Stock GT's can do that. Not being a smart a** just dont know much about cams.
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Old 11-02-2006, 09:12 PM
  #37  
04BlueGT
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Default RE: cams

Like I said in the other thread, Comp Cams stage 3 is not the same as most others. They are weaker. The comps are closer to stage 2, really. Most other's stage 2 and 3 need the motor to spin above 6000 to get the full potential from them. That is what stock short blocks won't handle the larger cams - they can't spin fast enough without risking a rod seeking the great outdoors. Cast rods can't handle that abuse.

However, since you have forged internals, you can get cams that can use more of the rpm range, but it will hurt daily driveability. Since you said yours is not a DD, you can go bigger on the cams if you wish. Talk to VT yet?
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