skiingsean

I just found out that my problem which I thought was my clutch not disengaging turns out to be my throwout bearing went to **** and ate my pressure plate. So I am looking at a new clutch assembly. Being a college student I will most likely have to do this myself. My question is this, what clutch. AND I know there are other posts on this however, today the tranny shop (reliable) told me that they have seen problems with fitting my model and year car with high perf. clutch's, they even said the owner has a 98gt and ran into problems, in that the clutch sys. can be <not> smooth, grinding etc. They recommend an OEM equivelent part. What do you guys suggest and has anyone else ever heard problems of this nature, and what clutch's do you all recommend .


Thanks in advance

Sean

skiingsean

BTW, I am pretty mechanically inclined, however, this will be my <first> clutch job, following the correct instructions and through some common sense how hard of a job does this tend to be.

Thanks again

Stangfreak2002

The same sh?t happened to me on my jeep tj and it turned out to be the transmission so check it well !!

S_man_9

Id go with a SPEC clutch. Never heard of the problem u told me

Casper98GT

I havea 98 Gt. My throwout bearing was making noise so i got to it before it got me. lol. I just installed a new clutch. I went through www.mustangtuning.com Great people, great site. Great clutch. King Cobra clutch. Steeda adj cable, QUAD, machined flywheel. I did this in 3hrs. A my dealership. The only thing you will have thouble with is the starter. Its a bitch. The only reason they suggest OEM, is because it fits youre car perfectly and if they were to install it they would gaf you. lol. I have put in anything from stock, to centerforce in the 96-98's and never had a problem with them fitting.

stonemonk9

i jus replaced my whole tranny so i did the clutch while i was at it, i also went w/ a king cobra, i love it, i think u ahve to get 10.5 in clutch, i forget exactly now. the starter isnt that much truble if u get a whole bunch of extensions on the 3/4 drive and come from almost the fron of the engine through the k member. the real pain in the *** is the top two bolts that hold the trans in. its very tight and hard to get to them. and also i have alotta truble reinstalling the x pipe idono if anyone else has this problem but its alil tight.

skiingsean

Well thank you all for your input, I will check into the SPEC clutches. Tomorrow I am going to tell the shop that I want them to tear the clutch down and pinpoint the problem for their "30$" diag fee. After that I will have them leave it "taken apart" for lack of better words granted that is the problem and go to work.

Keep you all posted. And thanks.


Sean


PS. StangFreak2002 BTW what ended up being the problem with your tranny. Because in the end I had actually thought it was a tranny problem until today.

Also where should I look for cheaper SPEC clutches?

USAMuscle

D|ckheads. The only reason they saw problems with high performance clutches is because they're stupid and don't know how to install one. Did they use an alignment tool? "Hmmm...what's that sound I hear at high RPM's..."

Anyway, DON'T use an OEM replacement clutch. The whole reason behind upgrading the stock clutch is because the OEM clutch SUCKS! You can get a Ford Racing clutch which provides 40% more holding power over stock, and that's enough for a stock or mildly modified Mustang. Or if you can afford more, get a Centerforce or Hays dual friction clutch, or a McLeod street twin clutch.

USAMuscle

There's a very easy solution to that. Once the exhaust is dropped and the driveshaft is disconnected, let the weight of the transmission drop it down (it won't go very far) and then you'll have real easy access to the top 2 bolts. Use a bunch of extensions and a universal jointed adapter and it's a piece of cake.

stonemonk9

ya, i realized that after puttin it back in the second time, we jus jacked the engine up and it tilted the trans