Engine build
#11
RE: Engine build
If I'm reading this right, what your changing to forged is the pistons. If you are going to spray it you really want to use forged rods also, the stock ones are a weak point., plus you will have the cost of pressing off the stock ones and pressing on the new ones, you won't need to do this with forged rods. The crank is pretty strong so don't machine it if it doesn't need to be, just polish it. Hell, if it needs machining I have one here thats MINT, about 15000 miles on it that I can let you have for about 40.00 + ship. Good luck.
#13
RE: Engine build
If you're going to rebuild, blueprint the block/crank and go with forged rod and pistons. Manley rods are great. Pistons; either Manley or Ross. GT stock rod/pistons are only good up to 400 SAE hp.
#14
RE: Engine build
there is 0 point in forgeing without the rods - your pistons and crank can take you to 600-700 hp (of course not as safely as forged can but ive seen it done a few times)
the crank is insurance and raises your redline, so you would want to p/p your heads to keep making power up top... the rods are what fail on the 4.6 so if you want forget the pistons - do the rods and crank if you want to be cheap about it - a guy here has done that is puttin 650 rwhp (but i wouldnt do it
the crank is insurance and raises your redline, so you would want to p/p your heads to keep making power up top... the rods are what fail on the 4.6 so if you want forget the pistons - do the rods and crank if you want to be cheap about it - a guy here has done that is puttin 650 rwhp (but i wouldnt do it
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TfcCDR
V6 (1994-2004) Mustangs
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09-14-2015 12:08 PM