2000GT4.6

Man watch that thing CLOSE. You have VERY little thread with just a drilled pan.

The entire purpose of using a punch is to roll the material of the pan back so you can tap the rolled material. The pan is VERY thin, you can't have much more than 1 or 2 threads made on there.

I would be super nervous with that setup, to the point of ordering a new pan or at least pulling it and welding a nut on the backside of the hole.

If your dad has a starter punch I would definatly use that SOHC. It just prevents ANY possibltly (as much as possible) of getting ANY chips/ground metal into the pan. This is how MPH told me to do it, and if anyone has experence with literally hundreds of 2v blower installs it's them.

Its not any harder than drilling it, starter punches are easy to use specifically cause they are made to, well, start holes.

mikev08826

Yeah, I realize why a punch would be used instead of drilling. I spent forever finding the punch and tap and I couldnt get any leverage with the hammer and the punch (the punch was about 6" long.) I couldn't get the damn thing to get in there. There is no room. It was kind of a last resort as I was concerned about breaking the oil pan gasket seal where I would lose my oil pressure.

Even when I drilled about 1/2 way I couldn't get leverage with the punch and hammer...

The metal shavings in the oil pan was also a concern of mine. A BIG concernt of mine. But the oil send unit comes off of the oil filter, so I'm guessing all the oil that get's pumped to the engine/blower unit get's filtered immediately before.

SOHCtimes2

That sucks....my kit came with the punch to use. Its MAYBE 4 inches long, plus I'm just going to use the air hammer at my dad's work. I would definately like JB weld that **** on or something though, lol.

mikev08826

Yeah, I used some oil resistant sylicone sealer on the threads. I was thinking about using the JB weld, but the last thing I want is to get that crap sucked into my engine.

2000GT4.6

I had to cut my punch off, basically I cut off the entire handle (straight hex shaped part) and some of the taper. My punch was SUPER long, but I had access to a saw.

Seriously man, I know we have not exactly always gotten along perfectly in the past, but I don't want ot see anyones oil line come out and ruin a engine/blower. You should definatly pull the pan and weld a nut or do something. Hell, get yourself a 7qt pan (aka an upgrade) and if you measure carefully you can do the tapping outside of the car.

I would either do that or pull the pan, pull the threaded part out of hte rubber hose, and then stick the threaded part thru the pan. Then, screw on the nut real tight, and use a wire welder on LOW power to put a bead or two on the nut. Its gonna be tough not to burn thru the pan, but a weld or two (spotweld) and it will never come off again.

Its alot of work pulling the pan, but you can't hardly even have a full thread on there. I got prolly 6+ threads on there with all the material the punch moves back.