T-45 to T-3650 Swap
12-10-2006, 03:02 PM
#1
T-45 to T-3650 Swap
Tremec 45 swap to a Tremec 3650
Safety is essential. Do not put yourself at risk. Use eye protection, gloves, jackstands, disconnect the battery, ask for a help, etc.. Use every precaution you can. We don't want to see anybody injured. That only takes away from what you like to do and discourages others in trying. So please be safe and happy modding your rod.
Things you will need:
-Tremec 3650 transmission.
-Clutch Kit or an alignment tool if using used kit.
-Fluid 4 qts. only need 3.76 qts.
-Shifter, if the transmission doesnt come with one.
-Tools: mainly the usual except for something to cut the crossmember with and a jack.
transmission pulling procedure.
-Disconnect the battery.
-Drain the tranny fluid by removing the plug on the side of the tranny. This plug has the 3/8" square hole for a ratchet with no socket on it.
-Remove the shifter bezel and shifter.
-Undo the four O2 sensors, VSS and reverse lamp switch connectors.
-The harness for these sensors will be connected to the tranny in a couple of different places. Just pry them out of their clips or holes.
-Remove the cover from the clutch fork and remove the cable from the fork.
-Remove the driveshaft, knowing that there will be some fluid leakage, get a pan or a catch to prevent a mess you have to lay in.
-Remove the exhaust system. If you have a cross over, H or X pipe this may mean you have to pull the whole exhaust system as one piece.
-Support the engine. Unless you lick broken hoses and being flooded with antifreeze or refrigerant.
-Support the tranny with a jack.
-Remove the crossmember from the body and tranny.
-Remove the tranny bellhousing bolts. You may have to remove the starter.(3 bolts)
-With the tranny supported, pull and lower the tranny.
-The next is the hardest Take a Break! you deserve it.
Installation:
-Inspect the flywheel. This is a good time to get it resurfaced and magnifluxed.
-Clean the pressure plate and flywheel friction surfaces with brake cleaner. Put the the pressure plate on the flywheel using the alignment tool that came with the new clutch kit. This should be a 10.5" clutch and 10 count spline. Lube the splines and lube the joints and friction points on the fork.
-Make sure the new tranny has all the fluid out of it. A good way to drain this is to put it in a tall heavy bucket with the tailside down.
-Install the transmission with the bolts close by.
-After getting the tranny snugged up on the bellhousing put the transmission crossmember in with the mount off. And just lay it on the brace with the two outer bolts holding it. You don't have to put the nuts on yet, its just holding the weight so you can do the rest.
-Except for the exhaust, install the equipment in reverse until you get to the VSS this is where the speed calibrator comes in. You can install it just inside the tranny tunnel or lengthen the wires to put it in the console.
-The reverse light maybe different, so you may have to splice into the wires and wire nut them together or however you like to mate wires. Which is which, doesn't matter, its DC so it will work ether way. No going wrong here.
-Jack the tranny up just enough to relieve the weight off of the crossmember, this is where you make your measurement to notch out the crossmember. On some you may not have to, but on mine I did. You can notch it out on the mount flange or bridge it with longer bolts on the body. Notching the middle, you may want to box the crossmember in and weld it back up to sturdy it up. Put the crossmember and mount back on. If it fits without rubbing you did good.
-Install the exhaust system and whatever may be left.
-Go back and double check that all your wires are connected and all your bolt are tight.
-Fill the tranny with the appropriate fluid. It will use 3.76 qts. I used Royal Purple, but its up to you.
-Put the shifter on and the bezel. The shifter will not work from a T-45 the bolt pattern is different and the shifter knuckle will not make the full sweep.
-Check for leaking fluid and if none start it up and give it a few minutes to reach the bearings for the input shaft.
-You did it. Congrats or your cussing me for leaving something out. If I did get back with us as soon as possible so we can correct the mishap.
-Enjoy.
Pictures coming....hold on.
Safety is essential. Do not put yourself at risk. Use eye protection, gloves, jackstands, disconnect the battery, ask for a help, etc.. Use every precaution you can. We don't want to see anybody injured. That only takes away from what you like to do and discourages others in trying. So please be safe and happy modding your rod.
Things you will need:
-Tremec 3650 transmission.
-Clutch Kit or an alignment tool if using used kit.
-Fluid 4 qts. only need 3.76 qts.
-Shifter, if the transmission doesnt come with one.
-Tools: mainly the usual except for something to cut the crossmember with and a jack.
transmission pulling procedure.
-Disconnect the battery.
-Drain the tranny fluid by removing the plug on the side of the tranny. This plug has the 3/8" square hole for a ratchet with no socket on it.
-Remove the shifter bezel and shifter.
-Undo the four O2 sensors, VSS and reverse lamp switch connectors.
-The harness for these sensors will be connected to the tranny in a couple of different places. Just pry them out of their clips or holes.
-Remove the cover from the clutch fork and remove the cable from the fork.
-Remove the driveshaft, knowing that there will be some fluid leakage, get a pan or a catch to prevent a mess you have to lay in.
-Remove the exhaust system. If you have a cross over, H or X pipe this may mean you have to pull the whole exhaust system as one piece.
-Support the engine. Unless you lick broken hoses and being flooded with antifreeze or refrigerant.
-Support the tranny with a jack.
-Remove the crossmember from the body and tranny.
-Remove the tranny bellhousing bolts. You may have to remove the starter.(3 bolts)
-With the tranny supported, pull and lower the tranny.
-The next is the hardest Take a Break! you deserve it.
Installation:
-Inspect the flywheel. This is a good time to get it resurfaced and magnifluxed.
-Clean the pressure plate and flywheel friction surfaces with brake cleaner. Put the the pressure plate on the flywheel using the alignment tool that came with the new clutch kit. This should be a 10.5" clutch and 10 count spline. Lube the splines and lube the joints and friction points on the fork.
-Make sure the new tranny has all the fluid out of it. A good way to drain this is to put it in a tall heavy bucket with the tailside down.
-Install the transmission with the bolts close by.
-After getting the tranny snugged up on the bellhousing put the transmission crossmember in with the mount off. And just lay it on the brace with the two outer bolts holding it. You don't have to put the nuts on yet, its just holding the weight so you can do the rest.
-Except for the exhaust, install the equipment in reverse until you get to the VSS this is where the speed calibrator comes in. You can install it just inside the tranny tunnel or lengthen the wires to put it in the console.
-The reverse light maybe different, so you may have to splice into the wires and wire nut them together or however you like to mate wires. Which is which, doesn't matter, its DC so it will work ether way. No going wrong here.
-Jack the tranny up just enough to relieve the weight off of the crossmember, this is where you make your measurement to notch out the crossmember. On some you may not have to, but on mine I did. You can notch it out on the mount flange or bridge it with longer bolts on the body. Notching the middle, you may want to box the crossmember in and weld it back up to sturdy it up. Put the crossmember and mount back on. If it fits without rubbing you did good.
-Install the exhaust system and whatever may be left.
-Go back and double check that all your wires are connected and all your bolt are tight.
-Fill the tranny with the appropriate fluid. It will use 3.76 qts. I used Royal Purple, but its up to you.
-Put the shifter on and the bezel. The shifter will not work from a T-45 the bolt pattern is different and the shifter knuckle will not make the full sweep.
-Check for leaking fluid and if none start it up and give it a few minutes to reach the bearings for the input shaft.
-You did it. Congrats or your cussing me for leaving something out. If I did get back with us as soon as possible so we can correct the mishap.
-Enjoy.
Pictures coming....hold on.
10-10-2008, 01:18 AM
#5
1st Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location:
Posts: 108
Just to add to this thread......
The T-45 tranny swap to a T3650 is a COMPLETE BOLT UP, I didnt have to rig, or adjust anything.... pulled the old tranny (t45) and installed the newer t3650. Of course the t45 shifter is not reusable on the 3650, so I had to upgrade to a TriAx!
Thanks for the above post, as it was very helpful!
The T-45 tranny swap to a T3650 is a COMPLETE BOLT UP, I didnt have to rig, or adjust anything.... pulled the old tranny (t45) and installed the newer t3650. Of course the t45 shifter is not reusable on the 3650, so I had to upgrade to a TriAx!
Thanks for the above post, as it was very helpful!
10-10-2008, 02:33 PM
#8
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 912
10-10-2008, 02:59 PM
#9
Underboss
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Helaware
Posts: 20,273
10-10-2008, 03:56 PM
#10
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 912