Mark99GT

Is anything special required to make 2v windsor heads work with a Mach I shortblock (8 bolt forged crank)?

kylebgt

First off, why would you want to do such a thing?
I would kill for a mach1 engine, just get a head and you have a killer N/A engine.
Also there are some minor diffs between windsor and romeo engine. I would study up on them before doing the install.

Davojan59

well maybe he just has the shortblock....im pretty sure it will work as long as ur old engine was a windsor, cause they have the 8 bolt crank and u will need the flywheel that went with the 8 bolt crank. Dont quote me on this though...

2000GT4.6

I thuoght the coolant passages didn't line up?

The mach 1 shortblock is not any better than a GT shortblock unless it came out of a 5speed, and then it only has a forged crank (still weak *** rods/pistons)

Davojan59

yea im not too familiar with the coolant passages but either way hes right that block isnt all that great...unless ur just getting the bare block and putting forged rotating assembly in it. be more specific

Aixtreme89

I beleive it will work, thats the same block used on the explorer 2v's. I think thats a great idea. You will take off 80lbs off the front of your car buy using an aluminum block. Also the manual transmission mach 1's came with a forged 8 bolt crank and the automatic versons came with a cast 6 bolt crank. I see alot of 6 bolt short and long blocks.

Mark99GT

Its out of a 5 sp mach, 8 bolt crank. Ive got a windsor motor.

I need to do it because I have a spun bearing and need a new short block. If I go with the heads and everything else Im looking at well over 2k to get this done. Im not willing to spend that kind of money, or deal with the headache of getting all of the parts.

I think its a good idea as long as everything will work. Its got the forged crank for extra revs and its about the same price as a used GT short block. I know it wont handle any more power than a GT sb, but im not worried about that. I just want my car up and running

So does anyone know for sure about the coolant passages and timing equipment?

Ive been posting about this on other boards. Looks like the compression ratio would be close to 11:1!!! Can you even run 93 octane with that?

droptoppony

I think its a direct swap...i have 2V windor heads on a Teksid and i had to drill open 1 coolant passage to make it work but i don't think the newer aluminum blocks require that. Your timing chains etc should all swap over. The only thing i had to change in that area was the mounting pins for the tensioners etc. On my iron block they were dowels and on my aluminum block they were screw in or was it the other way around? sorry its been awhile since i played with it. The man to talk to is Randy Stinchcolm over on www.modulardepot.com he will know exactly what extra parts you will need. He can be found in the Ford parts section there.
Also about the compression...you will be ok as long as you use 93 and back your timing off some. A dynotune would be best.

JD1969

Just because it has a forged crank does not mean you get more revs out of it. You still have the weak rods and pistons. Plus the the RPM capibilty of and engine has more to do with the cam and valve train than anything else.

Mark99GT

Yeah youre right. I was also considering p&ping the heads while they're off and doing springs and cams (VT stage II n/a) for it to work. I don't know if id have PTV issues doing that though.

droptoppony: thanks for the info ill look over there...