04mineralgreyGT

You say your on a limited budget. Thats why not to go KB. If you want lots of power that is. You can get the base non-intercooled KB 5-9 psi for about 3800-4000 bucks and get 350-370rwhp (based on KB's site dyno graphs). Or you can go for the intercooled 6-14psi KB and drop 5000 + and get 4-500rwhp or more. You can get a vortech with 8-10psi for about 3600 bucks non-aftercooled and get 360-390rwhp depending on other mods. And you can get a complete procharger kit 8psi intercooled for anywhere inbetween 3600-4300 bucks (depending on where you get it and what upgrades you opt for) and get about the same rwhp yields as a vortech. I went with Procharger because of the intercooler that was included in the kit and the head unit is self contained (vortech guys will chastize me for those reasons) meaning I don't have to run oil lines to the oil pan. If you want the biggest bang for your buck go with a 125 hp shot of nitrous. KB isn't necessarily a better system (some may beg to differ) its just a different system that delivers its boost way down low which is why in my opinion doesn't make for a vehicle I would want to have as a daily driver. Whereas the centrifugal systems will deliver their boost power higher up in the rpms (around 3000 rpm) which to me would better suit city driving and everyday driving for that matter. It's all about preference and what you want your car to do.

Scjar

So with the intercooled KB you could put 400-500 rwhp on the stock engine?

04mineralgreyGT

Technically, yes but I wouldn't do it. 450 rwhp is all you'd want to take your stock rotating assembly to before you're asking for trouble. All the info is on KB's website. I researched all the major brands before I bought my blower. I spent about 6 hours reading and re-reading KB's info and dynographs, etc. Like I said before, its all in what you want out of your car. Check these dynographs...

http://www.kennebell.net/supercharge...2v/gt96-04.htm

Scjar

Yeah I have been looking all over the KB website. I think I have decided against it mainly for less constant stress on the engine since it boosts low. Which type is the Mongoose? (sorry for my stupidity).[/align][/align]I have a little bit it think it over still. I still need to save up, and have other mods I would like to get first.[/align]

04mineralgreyGT

Its a vortech SQ kit.

jacrockett

Time for a little lesson in how twin-screws work. Max boost for a given installation is based on pulley size. When you stand on the gas (WOT), you are at maximum boost in less than .5 sec, regardless of where your rpm's are at the time. That is the "down low" boost the twin-screw owners love so much.... which gives you waaaaaay more torque imediately (if you ask for it)

What you seem to be missing is what happens when you're not at WOT. At 1500 rpm and below, not WOT, the blower's bypass valve is engaged, so there is virtually no boost, and no parasitic losses. As far as your motor is concearned, the blower isn't even there. I have about 14# vaccuum in this condition. Half-throttle at 2500 rpm, I'm up to no vaccuum (0# boost). Boost #'s ramp up gradually as you give it more throttle (e.g. 2/3 trottle gives me about 1/2 my maximum boost #).Boost kicks in as smoothly as your foot asks it to.

When I got my first twin-screw, I was kinda scared about drivability. The only thing I needed to learn was being carefull about WOT through the gear shifts (I have an AOD tranny). I got sideways more than once, spinning my tires @ 50mph shifting into 2nd at WOT.

sarNz

well i dont think im the only one wondering, how much would it cost to build your engine? what would that include and how much it would be for parts, seperately from an install? also, if you have a built motor and a kenne bell, would it still be a bad daily driver?

Scjar

[/align][/align]You just made my decision hard again =P[/align]

jacrockett

First thing is to try to decide where you want to end up; power wise. In the beginning, I had no idea how addicted to power I was going to be. I could have saved many thousands of dollars if I had know then what I know now. For a daily driver, up to 400rwhp you are in one cost category, above that is aVERY different world, with big $$ required to last very long in it. Others will argue that the threshold is at a little higher, but the point is that as soon as you exceed what the stock block can hold on a "safe" tune, everything changes in terms of cost.

Take what you read on the KB website with a BIG grain of salt. They don't run pump gas in their 10# (and up) boost examples. They spend days doing dyno pull after dyno pull, to eek out the numbers they publish. They aren't running anything close to a daily driver tune either. The stuff published by KB is what led me to believe the bullsh#t I was fed by the first shop I worked with. That mistake cost me over $15k.... a painful lesson learned.

Twin-screw blowers are perfect for my application, and KB has very nice hardware. However, be advised that the 2v manifold and the 4v manifolds are very different. Once you start down the 2v path, it is very expensive to get off. This is not a problem if 400rwhp is enough for you (that is a lot of power on the street). If you want to be stronger than Vipers, new Z06's, or the GT500, or mildly modified Terminators, the 2v Modular motor will NEVER get there with DD reliability and/or Nitrous.

Scjar

The only thing that scares me is putting so much power in a vert. Have you had any close calls yet?