Rear Defrost
01-13-2007, 03:26 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Texas
Posts: 430
Rear Defrost
I have a convertible and on both sides of the window are wires attached to a metal clip thatconnects tothe window. Well one of themetal clipsbroke off.The clip is still whole and everything, it's just whatever was holding it up there broke.Almost looks like it was welded. What do i need to "weld" it back on? Hope i'm making sense.
01-13-2007, 05:05 PM
#5
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: San Marcos, TX
Posts: 916
RE: Rear Defrost
googled this:
If you know how to solder and have a 200-watt soldering gun or iron, you can solder the terminals back on to the defroster grid. A third hand is very handy in doing this so get the spouse to come out and help you for a while. Most times there is a metal backing strip below the silk screening and attached to the glass. Clean the area well, alcohol works best, and use 60-40 rosin core solder. DO NOT USE ACID CORE SOLDER!! It will eat away all the metal parts over time and leave you with nothing. Make sure your soldering gun or iron is hot before you solder the terminals. Work as quickly as you can to keep the glass from getting too hot and possibly cracking. If you don't think you have the soldering skills necessary or are just afraid of cracking a very expensive window, there is an alternative. Some dealers and larger auto parts stores sell a special electrically conductive epoxy to glue the defroster terminals back on. If it's cold out, you'll need to work in a garage that is heated and the whole car warmed up to above 65° F. To do this with the epoxy you need to clean the area, again, alcohol works best. Using tape, mask off the area so you don't get epoxy where you don't want it. Read the package directions and mix up a small amount of the hardener and epoxy. You don't need a lot for this. Now put a little epoxy on the defroster grid and a little on the bottom of the terminal. Place it in position and use a toothpick to hold it in place until the epoxy sets up. This usually takes about 10 or 15 minutes or so. You can dampen the end of your finger with water and move the epoxy around to make it look better if you want. If you do this you have to do it in the first minute or two or forget it.
Looks like I'm going to pick up some of this conductive epoxy
If you know how to solder and have a 200-watt soldering gun or iron, you can solder the terminals back on to the defroster grid. A third hand is very handy in doing this so get the spouse to come out and help you for a while. Most times there is a metal backing strip below the silk screening and attached to the glass. Clean the area well, alcohol works best, and use 60-40 rosin core solder. DO NOT USE ACID CORE SOLDER!! It will eat away all the metal parts over time and leave you with nothing. Make sure your soldering gun or iron is hot before you solder the terminals. Work as quickly as you can to keep the glass from getting too hot and possibly cracking. If you don't think you have the soldering skills necessary or are just afraid of cracking a very expensive window, there is an alternative. Some dealers and larger auto parts stores sell a special electrically conductive epoxy to glue the defroster terminals back on. If it's cold out, you'll need to work in a garage that is heated and the whole car warmed up to above 65° F. To do this with the epoxy you need to clean the area, again, alcohol works best. Using tape, mask off the area so you don't get epoxy where you don't want it. Read the package directions and mix up a small amount of the hardener and epoxy. You don't need a lot for this. Now put a little epoxy on the defroster grid and a little on the bottom of the terminal. Place it in position and use a toothpick to hold it in place until the epoxy sets up. This usually takes about 10 or 15 minutes or so. You can dampen the end of your finger with water and move the epoxy around to make it look better if you want. If you do this you have to do it in the first minute or two or forget it.
Looks like I'm going to pick up some of this conductive epoxy
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