Window tint
02-09-2007, 02:10 PM
#1
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
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Posts: 350
Window tint
I just bought a window tinting kit and was wondering if anyone had any advice? I heard some where that if you spray the windows with soap and water that tint will go on much easier and it'll be easy to get the bubbles out. Any advice would be awsome.
Matt
Matt
02-09-2007, 02:29 PM
#2
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 248
RE: Window tint
If you know anybody that does tint for a living. call them and have them tint your windows with you so you can watch and learn. If you dont, take it to a shop and ask them if you can watch and learn. If nobody lets you watch and learn, just pay them to do it. Alot of people that tint windows in their garage for the first time mess it up somehow. The tint will crank, bubbles will somehow find their way in, and it turns purple. It shouldnt be that much to have a pro do it for you.
02-09-2007, 03:29 PM
#4
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location:
Posts: 1,959
RE: Window tint
i just started tinting and its not that hard clean the windows fisrt then spray the outside window with sopy water then put the tint on the outside and cut it to the outside edges of the window spray the inside window peel the stcky part off the clear side put it up use somthing rubber to smoth it out and get the bubbles out then trim it up. Hope that helps.
02-09-2007, 03:40 PM
#6
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Vegas
Posts: 5,361
RE: Window tint
ORIGINAL: BAD FN GT
Spend the $ to get it done. I've never seen a DIY kit that didn't look like ***...
Spend the $ to get it done. I've never seen a DIY kit that didn't look like ***...
02-09-2007, 04:08 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jul 2003
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Posts: 14,917
RE: Window tint
I've tinted several times for myself & friends. You really got yourself in a big ol' mess with no experience.
You will need SEVERAL exacto blades, as they are easier to hold than razor blades for the inexperienced.
Exacto Blades
Razor Blades
Heat Gun
Scotch Tape
Squeegee
You will need to take your window tint solution and SOAK your window, take the razor blade and scrape down your windows. Do it several times & also clean your window seals VERY well. Give your windows one last soaking & scrape them down again. Clean the outside of your windows also. Take your window tint & place it on the outside of the window. Work the bubbles out, trim the bottom edge of the tint to the BOTTOM of the window seal as this will be tucked down into the window seal when applied. Work the bubbles out from the CENTER of the window & out. You do not need to get all the bubbles out in this step, but do your best & do it quickly. If you are brave, use a heat gun on low heat to lightly shape the window tint to the outside of your window, don't melt it, just gently heat it so it conforms to the window. In the end this heat gun step will make everything much easier. Trim the window tint to the shape of your window, leave about a 1/4 inch all around the side & top of the window. Clean a spot on the hood of your car, take 2 pieces of scotch tape and place them in the same corner on opposite sides, peel them to seperate the protective sheet from the tint. Be careful as it's very difficult to handle the tint. As you are peeling the tint, spray it down heavily so if you slip, you will not destroy your tint.
Use your solution to SOAK the window you will be applying the tint to. Make sure your tint is EXTREMELYwet. There are 2 ways to carry the tint, grab it in opposite corners and struggle to get it on the window without picking up dust/dirt/lint from your door panel, or REALLY soak the tint and quickly roll it up & 'roll' it onto the window. This is the most effective way, but if you do not soak the tint well it enough & work quick enough - it will stick to itself and ruin your tint. You need to be extremely careful in all of these steps that you do not pinch, crease or put pressure on any area of the tint until it's on your window. It's very hard to notice defects in the tint until it is on your windows, it can be very very frustrating.
Once you have the tint rolled onto the window, quickly work the bottom of the tint down into the seal of the window. It's best to completely remove this seal before hand if you can, but if not you will have to work quickly & not ruin your tint. Take your squeegee or tint card & work the bubbles out from the center of the window to all corners. Once you have all the bubbles out, start working on the fingers. Once you get to the finger stage, you can trim your window tint to the glass now - get it as close to the glass as possible, but don't make this your final trim. Work the fingers out, with some persistance you should be able to work them all out, if not keep working the finger with LOW heat from your heat gun. Once you have removed all the fingers, you can now do your final trim. You should trim the tint about 3/8ths down from the edge of the glass. You need to make sure your razor blade is very sharp, otherwise it will hang up on the tint & peel off your masterpiece.
As for the back window, I can give you advice. I've done several before and believe me, they are a headache & a half. But with some experience with different heat shrinking methods, you'll do okay. IMO, do the front windows yourself & pay to have your rear window done. The rear window is a one-shot deal unless you can remove it within a couple days, otherwise it's difficult to remove without damaging your defroster lines. I don't want to type everything out now, but if you need help just ask and I will give you a hand.
You will need SEVERAL exacto blades, as they are easier to hold than razor blades for the inexperienced.
Exacto Blades
Razor Blades
Heat Gun
Scotch Tape
Squeegee
You will need to take your window tint solution and SOAK your window, take the razor blade and scrape down your windows. Do it several times & also clean your window seals VERY well. Give your windows one last soaking & scrape them down again. Clean the outside of your windows also. Take your window tint & place it on the outside of the window. Work the bubbles out, trim the bottom edge of the tint to the BOTTOM of the window seal as this will be tucked down into the window seal when applied. Work the bubbles out from the CENTER of the window & out. You do not need to get all the bubbles out in this step, but do your best & do it quickly. If you are brave, use a heat gun on low heat to lightly shape the window tint to the outside of your window, don't melt it, just gently heat it so it conforms to the window. In the end this heat gun step will make everything much easier. Trim the window tint to the shape of your window, leave about a 1/4 inch all around the side & top of the window. Clean a spot on the hood of your car, take 2 pieces of scotch tape and place them in the same corner on opposite sides, peel them to seperate the protective sheet from the tint. Be careful as it's very difficult to handle the tint. As you are peeling the tint, spray it down heavily so if you slip, you will not destroy your tint.
Use your solution to SOAK the window you will be applying the tint to. Make sure your tint is EXTREMELYwet. There are 2 ways to carry the tint, grab it in opposite corners and struggle to get it on the window without picking up dust/dirt/lint from your door panel, or REALLY soak the tint and quickly roll it up & 'roll' it onto the window. This is the most effective way, but if you do not soak the tint well it enough & work quick enough - it will stick to itself and ruin your tint. You need to be extremely careful in all of these steps that you do not pinch, crease or put pressure on any area of the tint until it's on your window. It's very hard to notice defects in the tint until it is on your windows, it can be very very frustrating.
Once you have the tint rolled onto the window, quickly work the bottom of the tint down into the seal of the window. It's best to completely remove this seal before hand if you can, but if not you will have to work quickly & not ruin your tint. Take your squeegee or tint card & work the bubbles out from the center of the window to all corners. Once you have all the bubbles out, start working on the fingers. Once you get to the finger stage, you can trim your window tint to the glass now - get it as close to the glass as possible, but don't make this your final trim. Work the fingers out, with some persistance you should be able to work them all out, if not keep working the finger with LOW heat from your heat gun. Once you have removed all the fingers, you can now do your final trim. You should trim the tint about 3/8ths down from the edge of the glass. You need to make sure your razor blade is very sharp, otherwise it will hang up on the tint & peel off your masterpiece.
As for the back window, I can give you advice. I've done several before and believe me, they are a headache & a half. But with some experience with different heat shrinking methods, you'll do okay. IMO, do the front windows yourself & pay to have your rear window done. The rear window is a one-shot deal unless you can remove it within a couple days, otherwise it's difficult to remove without damaging your defroster lines. I don't want to type everything out now, but if you need help just ask and I will give you a hand.
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