randyg

Let me explain what happened, TOB began to seize up on input shaft. I had to drive it for a while until I got a new King Cobra kit, but by the time I fixed it, the TOB broke in two. Because the TOB was frozen on the shaft, I had to put extreme pressure on the clutch pedal to get it into gear. I ended up stripping all the teeth on the stock quadrant adjuster gear, which caused the factory adjuster to go all the way up, causing my clutch pedal to engage after pushing the pedal down about a half inch from the top. I bought the 3 piece UPR kit, but kept the stock cable on. I didn't even take the stock cable off the fork, I just mounted the adjustable quadrant, then slid the cable through the firewall adjuster, and tightened it up or out, but it still catches at the top of the pedal. If I tighten it up more, then it makes the pedal tighter to push down but it still releases the clutch at the very top. Any ideas what's wrong?

cliffyk

Sure--you need to loosen, not tighten,the cable adjustment (more pedal free play) to have the clutch engage/disengage closer to the floorboard...

2000GT4.6

Its bad if the clutch is not fully engaging, but you don't want the clutch to only engage/disengage on the floor either.

So long as the clutch is all the way out and engaged having it do so at nearly the top of the pedal movement IMO is better than near the floor.

cliffyk

[/align][/align]This is true, as long as there is some free play. The original poster made reference to the pedal being "tighter to push down", which I interpret as there being little to no free play--this is bad as it will keep the throwout bearing loaded which will lead to premature failure. Most properly adjusted clutches will have some free play, 3/8" to 3/4" on some cars (typically those with hydraulically actuated clutches), and will engage/disengage somewhere in the top 2/3rd to 3/4qtr of the total pedal travel. [/align]