From 0-30 best mods to jump off line? Also.. read (rpms,etc)
10-31-2004, 01:18 AM
#15
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Join Date: Apr 2004
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Posts: 9,172
RE: From 0-30 best mods to jump off line? Also.. read (rpms,etc)
ORIGINAL: Valek
Can you use the Predator to adjust the timing?
Can you use the Predator to adjust the timing?
The preditor only lets you go 2 degrees either way though. The Steeda timing adjuster only serves one purpose but it allows you to go 10 degrees either way.
10-31-2004, 02:31 AM
#16
Join Date: Oct 2004
Posts: 33
RE: From 0-30 best mods to jump off line? Also.. read (rpms,etc)
a torque converter or stall converter is the device inbetween the engine and transmission.
the converter is bolter to the flywheel and the input shaft of the tranny slides in the opening of the converter.
the converter looks like a big round doughnut. except heavier, thicker, and a smaller hold that has about a 2.5"hollow shaft coming out of it.
a converter fills with hydraulic fluid (tranny fluid) and while the engine is running (then put in drive) the tranny input shaft enguages into the converter and it starts to spin the shaft.
from the factor, you'll notic that if you slowly press the throttle while holding the brakes you start to move and NO MORE than 1500rpm (or you start to breakstand).
by upgrading to a high stall converter, it takes more hydraulic pressure to spin the fins in the converter (they are filled with a gear shaper wheel with paddle fins on em) and the less fins, the more RPM it takes to spin it to creat engough pressure to move the car.
by doing so you may beable to hold the brakes and stall the vehicle egine to redline/higher. (you can get stalls from stock 1800rom all the way to like 12,000), esentially, stalling the car will basically have the same effect of and N drop or dropping the clutch...with little to no reprocussions....but when you install one, a transcooler is also reccomended.
for street and strip, 2500-2800 is generally good. while driving around, the transmission will SLIP until the stall peak is reached.
lets say u buy a 2800 stall....it will only actually stall to about 2500 (depending on weight and power of vehicle), the tranny will slip until that rpm is reached and dont even plan on having a crusing rpm less than that of your stall....
this is how easy it is to change:
buy a new converter, jack up your car, unbolt the driveshaft, unbolt the tranny crossmember, unbolt the transmission, pull the tranny back (or drop straight down, unbolt the stock converter from the flywheel(well, in an auto, its technically called the flexplate), pour about 1qt of trnny fld into the new converter, bolt new converter to flexplate (3 bolts), grease the input shaft on the tansmission with trny fld, slid the transmission into place and secure input shaft in converter, bolt up tranny, bolt up crossmember to tranny, bolt on driveshaft, check fluid levels of transmission (because converters take less or more fluid depending on stall)..and now good job all done.
if me and my buddy do it.....3hrs MAX if we encounter problems. for a 1st timer.....8hrs......its a very easy job, but its not always easy to get everything in place...it'll take you about 1hrs to have the tranny out...maybe 2. even for 1st timers.
when you change it, make sure you tape off the yolks on the driveshaft, and once the converter is on...tighten it to specs. it will come with aninstallation infromation sheet.....
any more questions?
p.s. if anyone needs any info on the mechanics or eletrical of engines (most engines) just gimme an email
isaiah_49_03@yahoo.com
i have a 450hp 1970 chevelle for a drag car, and have just recently turned to ford for a quick, nice, daily driver. i know some about motorcycles and snowmobiles too. but as far as building engines, between me and my buddies...call us th guru's.
then again, not import engines....we can build em, but we did not say we can make em run....lol!!!!!!!!!
the converter is bolter to the flywheel and the input shaft of the tranny slides in the opening of the converter.
the converter looks like a big round doughnut. except heavier, thicker, and a smaller hold that has about a 2.5"hollow shaft coming out of it.
a converter fills with hydraulic fluid (tranny fluid) and while the engine is running (then put in drive) the tranny input shaft enguages into the converter and it starts to spin the shaft.
from the factor, you'll notic that if you slowly press the throttle while holding the brakes you start to move and NO MORE than 1500rpm (or you start to breakstand).
by upgrading to a high stall converter, it takes more hydraulic pressure to spin the fins in the converter (they are filled with a gear shaper wheel with paddle fins on em) and the less fins, the more RPM it takes to spin it to creat engough pressure to move the car.
by doing so you may beable to hold the brakes and stall the vehicle egine to redline/higher. (you can get stalls from stock 1800rom all the way to like 12,000), esentially, stalling the car will basically have the same effect of and N drop or dropping the clutch...with little to no reprocussions....but when you install one, a transcooler is also reccomended.
for street and strip, 2500-2800 is generally good. while driving around, the transmission will SLIP until the stall peak is reached.
lets say u buy a 2800 stall....it will only actually stall to about 2500 (depending on weight and power of vehicle), the tranny will slip until that rpm is reached and dont even plan on having a crusing rpm less than that of your stall....
this is how easy it is to change:
buy a new converter, jack up your car, unbolt the driveshaft, unbolt the tranny crossmember, unbolt the transmission, pull the tranny back (or drop straight down, unbolt the stock converter from the flywheel(well, in an auto, its technically called the flexplate), pour about 1qt of trnny fld into the new converter, bolt new converter to flexplate (3 bolts), grease the input shaft on the tansmission with trny fld, slid the transmission into place and secure input shaft in converter, bolt up tranny, bolt up crossmember to tranny, bolt on driveshaft, check fluid levels of transmission (because converters take less or more fluid depending on stall)..and now good job all done.
if me and my buddy do it.....3hrs MAX if we encounter problems. for a 1st timer.....8hrs......its a very easy job, but its not always easy to get everything in place...it'll take you about 1hrs to have the tranny out...maybe 2. even for 1st timers.
when you change it, make sure you tape off the yolks on the driveshaft, and once the converter is on...tighten it to specs. it will come with aninstallation infromation sheet.....
any more questions?
p.s. if anyone needs any info on the mechanics or eletrical of engines (most engines) just gimme an email
isaiah_49_03@yahoo.com
i have a 450hp 1970 chevelle for a drag car, and have just recently turned to ford for a quick, nice, daily driver. i know some about motorcycles and snowmobiles too. but as far as building engines, between me and my buddies...call us th guru's.
then again, not import engines....we can build em, but we did not say we can make em run....lol!!!!!!!!!
) and a shift kit... UD's and timing adjusters are cheaper, but less effective.
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