clix813

Im going to change my spark plugs this week and was wondering which onesI should go with. Also this is a first time im doing this to this car my self and looking at the car I have to remove the fuel rail and was wondering what was the best way to depresurize the fuel system.

DSTANG03

you shouldnt have to remove the fuel rail its tight but they will come out

NORMAN99

Denzo plugs are awesome!!!

98blackgtinsc

i have denso iridiums but for the money they're not that good I have been told just go with motorsport plugs theyre cheap and what the engine was built to work with, just my .02

blownbayou

NGK TR55 (or the TR5 just gotta gap them to spec)is the plug to use on these mod motors....I have them in my Mustang and my Lightning (TR6). Changing the plugs is a snap. Here is a list of tools you will need...

7mm socket or nut driver (for coil pack bolts)
4-5 inch extension (I put about three regular ones together)
5/8 Plug Socket (of course)
Plug Gapper
Anti Sieze
Torque wrench (optional)

Quick how to:

Start with the rear passenger side (hardest side if there is a hard part). Unplug harness from COP. Unscrew the one hex screw holding the coil pack in. Pull pack out and procedd to loosen the plug. Inspect old plug for signs that need to be addressed. Gap new plug and put a small amount of anti sieze on the threads. Hand tighten and torque to specs (or snug it if you do not have a Torque wrench). Attach COP and plug harness back in.

You will probably have to remove the inlet air boot and some of the PCV lines (long, glossy black line) to get to the next ones but no biggie there.

Hope this helps you out

Later

yelw02GT

i use bosh platnum +4s niiicee

97targa

You want to stay away from the Iridium plugs as they are good only for efficiency and economy! They will blow apart and melt if you add any boost like a supercharger or nitrous. They just run too hot. A good plug hands down for just basic mods would be NGK TR-6 and gap them at .035 for a basic bolt-on car with no power adders. The TR5's are too cold of a plug for a bolt-on car and would cause some pinging and unburned fuel runing very rich and possible hard starts! The TR5's are awesome for S/C'ed and N20 application with a gap of .030.
No furl rail removal is necessary. If you are doing a plug change you may want to do a compression test.It's very easy. Plug the fitting in the spark plug hole and unhook the harnesses off of the coil packs. that allows the engine not to start so you can crank it over to create pressure on the meter

Colorado_Mustang

Stock? Just go with OEM replacements.

kenv

I have been told that you should not even think of replacing the plugs without the use of a torque wrench due to the fact that there are only about three threads holding the plugs in the heads. If you don`t torque them to exact specs, you run the possibility of having them blow right out of the heads taking the threads with them, or if they are tightened too much- the next time you remove them, the threads will come with them. Either way it will become a very expensive plug change.

FDNYBullitt

You don't need to remove the fuel rails at all, its not that tricky. After you remove the coils be sure to blow out the holes BEFORE removing the plugs to get all of the dirt out of there.Go with the stock Motorcraft plugs, I have removed SOOO many other brands from cars that had an idle miss or a crusing miss etc etc and almost every time its the plugs. These motors just seem to like them. By all means, use a torque wrench