jst854

hey guys I am considering getting a nitrous kit within the next year, but have a few questions.
I have a 96 with around 97000 miles on it. Is it safe to spray a motor with this amount of miles on it. Also how much is it to fill your bottle, where do you fill them. I am just looking to get some more power with out spending a fortune. Is it hard to install? Any other information?

mb7756

I wanted spray until I found out that you have to get a custom CPU tune, new low-temp plugs, a bottle heater/cooler, and other safety equipment which pushes the cost over $1.1K. My pal ran it with a basic kit in his Subaru 2.5RS and got great results, but if you don't buy the extra stuff you risk blowing the intake manifold with nitrous backfires.

Quick Shot xMLx

I bought my setup used with bottle warmer/purge/window switch/fuel pressure safety switch for $700 and some people have gotten it for cheaper. The NGK plugs are only $16 for 8. You'll need some kind of tune with any real power adder so that's common sense.

If the motor is in good condition it'll be perfectly fine with a 75-100 shot.

mb7756

My pal had trouble running multiple 1/4's in a rowwithout a heater because the pressure would drop too low since the bottle gets colder after each run( less nitrous goes to the engine with lower bottle temps) and if the temp gets too high...well..that's just dangerous. The colder plugs reduce the chance of detonation, and without a custom tune (like retarding timing) you could blow the intake up.Plus the kits don't usually come with pressure gauges.

mb7756

Another thing...refilling the bottle is easy at any local race shop but itgets expensive. I don't have any idea how much it currently costs to fill a 10lb bottle, but my pal spent like $35-$40 a fill up 3 years ago. 10lb bottles don't last that long, either.

jst854

i dont think the bottle heater would be that big of an issue as i would not be using it that much espically back to back, so besides just the nitrous i would need cooler plugs and add a pressue guage to watch the intake pressure?

mb7756

For the lowest cost setup while being safe, I would get colder spark plugsplugs (cheap if you can install them yourself), a bottle purge system (so the bottle doesn't blow up if it's left in a really hot car and is full- not sure if this has ever happened or not, but it probably could) and a custom car cpu tune to retard timing. The custom tune is probaby the most important, because this will help prevent the dredded 'nitrous backfire'. You can see videos of this if you look for them (don't know if any URL's off hand). I saw one of a cobra on a dyno on spray and the intake manifold blew up along with some other engine parts. The bottle heater and other safety gear isn't as important as the plugs, purge, and tune. If you get those three things, you should be safe while getting some massive horsepower. Nitrous backfires happen when you have a 'wet' system and fuel pools in the intake manifold. Don't know how much a custom tune costs, but if I had to guess I'd say between $100 and $200 at a local race shop.

uofipilot

Nitrous oxide is a non-flamable gas, so I dont think that the bottle would really blow up (maybe if the pressure got REALLY high, but I still dont think so). People heat up bottles with propane torches, so I dont think that would happen.

Quick Shot xMLx

The purge is just to release the nitrous that was left in the lines. It's basically useless and only for looks.

For a bare bones kit pick up a wet shot, fuel pressure safety switch, and get it dyno tuned. If you already have a hand-held tuner you could just retard the timing but I would still reccomend a dyno run. The bottle warmer is suggested since running a low bottle pressure(anything<900-1000) will not produce nearly as much power as possible.

jst854

so what is the basic difference between wet and dry. I read somewhere that wet is better for modded engines while a dry shot is better for stock, like myself. I also read that a dry shot does not produce the risk of blowing the intake? Is this correct?