DragonOfBC

Hey all. I've been trying to do as much reading as possible and I've come up with my parts list purchase. I wanted to get some opinions on it. A little backstory here: I bought the mustang but the longer I had it, the more disappointed I was. I felt that the car drove a bit too "boaty" (only word I can think of to describe it). I know that mustangs aren't well known for being a stock corner carver but the car made me nervous, especially driving in the rain. I just always felt like I was going to lose the rear out from under me. It's mostly paranoia on my part because I was in an accident last year where I lost control of my Eclipse GSX on some ice and totaled it, no fault of my own. It's just made me a little skittish when driving in less than perfect conditions, you know.

Anyway, I was going to sell the mustang and pick up a Z06. I spent a lot of time doing research though on this site and I figure that I can get the mustang to feel "tighter" for far less than the Z06. I'd like to be out from under car payments for a while .

I've put together the following mod list and I'm planning on making a big purchase in the next week. Keep in mind that the car probably will never see the track. I drive it only a few times a week but I live in Boston where the road are crap.

Strange shocks/struts - from modularpowerhouse
UPR 2700-1 Comp Proseries springs - from THR
Grenatelli UCA/LCA - from eBay
MAC 2.5" cat-back- from AmericanMuscle
FRPP 4.10 gears - from AmericanMuscle

I have a buddy that works at a Ford dealership that said he could adjust the computer to fix the speedo for the 4.10 gears which is why I'm not not thinking of getting a tuner or speedcal. I plan on doing all of the suspension work myself and having my Ford buddy put in the exhaust and gears.

Will I be happy with the set-up? Is there anything you would change if you were me? I'm not really looking to maximize hp or have a car that can outhandle an evolution. I'm just looking to get rid of the "boaty" feel and make the ride a bit more fun. I'm also not looking to spend too much more than what I've priced out out for the parts above but if there are any parts that are a substantial increase in quality for a reasonable increase in price, I'd be willing to splurge.

01GT4.6

1) I didn't know that stange made shock/ struts to help a car handle tighter (I'm probably wrong though.) I hear the Bilstiens are great, so I would consider them as well.
2) as you see I skipped #2 in the quote. If you are looking for the car to handle better... dont forget subframe connectors, sway bars, and maybe a panhard bar.
3)I wouldn't get UPR springs (I love UPR stuff) but haven't heard much about their springs, look into H&R's
4)GMS quality sucks! Look into UPR, MM or others for UCA/LCA's
5&6)aren't going to make the car handle better but I'm sure you knew that. 4.10's will make the car alot more fun.

keep in mind I am a drag racer so my suggestion may not be dead on, but I's bet it's better than what you were looking at.

Mike

Triisomy21

If you're worried about losing the rear end from underneath you why are you going with 4.10's? It'll just make it that much easier if you're not careful.

majinprodigy

for then less perfect conditions (my own experience here) 4.10s on a stock car with springs/shocks/SFC
taking turns at 35+ with steeringwheel @ 7 and 1 oclock position you lose complete control.
accellerating from 1st-3rd running to 5k rpm the rear end slips out completely and car is all over the place but not to hard to regain control.
this is done in wet weather with 275 nittos all around.

PaintballFreak

My suggestion for you is to get the following:

MAC CB (I love mine)
4.10s (my next mod)

H&R Sports or Supersports depending on how much of a drop you're looking for (supersports will be lower and make for better handling)
mm caster/camber plates if you go with the supersports
MM LCA - better quality (UCAs aren't that necessary if you're not dragging from what I hear)
weld-in full length subframe connectors - they really make the car feel more solid
Strange 10 way adj. shocks/struts

that would be a damn good start to better suspension

racer02GTstang

for your suspension... i reccommend the MM full length weld in sub frame connectors, it will make the car feel alot more solid... with you living in boston, with the bumpy roads and such, you probably want to stick with a 1.5 inch drop... so something like eibach pro springs or like the H&R's.... and maybe even get some struts/shocks like the KYB AGX's or Tokico's. they are both good and cheap. also some lower control arms may improve handling some and help you feel the rear alittle better... although the panhard bar will probably keep it the most stable in the turns.... the car will be harder to kick out and will be more predictable.

DragonOfBC

Hey all. Thanks for the suggestions. The reason I was looking at the URP springs was because they were made by Eibach. I didn't really see the difference. If you don't think they are a good idea, I think I'll go with the Eibach Prokit. That way I get a decent drop and don't have to worry about CC plates.

I heard good things about the GMS control arms but maybe I'll look into the MM lower ones instead.I figured $180 for GMS UCAs and LCAwas pretty cheap but I guess you get what you pay for.

I was looking at the 4.10s because I'd like a little more gusto when I want it. I knowthat they are counterproductive to my suspensionquestions . Ican keep lighter on the pedal duringturns so I'm nottoo worried about any 35+ turns.

I don't mind a little jiggle on the hard accel shifts on thestraight line but I figure that having the LCAs andthe 275s will mitigate that. I'd love to know if I'm wrong about that. I don't wantto get the car to the pointwhere I can't feel good about flooring it fora rush every once in awhile.

I have a vert so I know the car has SFCs but are those pretty much crap?Every postsuggests the connectors.

I'm not looking for super performance in what I'm getting. The car will never be taken to a track and probably will never go to a drag strip. I'd like it to be able to hold its own from a stoplight and be there when I want it when I'm playing around on the highway. I also just don't want the car to feel like its floating. I was hoping shocks/struts springs would do that but you all seem to think otherwise. Maybe I'll start with those, see how it feels and add later. Or is it better to do everything at once?

M1ke

ive read UPR suspension products sucks. definitely get maximum motorpsorts FULL length subframe connectors. mine are getting welded in soon. The mustang unibody is very flexible.

DragonOfBC

The full length subframe connectors are not that expensive it seems. Where would I go to get something like that installed?

Also, Racer02Stang: Is there any reason you'd suggest the KYBs or the Tokicos instead of the Strange shocks/struts? Everyone with Strange ones seems to love them and they are pretty cheap ($380 for the whole set).

What about the UPR LCAs? I saw those on the THR post about how they ran 12s with minimal mods. I can't seem to find them anywhere though. I definitely don't doubt the quality of MM because they seem to have the best stuff. Just looking for a cheaper yet quality alternative.

DragonOfBC

Sorry for the double post but what about the Ford "C" springs? Will they be any better than stock for handling purposes? Will there be a noticable drop at all? I've seen them advertised as a ~1" drop but would it be slightly more since the vert is a bit heavier? I'm only asking because the diff. in price between the Eibach Prokit and the Ford springs would let me get the MM subframe connectors now.