CAR DOES NOT RUN STILL??
06-05-2007, 04:21 AM
#31
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Nashville/Knoxville, Tennessee
Posts: 4,687
RE: CAR DOES NOT RUN STILL??
i have a sct 4 bank chip...
i just black bar'ed my car and hit 102.... we have a way of telling how fast each other cars compare to eachother and how its running that day and practicing racing and such... well at a stop sign, the black bar is alittle over a 1/8 mile from the stop sign. i cleaned my maf, air filter, and changed the fuel filter. before i did all that the car was doing 93 which my friends C5 vette does.
[:@] i still shoot something out the tail pipe and i have some white smoke which im sure is fuel. i put my leg right behind my exhuast. and it puts out tons of black watery specs which smell like fuel. so im guessing the car maybe isnt burning all the fuel. hopefully the accel coils fix that.
i just black bar'ed my car and hit 102.... we have a way of telling how fast each other cars compare to eachother and how its running that day and practicing racing and such... well at a stop sign, the black bar is alittle over a 1/8 mile from the stop sign. i cleaned my maf, air filter, and changed the fuel filter. before i did all that the car was doing 93 which my friends C5 vette does.
[:@] i still shoot something out the tail pipe and i have some white smoke which im sure is fuel. i put my leg right behind my exhuast. and it puts out tons of black watery specs which smell like fuel. so im guessing the car maybe isnt burning all the fuel. hopefully the accel coils fix that. 
06-05-2007, 04:27 AM
#32
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: United States
Posts: 12,575
RE: CAR DOES NOT RUN STILL??
Hold on a sec.
lets get this straight, you rebuilt the entire engine, with a differn't compression ratio, big cams, ported heads etc etc on a FI car no less, and your running around racing people WITHOUT getting it on a dyno and checking the air/fuel ratio.
After all this, it starts blowing white smoke and running like **** (and your STILL running around racing with it) and you don't know what happened?????
Seriously, never, ever, ever, ever EVER get on a FI car that has had anything but the MOST minor changes done (like a catback) before at least checking the a/f ratio and having it on a dyno. Not only do you check a/f, but its easyer to detect detonation or any other problems, and if there are major power dips etc you know theres a problem.
its less than 100 bucks to just get a dyno with a/f ratio... its suicide without it. Even running super rich can screw stuff up... get to the shop!
And STOP driving it hard until you do. your crazy man, something like 8K+ in your motor and your driving the hell out of it with no check!!?!??!?!?
Find a new tuner, the Lmaf is good to WAY past 375 WHP. I am running mine at 420~, hell the stock lightnings make more than 375 WHP....
lets get this straight, you rebuilt the entire engine, with a differn't compression ratio, big cams, ported heads etc etc on a FI car no less, and your running around racing people WITHOUT getting it on a dyno and checking the air/fuel ratio.
After all this, it starts blowing white smoke and running like **** (and your STILL running around racing with it) and you don't know what happened?????
Seriously, never, ever, ever, ever EVER get on a FI car that has had anything but the MOST minor changes done (like a catback) before at least checking the a/f ratio and having it on a dyno. Not only do you check a/f, but its easyer to detect detonation or any other problems, and if there are major power dips etc you know theres a problem.
its less than 100 bucks to just get a dyno with a/f ratio... its suicide without it. Even running super rich can screw stuff up... get to the shop!
And STOP driving it hard until you do. your crazy man, something like 8K+ in your motor and your driving the hell out of it with no check!!?!??!?!?
+1... it's just rich.
Also, i'm not sure how you plan on running a lightning meter with the power youll be making; I pegged mine at like 375rwhp
Also, i'm not sure how you plan on running a lightning meter with the power youll be making; I pegged mine at like 375rwhp
06-05-2007, 05:49 AM
#33
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Nashville/Knoxville, Tennessee
Posts: 4,687
RE: CAR DOES NOT RUN STILL??
ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6
Hold on a sec.
lets get this straight, you rebuilt the entire engine, with a differn't compression ratio, big cams, ported heads etc etc on a FI car no less, and your running around racing people WITHOUT getting it on a dyno and checking the air/fuel ratio.
After all this, it starts blowing white smoke and running like **** (and your STILL running around racing with it) and you don't know what happened?????
Seriously, never, ever, ever, ever EVER get on a FI car that has had anything but the MOST minor changes done (like a catback) before at least checking the a/f ratio and having it on a dyno. Not only do you check a/f, but its easyer to detect detonation or any other problems, and if there are major power dips etc you know theres a problem.
its less than 100 bucks to just get a dyno with a/f ratio... its suicide without it. Even running super rich can screw stuff up... get to the shop!
And STOP driving it hard until you do. your crazy man, something like 8K+ in your motor and your driving the hell out of it with no check!!?!??!?!?
Find a new tuner, the Lmaf is good to WAY past 375 WHP. I am running mine at 420~, hell the stock lightnings make more than 375 WHP....
Hold on a sec.
lets get this straight, you rebuilt the entire engine, with a differn't compression ratio, big cams, ported heads etc etc on a FI car no less, and your running around racing people WITHOUT getting it on a dyno and checking the air/fuel ratio.
After all this, it starts blowing white smoke and running like **** (and your STILL running around racing with it) and you don't know what happened?????
Seriously, never, ever, ever, ever EVER get on a FI car that has had anything but the MOST minor changes done (like a catback) before at least checking the a/f ratio and having it on a dyno. Not only do you check a/f, but its easyer to detect detonation or any other problems, and if there are major power dips etc you know theres a problem.
its less than 100 bucks to just get a dyno with a/f ratio... its suicide without it. Even running super rich can screw stuff up... get to the shop!
And STOP driving it hard until you do. your crazy man, something like 8K+ in your motor and your driving the hell out of it with no check!!?!??!?!?
+1... it's just rich.
Also, i'm not sure how you plan on running a lightning meter with the power youll be making; I pegged mine at like 375rwhp
Also, i'm not sure how you plan on running a lightning meter with the power youll be making; I pegged mine at like 375rwhp
06-06-2007, 03:01 AM
#34
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: United States
Posts: 12,575
RE: CAR DOES NOT RUN STILL??
ORIGINAL: racer02GTstang
yea, car is at my house parked right now when i gave it some gas is the last time i drove it. yet the car is scheduled to get the cage in this friday so i have to drive it to my friends body shop. but currently im saving up for a fuel system so i can get it on the dyno and tuned right. ive got the truck for the next while till i get the motor going right. ive been told by mmr it could be a boost leak of some sort.
ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6
Hold on a sec.
lets get this straight, you rebuilt the entire engine, with a differn't compression ratio, big cams, ported heads etc etc on a FI car no less, and your running around racing people WITHOUT getting it on a dyno and checking the air/fuel ratio.
After all this, it starts blowing white smoke and running like **** (and your STILL running around racing with it) and you don't know what happened?????
Seriously, never, ever, ever, ever EVER get on a FI car that has had anything but the MOST minor changes done (like a catback) before at least checking the a/f ratio and having it on a dyno. Not only do you check a/f, but its easyer to detect detonation or any other problems, and if there are major power dips etc you know theres a problem.
its less than 100 bucks to just get a dyno with a/f ratio... its suicide without it. Even running super rich can screw stuff up... get to the shop!
And STOP driving it hard until you do. your crazy man, something like 8K+ in your motor and your driving the hell out of it with no check!!?!??!?!?
Find a new tuner, the Lmaf is good to WAY past 375 WHP. I am running mine at 420~, hell the stock lightnings make more than 375 WHP....
Hold on a sec.
lets get this straight, you rebuilt the entire engine, with a differn't compression ratio, big cams, ported heads etc etc on a FI car no less, and your running around racing people WITHOUT getting it on a dyno and checking the air/fuel ratio.
After all this, it starts blowing white smoke and running like **** (and your STILL running around racing with it) and you don't know what happened?????
Seriously, never, ever, ever, ever EVER get on a FI car that has had anything but the MOST minor changes done (like a catback) before at least checking the a/f ratio and having it on a dyno. Not only do you check a/f, but its easyer to detect detonation or any other problems, and if there are major power dips etc you know theres a problem.
its less than 100 bucks to just get a dyno with a/f ratio... its suicide without it. Even running super rich can screw stuff up... get to the shop!
And STOP driving it hard until you do. your crazy man, something like 8K+ in your motor and your driving the hell out of it with no check!!?!??!?!?
+1... it's just rich.
Also, i'm not sure how you plan on running a lightning meter with the power youll be making; I pegged mine at like 375rwhp
Also, i'm not sure how you plan on running a lightning meter with the power youll be making; I pegged mine at like 375rwhp
However, in no instance should anyone ever go WOT on a new FI setup before checking the tune, forged motor or not. Its just silly man... your going around racing people on a unproven setup with no idea what the tune is doing. You have spent ALOT of money on your setup, make sure you don't tear it up before its at it's full potential.
I hope you didn't screw anything up, but the whole deal with breaking that sensor, plugging the vac line and then racing with it was a bad idea (even worse than doing so pre tune check). Hopefully when you get the tune everything will be ok, but just STOP going wot until then.
06-06-2007, 04:31 PM
#35
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 262
RE: CAR DOES NOT RUN STILL??
You said the car was pouring white smoke out??? are you sure it was white smoke??? If so check your coolant. I work for a GM dealer and alot of the cadillacs with the 4.6 northstars come in blowing white smoke out with poor performance and it turns out to be head gaskets....
is your coolant level okay? how long have you driven it like that
is your coolant level okay? how long have you driven it like that
06-07-2007, 08:16 AM
#36
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Bay Minette Alabama
Posts: 3,080
RE: CAR DOES NOT RUN STILL??
ORIGINAL: Sniper6677
You said the car was pouring white smoke out??? are you sure it was white smoke??? If so check your coolant. I work for a GM dealer and alot of the cadillacs with the 4.6 northstars come in blowing white smoke out with poor performance and it turns out to be head gaskets....
is your coolant level okay? how long have you driven it like that
You said the car was pouring white smoke out??? are you sure it was white smoke??? If so check your coolant. I work for a GM dealer and alot of the cadillacs with the 4.6 northstars come in blowing white smoke out with poor performance and it turns out to be head gaskets....
is your coolant level okay? how long have you driven it like that
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