majinprodigy

quick question for those of you NA, head work (p/p) with stage 1 cams... around how much hp are you guys looking at?? any other mods you have or regrets/suggestions about it?
i had this lingering thought in the back of my mind in the interest of saving money and getting the power i was to go with a P/P bullitt intake (have already) head work p/p and stage 1 cams...
also would anyone know if it passes CA emission, lets say with stock GT exhaust??

as promised some pretty nice pictures

cammed99gt

ported heads with stage 1 cams will get u in the 290-300rwhp range with all the bolt ons and with stage 2 cams will bump u up to around the 300-310rwhp

2000GT4.6

I don't think your going to make anywhere near 290-300 without doing the exhaust. The LTs/midpipe are going to make a big difference espcially on a ported heads etc car.

I still don't see the allure of doing heads/cams/intake work on a boltons only car. Unless your going for a all out/weight reduction strip car with a healthy shot of nitrous on it your wasting time playing around with a n/a setup, not to mention money.

majinprodigy

eh like i said, just a lingering thought.. i have an overall plan but suddenly not wanting to forge engine to much =p

2000GT4.6

Just go FI.

Seriously, you can screw around with pulling the engine apart, installing aftermarket cams/intake and heads, and then be disapointed with 310 WHP (if you do all the other boltons) and have a TOUGH time of passing inpection in california (I really really doubt there are 2v cams with that cafe or whatever number you need to have)

OR you could go FI, install the parts all in one weekend, and have a 350+ WHP car that will pass inspection 100 percent legally, get better MPG, have better drivability, and be faster.

H0SS302

True, but i think this guy wants to stay n/a. no other reason to go through all that trouble not to stay n/a. but if ur gonna change cams, why not go stage 2? yea ur onna need to do springs but it will really give u a nice jump in power.

2000GT4.6

Like I said, try and find cams etc with exemption numbers in CA. They might have em, but I really really doubt it, and pass a sniffer test? Forget it.

I just don't see any allure of "staying N/A". Even the 2 or 3 guys on here that truly have "built" motors with n/a setups are doing so primarily to set the car up for spray.

I love how people say they want to stay n/a and build the engine instead of "slapping on a blower" or nitrous etc... apparently they like the idea of paying more money (espcially with install) to have a slower car.

majinprodigy

well honestly heres my intention of it
2.1L kb w/ 6 10 14 psi blower
forged longblock from mmr or vt
tko600 or something with a lower final drive ratio.. something lower then .68 would be nice
driveshaft
tokico D spec
steeda 5 link + comp springs
17x9 w/ 275 all around

cars purpose is daily driving with a kick to have some fun around the coast (i live about 12 miles from beach so lots of fun canyon runs)
the suspension will be done probably by this fall and strengthing all little parts first like new diff+gears (4.10+kb=to much spinning ) so ill probably take it down to 3.55

but now my problem is do i really want to spend the other 8k+ for a new engine/tranny combo
current engine has 30k miles and current tranny has 2k or should i just slap blower on their with 8psi and call it done??
my little dilema =p

newb2000GT

slap the blower on with 8-10 psi and call it done...for now. You will feel the need to mod some more within the year. Trust me.

2002GTAUTOVERT

the problem is, if our cars were a 4 valve engine, then it would be no problem to make serious power staying N/A and doing head and cam work, but since we have 2 valves, the only way to make enough power to the point of satisfaction (for most) is F/I.