Monty

My inspection sticker is expired. But, inorder to renew it I need to clear the check engine light. The codes it is throwing are P1443 and p0136.

For some background on my car. It is a 96 with the pi swap and an off road H.

THANks IN ADVANCE.

neogenic83

it is the thing-a-ma-jig-doo-hicki-regulator.

jdaniel

Well P1443 is "small or No purge flow condition" and P0136 is your O2 sensor. The code for P0136 reads "O2 sensor malfunction (bank 1 sensor 2). You need to check for any chaffed wires and if they are good then you need to replace the O2 sensor (Mil Eliminator). As fr the purge, this is what I found.


Ford On Board Diagnostics II, (OBD II) code P1443 means that the evaporative emissions charcoal canister purge sensor did not detect any flow when the canister should have been purging into the engine intake system. The purging, controlled by the computer,takes place when certain conditions are met, such as engine speed and temperature.What the computer operates to effect this purging is a 12 volt solenoid valve, solenoid means it has a moving piston in it which covers/uncovers ports in the valve so that flow does/does not take place. The "gunk" coming out of the charcoal canister will sometimes cause this piston to stick, resulting in purging not taking place when it should, the sensor in the purge hose detects this and sets a fault/trouble code and also turns on the "Check Engine" light. The electrical windings in these valves seldom fail, but anything is possible. To locate and check this valve, first find the charcoal canister, it will be a round or rectangular black plastic "box" with several different size hoses attached to it. If in doubt that you've found it, look at the bottom, there will be a plastic foam filter there---make sure it is not plugged up---. Once you've located the canister, start following the hoses attached to it. One will go towards the engine, follow that one along until you find the control valve that it attaches to, that's the valve that's not operating. Several things you can do now, just buy a new one and hope it is not the wiring or computer that's at fault. If you want to check it and the wiring, first, with key off, disconnect the two wire connector from it. Use a 12 volt test lamp, turn the key to "run" and check for current at both wires in the connector, one sould have current. Next, connect the test lamp between the two wires in the connector, start the engine and let it warm up, then run the engine up to around 1500 RPM or so, the test light should come on, if it doesn't, then it is the wire that was "cold" when you checked for power at the connector. or the computer. If the light comes on, then it is the valve. Remove it from the vehicle and clean it with an aerosol can of carburetor cleaner,use the "straw" that comes with the can and spray the cleaner into both hose nipples on the valve, alternatly spraying and shaking the valve. When you no longer get brown "gunk" coming out of the valve, reinstall it in the vehicle, but leave, if possible, the hose from the cannister disconnected. Start the car and let it warm up, (if need be), now raise the RPMs to 1500 or so. valve should now open and a vacuum should be present at the open nipple. If so, the problem is cured. On some OBD II equipped vehicles, repairing some problems will cause the computer to turn off the check engine light if the fault is no longer detected, other vehicles require that the computer be interfaced with and the code purged with a scan tool. Any questions, don't hesitate to ask. I'm curious as to what "Inspection Station" would not have sophisticated enough instrumentation to analyze the cause of a P1443 fault code.

Emann0007

jdaniel know shis stuff, but I still think its your flux-capacitor!

Monty

Exactly how big is this "charcoal canister"? And where is it located?. Because I don't rember there being any canisters under the hood.

thanks.


*besides the one connected to the a/c compressor*

jdaniel

Here you go...


Tools needed: small screw driver and pair of small pliers and assorted new rubber tubing. (ramps are good as you will need to access the underside of the car-don't be a cheap skate and just use a jack because you might be crushed to death).

They are both under the passenger's side head-lamp, WAY down there. You'll find a small plastic tube coming from engine that goes to the sensor first, then does a u-turn and goes to the solenoid valve, which is mounted right next to the purge canister (black rectangle shaped box). Disconnect connectors and remove old rubber hoses. NOTE- for some stupid reason, ford decided to make the rubber connector from the solenoid to the canister out of a dealer item only hose that is about 1/4 inch on one side, and about 3/8 inch on the other. While you could buy this from ford, I just made my own by taking a smaller piece of hose and sticking it into a larger one (make sure you have a good snug fit because if you have leaks then all your work is for nothing).

Put everything back together and disconnect ground battery terminal for 5 minutes (this clears the fault code). Reconnect and start your car, you should be good to go.

Monty

hey jd,
what site are you finding this at? Because im not finding much on the net. And I can't find a sensor under the passenger side head lamp.

I've found what seems to be a solenoid but its at the passenger side corner (closest to the firewall)
thanks

Monty

Ok, yeah i found the solenoid. But most ppl seem to be saying that it is the sensor. Any ideas where it is?

jdaniel

Thats all the info from the site. I will try to locate it myself tomorrow when its daylight.

Monty

okay i found something. But the part number is F57E 14A606 AA opposed to that dudes, F57Z 14A606 BA.


Think the guy made a typo???