SchweinoPower

Heya guys. Big fan of MF.com. Question, I have been using cheap oil in the stang for a while. The block has 116k miles on it. Whats the best oil out there to protect my engine?

Also, I store my mustang as soon as I even think snow is comming. How would you properly store the car? Ill give it a good power wash an cover it, but do I let the antifreeze and oil sit, or should I drain them? Thanks guys!

Brad

Stang9946

Anything FULLY Synthetic. I use 5w30 Mobil 1. When you store it you should wash and wax it. Put half a fresh tank of gas in it. Change the oil and run it for a few miles. Flush the antifreeze also. You should really put ALL new fluids in before storage. During the winter, start it up from time to time. Personally i'd start it once a week and let it run for about 5 minutes. If you can...get it out once every 4-6 weeks for a couple of miles just to get things moving around. Atleast that's what I would do. When you bring her back out for the season, change ALL the fluids again. Oh and of course use a car cover. GL


I feel like i've forgot something though.....feel free to chime in anyone.

SchweinoPower

Once you go synthetic you cant go back right?

Triisomy21

Half a tank of gas will be perfect for letting condensation build up. Full tank of gas and stabilizer. No need to change your fluids before you put it away. You'll just be pissing money away. Change them when you get it out. I didn't start mine last year for about 6 months. Some people say not to since it'll be like dry starting your engine everytime. Others say to start it because the seals will dry up and some of your valve springs will be compressed while others won't. It's up to you.

Also take the battery out. Do yourself a favor and clean the inside before you store it..that way it won't smell when you get it back out....some baking soda should soak up any moisture.

Steel wool in the exhaust pipes will also keep rodents out. But I didn't have a problem with that.

Triisomy21

Yea you can. I did. My car still runs......like a champ!

crap double penetra....i mean post.

Stang9946

Half tank will be FINE. You can do a full tank but it is not needed. Once you go full synthetic do not go back. If you do, it should have a type of foam in the block and will probably cause your engine to seize up and well...end of story. You can't switch back and forth with brands, weights, and synthetics whenever you want. When you put one in, you have to stick to it. Don't listen to him

Stang9946

Full stabilizer, cleaning out the inside and the steel wool - agreed. Everything else, no. Leaving things sit for months on end without driving muchless even starting and then starting it up and going or even changing things is just asking for something to break. I know this for a fact. Also look this all up on the net. They'll tell you in detail exactly why you should do everything I said. As for the battery...you can just disconnect it and slide something under it. Leaving it sit in your car is no different than leaving it stored seperately in your garage. Cold is cold. It will kill your battery and shorten it's life regardless of where it is.

Full tank = burning through full tank of old gas. fuel stabilizer will help this
Quarter tank = old gas and close to sucking up deposits at the bottom of the tank
Half tank = no deposits to suck up from low fuel, not a full tank of old gas to burn through.

SchweinoPower

So should I just keep with what the local Ford dealership is putting into my car? Or switch oil now, an keep it with that while I rebuild my block (starting next fall)?

Triisomy21

http://www.popularmechanics.com/auto...o/4213451.html
http://driversmag.com/cover/syntheti...erator_031005/
One of the long-standing myths about choosing synthetic or mineral-based engine oil is that the truck owner would be bound for the duration of truck ownership to their choice. That is, you could not switch back and forth between synthetic and mineral blends without harming the engine. But thankfully, that’s just not so.

“Synthetic and mineral products from the same manufacturer are compatible and can be switched back and forth,” says ChevronTexaco’s Alexander. “Compatibility between manufacturers is commonly OK but there are exceptions.”

http://www.valvoline.com/carcare/art...2&scccid=2

Do a little research first next time before you post. This is how boards get flooded with crap.

http://www.ehow.com/how_138006_store-car.html
http://www.racq.com.au/cps/rde/xchg/...e_ENA_HTML.htm
http://www.porschenet.com/winter.html
http://www.enjoythedrive.com/content/?id=10706

While I take back the part about not bothering changing your oil(even though I did it last winter), the gas tank still stands along with everything else I said. And before you jump on me about starting the car...re-read what I wrote. I told the original poster that I didn't start my car at all and then I gave two good reasons why you should. It was up to him.

So perhaps he shouldn't be listening to you...

2000GT4.6

Just watch the oil levels the first few times after you swap to the syn... it might not use oil if your running dyno bones, but once you switch to synth if the motor isn't tight it will burn oil.. just watch it, and if it does swap back to regular.