engine shops in houston?
07-23-2007, 11:29 PM
#1
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engine shops in houston?
Want to build a new engine and was thinking about the new boss 302 block. I Live in houston texas and was wondering if anyone new a of good and realiable engine shop that could build me a badass motor. Looking for a dailydriver but one that will put out 400 hp N/A but capable of standing a S/C later down the road after the build. But first need a shop so guys please help out.
07-24-2007, 12:21 AM
#4
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RE: engine shops in houston?
yeah psi is a pretty bad *** shop from what i've heard... and i know a guy the s/c his bullitt and it runs fine... i go to g-force in pearland... and i know they have built some freakin bad *** engines... they could prob. do it too just go talk to some shops and just see what they have done and go with what you feel comfterable with...
07-24-2007, 01:04 AM
#6
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RE: engine shops in houston?
If its a 2v you simply are not going ot see 400 WHP on anything you can drive on the street. On a 4v you could, but its still going to be an utterly expenesive and hairy ride (not very streetable).
Regardless of the type (2 or 4) your can't have a good running n/a shortblock that can be supercharged down the road (unless your going to run race fuel all the time). A FI shortblock will have a lower compression ratio, while a n/a one will have a 10.5:1~ ratio. If you want the best of both worlds you would have to re tear down the engine and change pistons at the time you do FI.
For a good n/a build your looking at 7-10K. If your just interested in a shortblock, you can get one from companys like VT or DSS complete for around 3000 dollars. This is just the block, crank, pistons, and connecting rods (plus oil pump etc). Without h/c/i work though the shortblock isn't going to do much/anything for you at this time.
Regardless of the type (2 or 4) your can't have a good running n/a shortblock that can be supercharged down the road (unless your going to run race fuel all the time). A FI shortblock will have a lower compression ratio, while a n/a one will have a 10.5:1~ ratio. If you want the best of both worlds you would have to re tear down the engine and change pistons at the time you do FI.
For a good n/a build your looking at 7-10K. If your just interested in a shortblock, you can get one from companys like VT or DSS complete for around 3000 dollars. This is just the block, crank, pistons, and connecting rods (plus oil pump etc). Without h/c/i work though the shortblock isn't going to do much/anything for you at this time.
07-24-2007, 01:19 AM
#7
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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RE: engine shops in houston?
a built short block is good to have for the future no doubt. i am savin up right now for a dss pro mod short block. i'm gonna get flat tops , but i'm gonna buy a set of dished sometime later on for when i get my blower.
07-24-2007, 01:44 AM
#8
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Posts: 12,575
RE: engine shops in houston?
Its just alot more complicated than that.
You simply cannot have a good running n/a setup and then switch over to a blower setup and have it run right, even when switching the pistons, without alot of work. Your cam grinds are not going to work well (N/a vs FI etc), different intakes respond differently to fi and n/a, etc etc. basically your going to end up with another complete engine teardown, not to mention lots of parts your going to be selling used for a 1/4 of the purchase price.
You could spend the 4000 dollars now, basically gain nothing, and then do FI down the road... or you could go with FI now, and have a 360+ WHP car running perfectly safely on the stock shortblock until you are ready to do more upgrades.
On top of it being hard to go from a n/a to FI built setup, its not as easy as getting a built motor + blower setup and being done with it. To make a shortblock/FI setup worthwhile, you need to exceed about 500 WHP, which means further fuel system upgrades, suspnesion, etc etc etc.
IMO the best bet on a 2v car is to get the car FI (or nitrous)as quickly as possible, and build around that. Every bolton that would have only made a slight difference before will make a major difference after FI, and it just sucks to spend piles and piles of money and still have a slow car.
Just FYI, but a proper n/a 2v build on anything you can consider streetable is only going to net around 340 ish WHP. We are talking an easy $8-10K engine build here, and its not going to perform anywhere near as well as a simple boltons/FI setup, nor be anywhere near as streetable.
You simply cannot have a good running n/a setup and then switch over to a blower setup and have it run right, even when switching the pistons, without alot of work. Your cam grinds are not going to work well (N/a vs FI etc), different intakes respond differently to fi and n/a, etc etc. basically your going to end up with another complete engine teardown, not to mention lots of parts your going to be selling used for a 1/4 of the purchase price.
You could spend the 4000 dollars now, basically gain nothing, and then do FI down the road... or you could go with FI now, and have a 360+ WHP car running perfectly safely on the stock shortblock until you are ready to do more upgrades.
On top of it being hard to go from a n/a to FI built setup, its not as easy as getting a built motor + blower setup and being done with it. To make a shortblock/FI setup worthwhile, you need to exceed about 500 WHP, which means further fuel system upgrades, suspnesion, etc etc etc.
IMO the best bet on a 2v car is to get the car FI (or nitrous)as quickly as possible, and build around that. Every bolton that would have only made a slight difference before will make a major difference after FI, and it just sucks to spend piles and piles of money and still have a slow car.
Just FYI, but a proper n/a 2v build on anything you can consider streetable is only going to net around 340 ish WHP. We are talking an easy $8-10K engine build here, and its not going to perform anywhere near as well as a simple boltons/FI setup, nor be anywhere near as streetable.
07-24-2007, 01:50 AM
#9
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Join Date: Jul 2007
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RE: engine shops in houston?
i don't know i've always been told that a s/c will eat up that stock block. but you seem to know what your talkin about , what kind of boost ? like 8 lbs? and another thing is , what kind of money are you lookin at for an install and tune on a s/c? you can't just put it on and call it good , it HAS to be tuned , correct?
