Ticking noise from Midpipe?
07-27-2007, 07:27 AM
#11
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Whitehall, Michigan
Posts: 2,638
RE: Ticking noise from Midpipe?
ORIGINAL: Glen
I had the same problem with my BBK x-pipe. Get new exhaust manifold studs from your nearest auto parts store and replace them; the stock manifold studs can't butt aftermarket pipes up to the header on the driver's side.
I had the same problem with my BBK x-pipe. Get new exhaust manifold studs from your nearest auto parts store and replace them; the stock manifold studs can't butt aftermarket pipes up to the header on the driver's side.
07-27-2007, 10:46 AM
#13
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Illinois
Posts: 250
RE: Ticking noise from Midpipe?
Where is the most likely place to have a leak? I thought all the bolts were as tight as they can go....
Are you saying that the ticking noise, though less noticable then before, is normal?
Are you saying that the ticking noise, though less noticable then before, is normal?
07-27-2007, 11:37 AM
#14
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Commie State
Posts: 1,454
RE: Ticking noise from Midpipe?
havin the same issue here, we reused the bolts when we installed my pypes xpipe. now there is a rattling/ticking noise that seems to be coming from the front drivers side area (manifold to midpipe?).
07-27-2007, 01:25 PM
#15
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Buffalo, NY
Posts: 4,967
RE: Ticking noise from Midpipe?
why would the bolts have an effect on wether the pipe leaks or not? its most likely the gasket and/or the bolts are not tight enough.....there should be no ticking at all....ticking= exhaust leak
12-07-2007, 12:50 PM
#18
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 366
RE: Ticking noise from Midpipe?
I had some ticking/banging noises coming from the driver's side where my Prochamber bolted to the exhaust manifold. I had it tightened a few times and still made the noises. I chekced for leaks with a smoker and had no leaks. It only made the noises under acceleration, esp when taking off from a stop or turning. My mechanic replaced the studs without weird "stopper" pieces and I haven't heard a peep from it since, other than the rumble of what it's supposed to sound like. Like Glen said, the factory studs doesn't allow the midpipe to bolt up all the way to the manifold b/c of those "stoppers" as I like to call them. I don't know how to remove the studs but I'm sure it can be a pain. My mechanic had to cut one off and re-tap new threads.
12-07-2007, 01:06 PM
#20
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rockville, MD
Posts: 366
RE: Ticking noise from Midpipe?
This might help explain it better than I can. From BBK's website:
Q. My X-pipe won't seal on my Driver Side exhaust manifold on my 96-04 Mustang. Is this the right pipe? What's wrong?
(part numbers affected include: 1665, 1666, 1669, 1670)
A. The piping itself is correct. For whatever reason, some Mustang models leave the factory with a different style header stud on the Driver side, one that has a "shoulder" on it. This shoulder interferes with the flange, not allowing it to come up all the way and seal against the manifold. There are a couple of things that can be done to correct this. Both solutions require the removal of the factory-supplied studs. Once this has been accomplished, you can either A) replace them with a shoulderless-style stud, or B) simply use a nut-and-bolt setup. This should let the flange to come up further unobstructed, allowing the pipe to seal adequately on that side, providing a leak-free fit.
Q. My X-pipe won't seal on my Driver Side exhaust manifold on my 96-04 Mustang. Is this the right pipe? What's wrong?
(part numbers affected include: 1665, 1666, 1669, 1670)
A. The piping itself is correct. For whatever reason, some Mustang models leave the factory with a different style header stud on the Driver side, one that has a "shoulder" on it. This shoulder interferes with the flange, not allowing it to come up all the way and seal against the manifold. There are a couple of things that can be done to correct this. Both solutions require the removal of the factory-supplied studs. Once this has been accomplished, you can either A) replace them with a shoulderless-style stud, or B) simply use a nut-and-bolt setup. This should let the flange to come up further unobstructed, allowing the pipe to seal adequately on that side, providing a leak-free fit.