2000GT4.6

i have never figured this out.

Do people acutally get done racing, and say "well, I would have beat you without your supercharger"? This is along the same line as "I want to build my car n/a, not just "throw" a supercharger on there". I dunno about anyone else's experence, but I didn't exactly just toss mine from the box onto the hood and it snapped into place ...

its more badass to have a maybe 280 WHP n/a 4v than a 400+ WHP FI 2v? Not to mention, have any of you ever acutally looked at the cost of building a n/a 4v setup? And you thought that 2v n/a setups were expensive, 10K on a n/a 4v build won't even scratch the surface. hell, just the cams (not the install kit, no springs etc) is around 1100-1200 dollars...

silverstang1996

i see where both poeple are coming from but it is a lot more "badass" to have the 4v rather than the dime a dozen S/Ced 2v motor. That's the only way to make power on 2v's is supercharging, that's why i went the way i went, i don't want to have a bunch of power coming just from F/I, i want more power coming from a n/a engine. And IMO it is alot cooler to get done racing someone and beating them and when they ask, "wow what kind of s/c you got under there?", and you be able to say, nothing, it's all motor baby. It's more of a personal/principle thing, because i'd rather have a n/a 4v over a f/i 2v anyday, but the way you are talking 2000GT is deffinetely the more cheaper way to make power I'll deff. say you're right on that.

silverstang1996

and as for the swap, the 4v motor should be alot less complicated, because you have diff. motor mounts for the 3v and there are a good bit of different things with the new 3v motors. Believe me, I did all my research because that's the same thing I was wondering when I was looking for a 3v or 4v. Mostly I see 3v's cheaper, but all the custom stuff of installing the motor will put you just as expensive, or even higher in costs than the 4v would. Also parts are cheaper for 4v.

2002GTAUTOVERT

dime a dozen S/C 2v? i dunno about you, but outside of this forum i have only seen 1 F/I mustang 2V out of the probably 3000 ive looked at when im at the track. most GT owners go for exhaust, intake and leave it at that.. maybe some rims or rice their sh*t out.. but i never see a F/I 2V.

Sxynerd

4v ftw

silverstang1996

well since living very close to carlisle, where the all ford nationals are held, that's about all i see, dime adozen s/ced 2v's. Now I've never seen a GT with a 4v swap, and rarely see a S/C cobra.

97targa

OK, now I know the 96-98's have tumble port heads which differ from the newer style 04-04 heads. Are the 99-04's all the same style? If I get a 4v I wanna be able to pick up a factory s/c that all those 03-04 guys are practically giving away! I know they aren't so efficient, but to spend $1,000 to get as much power out of a 4v compared to $3k for a 2v is def. worth it to me!

silverstang1996

96-98 aren't tumble port, but they are still as good as 99-04 basially. you can't switck over a 03/04 s/c because the 96-98 heads are wrong, you'd need 03/04 or 99-01 may work too

2000GT4.6

I guess if it makes you feel better to spend more money, have more hassle, and in the end still see nothing but tailights...

regardless of what you do, if you want to be actually fast in a 281 CI, no matter what the head configuration, your going to either have to add FI, or spend 10K on your motor and then twice that on weight reduction and suspension.

I really need to find that article in MM&FF where they were talking about doing 4v builds. Even the guy doing it basically said that without FI of some type your going to have to spin the motor to unaturally high RPMs to get any power out of it, simply because you only have 281 CI to work with. Spinning it that high means big cams, wild port jobs on the heads, and short runner intake manifolds...which means a motor that runs like **** until 4000 RPM where it takes off like a bandit.

I just don't think 99.999 percent of you realise exactly how unstreetable a built 2v or 4v (one thats acutally built) is going to be N/A. You can take a 600+ WHP 2v with FI out on the street and drive it every day... try that with a 350 WHP 2v and your not going to like the results.

FI > N/A. Simply put, there is no difference between building your engine n/a or adding a blower (and possibly building it later on). Telling someone that the reason you just got walked away from is because you feel good about "building your motor" isn't going to help out the results of the race.

Gar4pt6

haha screw all of it...f/i 4v and build the motor too