3v or 4v swap?
08-05-2007, 05:11 AM
#21
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: United States
Posts: 12,575
RE: 3v or 4v swap?
If your dead set on it, 4v is the way to go.
It just doesn't make alot of since unless your going to get a forged 03/04 assembly though. Both assemblys still have about a 450 WHP limit due to the rotating assembly, so either way you have to spend the big bucks to forge the bottom end if you want to get serious (n/a or FI). Neither will support the horsepower or RPM that results from building a mod motor.
Dollar for dollar, pound for pound I can gaurentee you that unless you just get the worlds greatest deal on a 4v assembly, and can install it yourself, your going to make more power (with the same expense) staying with your 2v. The prohibitive cost of a 4v assembly makes this true, not to mention that almost anything (other than FI or boltons) on a 4v is more expensive than on a 2v car.
Up until 600 or 650 WHP a 2v will get the job done just as well as a 4v, and do it cheaper if you already have a 2v under the hood in working order.
It just doesn't make alot of since unless your going to get a forged 03/04 assembly though. Both assemblys still have about a 450 WHP limit due to the rotating assembly, so either way you have to spend the big bucks to forge the bottom end if you want to get serious (n/a or FI). Neither will support the horsepower or RPM that results from building a mod motor.
Dollar for dollar, pound for pound I can gaurentee you that unless you just get the worlds greatest deal on a 4v assembly, and can install it yourself, your going to make more power (with the same expense) staying with your 2v. The prohibitive cost of a 4v assembly makes this true, not to mention that almost anything (other than FI or boltons) on a 4v is more expensive than on a 2v car.
Up until 600 or 650 WHP a 2v will get the job done just as well as a 4v, and do it cheaper if you already have a 2v under the hood in working order.
08-05-2007, 11:05 AM
#22
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Washington State
Posts: 938
RE: 3v or 4v swap?
The real question is why you want the swap. Do you want it to be able to say "I have a 4v" or are you really planning on building a monster hp vehicle? Like 2000GT is saying, it's gonna be expensive as hell to do the swap and build it n/a.
I was wanting to do a swap for a while, then I realized I just wanted the car to be fun and faster than the avg car on the road. I don't live at the track and I don't live street light to street light, so what would I need with 500+ RWHP? The more hp you make, the less streetable your car will become. A nice supercharger setup on a 2v can result in almost 400 safe hp. That is about $4k in parts and 500-1k in labor. How much would itcost to get the 4v swap completed and get it to 400hp?
I was wanting to do a swap for a while, then I realized I just wanted the car to be fun and faster than the avg car on the road. I don't live at the track and I don't live street light to street light, so what would I need with 500+ RWHP? The more hp you make, the less streetable your car will become. A nice supercharger setup on a 2v can result in almost 400 safe hp. That is about $4k in parts and 500-1k in labor. How much would itcost to get the 4v swap completed and get it to 400hp?
08-05-2007, 06:38 PM
#23
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 3,625
RE: 3v or 4v swap?
ORIGINAL: Hyper00
The real question is why you want the swap. Do you want it to be able to say "I have a 4v" or are you really planning on building a monster hp vehicle? Like 2000GT is saying, it's gonna be expensive as hell to do the swap and build it n/a.
I was wanting to do a swap for a while, then I realized I just wanted the car to be fun and faster than the avg car on the road. I don't live at the track and I don't live street light to street light, so what would I need with 500+ RWHP? The more hp you make, the less streetable your car will become. A nice supercharger setup on a 2v can result in almost 400 safe hp. That is about $4k in parts and 500-1k in labor. How much would itcost to get the 4v swap completed and get it to 400hp?
The real question is why you want the swap. Do you want it to be able to say "I have a 4v" or are you really planning on building a monster hp vehicle? Like 2000GT is saying, it's gonna be expensive as hell to do the swap and build it n/a.
I was wanting to do a swap for a while, then I realized I just wanted the car to be fun and faster than the avg car on the road. I don't live at the track and I don't live street light to street light, so what would I need with 500+ RWHP? The more hp you make, the less streetable your car will become. A nice supercharger setup on a 2v can result in almost 400 safe hp. That is about $4k in parts and 500-1k in labor. How much would itcost to get the 4v swap completed and get it to 400hp?
08-05-2007, 07:41 PM
#24
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: United States
Posts: 12,575
RE: 3v or 4v swap?
ORIGINAL: 97targa
My motor ISN"T in working order!!! I bent a valve (I think) with too much nitrous. Besides it's a non-pi piece'o-sh.t it runs like crap. I can stil drive it but I blew apart the botom of a spark plug and there isn't anything left inside???? I think most went out the exhaust valve, but a piece must have gotten wedged. (so I assume) My car idles like it has an incredible cam and lags at first. I think I may have scorched the rings in there too because I have some blow by on the spark plug because it doesn't seem to be firing? I swapped out injectors with another cylinder and nothing. Anyways, I'm not goin through the hassle of pulling apart those rediculous motors which is the most ***-nine design. I am just gonna buy a complete drop-in motor even if it's just a SOHC PI version. Which I'm sure it will be the easiest for installation. I found a 47kmi with complete accessories and computer...etc for $2k shipped to my door with a 6month warranty. It's an O.K deal, but it makes my life the easiest
ORIGINAL: Hyper00
The real question is why you want the swap. Do you want it to be able to say "I have a 4v" or are you really planning on building a monster hp vehicle? Like 2000GT is saying, it's gonna be expensive as hell to do the swap and build it n/a.
I was wanting to do a swap for a while, then I realized I just wanted the car to be fun and faster than the avg car on the road. I don't live at the track and I don't live street light to street light, so what would I need with 500+ RWHP? The more hp you make, the less streetable your car will become. A nice supercharger setup on a 2v can result in almost 400 safe hp. That is about $4k in parts and 500-1k in labor. How much would itcost to get the 4v swap completed and get it to 400hp?
The real question is why you want the swap. Do you want it to be able to say "I have a 4v" or are you really planning on building a monster hp vehicle? Like 2000GT is saying, it's gonna be expensive as hell to do the swap and build it n/a.
I was wanting to do a swap for a while, then I realized I just wanted the car to be fun and faster than the avg car on the road. I don't live at the track and I don't live street light to street light, so what would I need with 500+ RWHP? The more hp you make, the less streetable your car will become. A nice supercharger setup on a 2v can result in almost 400 safe hp. That is about $4k in parts and 500-1k in labor. How much would itcost to get the 4v swap completed and get it to 400hp?
08-05-2007, 10:11 PM
#25
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Akron, OH
Posts: 835
RE: 3v or 4v swap?
Everyone is right about the expense of building an n/a runner. Trust me, thats kindof the road i want to take. Although its by no means a race car, and I dont street race at all, I want some guts, just not as much as others want. My car has just under 300rwhp and im pleased. Ive always wanted to do an n/a mildly built 4V swap for that extra umph tho...I have a friend thats gonna be selling me a 4V swap for 300 bucks. But I obviously will be saving for a while to build it up. I visited VTs website, and a forged shortblock (aluminum block) with billet oil pump runs about 4,000 bucks. Ported and worked over heads that you have to provide run about 3,000 bucks. Cams are 1,000 and a good intake is gonna be 500-700 bucks. Of course if your gonna go that far on building the motor you might as well get the FR500 intake which is a tip over 3,000. So after all that, tuning, wiring and all the little stuff is done your lookin at about a 15,000 engine that MIGHT beat awarmed overLS1. I love all motor setups, but man, I gotta tell ya, a F/I 2V is the way to go if you want cheap safe horsepower...
08-06-2007, 06:25 AM
#26
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: MN
Posts: 4,412
RE: 3v or 4v swap?
ORIGINAL: 2000GT4.6
If your dead set on it, 4v is the way to go.
It just doesn't make alot of since unless your going to get a forged 03/04 assembly though. Both assemblys still have about a 450 WHP limit due to the rotating assembly, so either way you have to spend the big bucks to forge the bottom end if you want to get serious (n/a or FI). Neither will support the horsepower or RPM that results from building a mod motor.
Dollar for dollar, pound for pound I can gaurentee you that unless you just get the worlds greatest deal on a 4v assembly, and can install it yourself, your going to make more power (with the same expense) staying with your 2v. The prohibitive cost of a 4v assembly makes this true, not to mention that almost anything (other than FI or boltons) on a 4v is more expensive than on a 2v car.
Up until 600 or 650 WHP a 2v will get the job done just as well as a 4v, and do it cheaper if you already have a 2v under the hood in working order.
If your dead set on it, 4v is the way to go.
It just doesn't make alot of since unless your going to get a forged 03/04 assembly though. Both assemblys still have about a 450 WHP limit due to the rotating assembly, so either way you have to spend the big bucks to forge the bottom end if you want to get serious (n/a or FI). Neither will support the horsepower or RPM that results from building a mod motor.
Dollar for dollar, pound for pound I can gaurentee you that unless you just get the worlds greatest deal on a 4v assembly, and can install it yourself, your going to make more power (with the same expense) staying with your 2v. The prohibitive cost of a 4v assembly makes this true, not to mention that almost anything (other than FI or boltons) on a 4v is more expensive than on a 2v car.
Up until 600 or 650 WHP a 2v will get the job done just as well as a 4v, and do it cheaper if you already have a 2v under the hood in working order.
I understand your idea of just staying with what you have but if I could swap to a full forged 4v for only $500 more then a forged 2v, your damn right I would do it. Engine swaps just aren't as expensive as you think.
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