ROB 98GT

I was thinking of maybe getting a stall for the stang, just got a couple of questions.

1) right now I have 4.10's, which would be an ideal stall speed to go with for a daily driver? (I plan on staying NA)

2) should I go single disc or triple disc?

3) would a lock up or non-lock up be better

4) which manufactuer should I go with (i don't want to spend too much, i have seen them price between $200-$1000)

5) does having a higher stall only help from a dead stop, or would it help if I mashed on the gas from a roll?

I tried looking on a few sites for defenitive answers to my question, and no luck. Thanks.

ROB 98GT

maybe the mf late day/nighters might have some insight? ....................bump

BleedinBlue

JD can help with this one. I've asked about stalls before, not many members have them or have much knowledge on them.

MrChubs1

If you have 4.10s, you really don't need much. I'd keep it mild, say 2000-2200 at most. If you go with a looser converter, it;s a good idea to add a cooler since it'll be making more heat.

Lock-up is the only way to go. Without the lockup you'll make even more heat, your mileage will go to crap and it'll be annoying to drive.

A stronger lock-up clutch is a good idea, so I assume more discs are better for additional load handling ability.

Higher stall speed will help any time you mash the go pedal as long as you're at a speed that puts your RPM under the stall speed. In your case, mostly just off the line.

That's all I got.

01Steed

Don't go with anything under a 3200 if you're staying n/a. You will regret it otherwise. Your ideal stall speed is ~700 rpm lower than your peak torque number, so in the typical 4.6, that's 3400.
Go with a triple-disk, lock-up converter.

Go to www.dirtydogperformance.com , and give Al a call. He'll set you up with the best converter money can buy, AND, he's a small operation, so you won't be paying for all that overhead of a big company. Talk to him. He knows more about these things than anyone I know, and he'll build a converter that fits your application perfectly. Don't freak out if he suggests anything higher than a 3400. Don't fear the stall!!

MrChubs1

If you're building a racecar, I agree with Steed. Otherwise you'll hate to drive that car on the street, you'll get awful mileage and you'll burn up the tranny (without a very good trans cooler).

JD1969

Well I must have a freak my 4000 Yank has not "burned up' my trans in the two years its been in there. Remember, at cruise the converter locks, which creates no more heat than stock and gives about the same mpg.

01Steed

NOT true! In fact, quite the opposite is true.....he'll absolutely LOVE to drive it. My car is a daily driver. I have a Fluidyne tranny cooler, which is about $100.
Like JD1969 says, the converter acts like a stock unit when locked. Many people have misperceptions about high stall converters. Some think the car won't move until the stall speed is acheived...some think the converter won't lock until that speed is met....nothing could be further from the truth. And some people aren't familiar with a lock-up converter at all.

What stall do you have in your car?

MrChubs1

I'm quite familiar with converters. Yes, a lockup will make it MUCH more livable, but what I was referring to was driving without the thing locked. Most cars don't lock up until you hit at least 4th gear (1:1) or OD. You can always override this with a manual switch like I did in my truck.

Without a lockup, 4000 RPM stall would be murder on MPG and would make massive amounts of heat in a DD.

01Steed

Well, our 4R70W's are 1:1 in 3rd. And they lockup in 3rd with the stock tune. Anyone running around with their converter unlocked (when it should be) is an idiot! That's not to say that non-locking converters in the appropriate application aren't right. But if you have a lock-up converter from the factory, there is no reason to go with a non-lockup converter. In fact, a lock-up converter will reduce your ET's over a non-locking unit.

An aftermarket tune can command lockup at the 1-2 shift and the 2-3 shift also.

Bottom line....he will not fry his tranny with a high stall. Yes, a cooler should be used in conjunction to minimize heat from stop and go traffic, but that's a gimme.

Rob, you should also look into the J-mod, and a tune to quicken the time between shifts. This will also reduce heat and wear on your clutch-paks.