jslobig

Its been2 months since I drove my stang. The plastictherm housingcracked back then, so I just let it sit for ahwile and started it up every week to operating temp. Now I want to go ahead and get the PI Intake. How's this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-98...spagenameZWDVW

I have about $350 to spend, so unless I can get something better, this one might be it.

Shelbyville

I was poking around americanmuscle.com last night and remembered I saw this. I am not saying its any better or worse, but there is enough of a difference in price that you might want to check it out.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/intakemanifold.html

jslobig

That one needs PI Heads though. I can't afford new heads, just bought a house. I am lucky I can afford the manifold! Thanks anyway.

Shelbyville

sorry. My bad. Should have looked at your signature.

jslobig

Just got the PI Intake Manifoldswap done last weekand things were great for a couple days. Definite power increase, everything sealed good, no leaks of any kind.

Here's the new issue, yesterday theCEL came on. I am getting Misfire Codes on Cyl. 1,2 & 3. I took it to my mechanic and he can not corroborate the misfires. Hechecked it out and saysis not misfiring, to ignore the CEL,and cleared the codes. This morning, CEL came on again. Is there a sure fire way to determine if it is misfiring? I changed the plugs rightbefore the Intake swap, but figure if there was a problem there, it would have been caught during the swap.Any suggestions?

BlackMage

when it gets dark out, get a spray bottle full of water and mist your engine bay when its dark and see ifyour plug wires are arcing to the block, or pull the wires and make sure they are all dry again, and that there is no coolant in them. and a good way to usually tell if your misfiring is put your palm over the tailpipe, if it is pulsing really really bad, you def have a misfire, but a small pulse is normal. like a sputter is what your lookin for, other than that your mechanic should b able to pinpoint it

just curious if this is how you went about it, or if you did anything different
https://mustangforums.com/m_3833004/...tm.htm#3833004

Dsmfighter

I don't think they made a direct fit PI intake manifold that bolt on to the stock NPI heads... but I could be wrong. I remember having to use some permatex and blocking some coolant passages for all the ones I've ever done.

Anyways.. start with how you have your wires layed out. The spark could be jumping from one wire to another depending how you have them layed out. Make sure you have them all placed how they are from the factory... believe it or not there is a reason why they are layed the way they are. If that doesn't work, try checking your plug gap. I can't remember off the top of my head, but I believe they should be gapped to about .0052'. Make sure you have ALL of the wire going to the correct coil pack terminal. Obviously check for any abrasions on the wires, as well as them being on all the way. Do you have all of your injector harness ends on correctly? There is a chance that you could be leaking coolant down in to the cylinders if the coolant passages aren't blocked like I had mentioned, and that would cause the cylinder to not fire.


Hope that helps.
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ExoDus84

I've never heard you need to RTV serveral places on the timing cover. Is that simply a precaution? There shouldnt be any oil leaks if you use the right bolts and everything lines up correctly.

BlackMage

what are you talking about??

Swamp

In the past I have tried aftermarket spark plugs and this happen to me to two cars. I put in new plugs ran for maybe a week and it started missing. I only put factory plugs in now. I did not see what type you put in, so just my 2 cents.