Brake questions
11-12-2007, 11:01 PM
#1
5th Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: MD, but NC for school
Posts: 2,374
Brake questions
hey after i get money for xmas, im gonna do my brakes. new rotors, new pads and brake fluid. their just gonna be OEM rotors from napa and some decent pads..i am wanting to know how to go about bleeding the brakes, i want to get all new fluid in there(throughout the system) and i dont want to mess anything up. is there a how to or anything on how to do it? i know i get a c clamp and compress them and open the bleeder and have someone pump them etc but how EXACTLY do you do that....thanks for the help
11-12-2007, 11:07 PM
#2
5th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: NY
Posts: 2,518
RE: Brake questions
I would save yourself the time a frustration and have a shop bleed the brakes. I dont think it should cost much but if it does:
just open the nipples of all the calipers and pump the brakes, all the fluid will just squirt out. (put a bucket under each caliper and some tubing going from the nipple to the bucket.)
keep pumping the brake and eventually the reservoir will run dry. Fill it up and pump the brakes until fluid is coming out of the nipples. tighten all 3 except for the back right and have someone pump the brakes so you get all the air out of the lines while a person tightens the nipple. Then do the back left, front right, and lastly front left. (make sure to keep the oil tank full so you dont run dry and have to start over.)
just open the nipples of all the calipers and pump the brakes, all the fluid will just squirt out. (put a bucket under each caliper and some tubing going from the nipple to the bucket.)
keep pumping the brake and eventually the reservoir will run dry. Fill it up and pump the brakes until fluid is coming out of the nipples. tighten all 3 except for the back right and have someone pump the brakes so you get all the air out of the lines while a person tightens the nipple. Then do the back left, front right, and lastly front left. (make sure to keep the oil tank full so you dont run dry and have to start over.)
11-13-2007, 09:01 AM
#3
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location:
Posts: 2,028
RE: Brake questions
No don't open all the bleed fittings at once or you'll have air in the system and have to start over.
Using a turkey baster or some other suction device,clean all the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservior.Refill with new fluid.
Start at the passenger side rear,fit a two foot length of clear vinyl hose over the bleeder and loosen the bleed fitting.
You can speed the process by having someone push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it while you tighten the bleed fitting.Once the fitting is tight,release the brake and pump the pedal until the brake is firm again.Repeat the process until you get clear fluid coming out of the hose.You can also let gravity do the job.The new brake fluid will flow from the master cylinder to the caliper by gravity.It's slowerbut it works if you ain't got a helper.
Once you get clear fluid coming out of the pass. side caliper,close the bleed fitting and move to the drivers side rear.Repeat the above, moving to the pass side front and finally the drivers side front.This rotational procedure gets all the old fluid out by moving closer to the master cylinderwith each wheel.
DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY!!!!!
If you do you will have to start all over again at the master cylinder and that is a PITA.If you have ABS you could be severely screwed!
Start out with at least two quarts of brake fluid,it takes more than you might think to flush the system.
Don't get fancy with the brake fluid either,DOT 3 heavy duty is good enough and is recommended.Reason? DOT 3 draws moisture,that sounds bad but the silicone based fluids do not and will allow water to pool at low points in the system.
DOT 3 carries the water out with it when it's changed and that's why you're changing it.
Using a turkey baster or some other suction device,clean all the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservior.Refill with new fluid.
Start at the passenger side rear,fit a two foot length of clear vinyl hose over the bleeder and loosen the bleed fitting.
You can speed the process by having someone push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it while you tighten the bleed fitting.Once the fitting is tight,release the brake and pump the pedal until the brake is firm again.Repeat the process until you get clear fluid coming out of the hose.You can also let gravity do the job.The new brake fluid will flow from the master cylinder to the caliper by gravity.It's slowerbut it works if you ain't got a helper.
Once you get clear fluid coming out of the pass. side caliper,close the bleed fitting and move to the drivers side rear.Repeat the above, moving to the pass side front and finally the drivers side front.This rotational procedure gets all the old fluid out by moving closer to the master cylinderwith each wheel.
DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY!!!!!
If you do you will have to start all over again at the master cylinder and that is a PITA.If you have ABS you could be severely screwed!
Start out with at least two quarts of brake fluid,it takes more than you might think to flush the system.
Don't get fancy with the brake fluid either,DOT 3 heavy duty is good enough and is recommended.Reason? DOT 3 draws moisture,that sounds bad but the silicone based fluids do not and will allow water to pool at low points in the system.
DOT 3 carries the water out with it when it's changed and that's why you're changing it.
11-13-2007, 06:49 PM
#6
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SF Bay.
Posts: 3,035
RE: Brake questions
ORIGINAL: Chopper
No don't open all the bleed fittings at once or you'll have air in the system and have to start over.
Using a turkey baster or some other suction device,clean all the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservior.Refill with new fluid.
Start at the passenger side rear,fit a two foot length of clear vinyl hose over the bleeder and loosen the bleed fitting.
You can speed the process by having someone push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it while you tighten the bleed fitting.Once the fitting is tight,release the brake and pump the pedal until the brake is firm again.Repeat the process until you get clear fluid coming out of the hose.You can also let gravity do the job.The new brake fluid will flow from the master cylinder to the caliper by gravity.It's slowerbut it works if you ain't got a helper.
Once you get clear fluid coming out of the pass. side caliper,close the bleed fitting and move to the drivers side rear.Repeat the above, moving to the pass side front and finally the drivers side front.This rotational procedure gets all the old fluid out by moving closer to the master cylinderwith each wheel.
DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY!!!!!
If you do you will have to start all over again at the master cylinder and that is a PITA.If you have ABS you could be severely screwed!
Start out with at least two quarts of brake fluid,it takes more than you might think to flush the system.
Don't get fancy with the brake fluid either,DOT 3 heavy duty is good enough and is recommended.Reason? DOT 3 draws moisture,that sounds bad but the silicone based fluids do not and will allow water to pool at low points in the system.
DOT 3 carries the water out with it when it's changed and that's why you're changing it.
No don't open all the bleed fittings at once or you'll have air in the system and have to start over.
Using a turkey baster or some other suction device,clean all the old fluid out of the master cylinder reservior.Refill with new fluid.
Start at the passenger side rear,fit a two foot length of clear vinyl hose over the bleeder and loosen the bleed fitting.
You can speed the process by having someone push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it while you tighten the bleed fitting.Once the fitting is tight,release the brake and pump the pedal until the brake is firm again.Repeat the process until you get clear fluid coming out of the hose.You can also let gravity do the job.The new brake fluid will flow from the master cylinder to the caliper by gravity.It's slowerbut it works if you ain't got a helper.
Once you get clear fluid coming out of the pass. side caliper,close the bleed fitting and move to the drivers side rear.Repeat the above, moving to the pass side front and finally the drivers side front.This rotational procedure gets all the old fluid out by moving closer to the master cylinderwith each wheel.
DO NOT LET THE MASTER CYLINDER RUN DRY!!!!!
If you do you will have to start all over again at the master cylinder and that is a PITA.If you have ABS you could be severely screwed!
Start out with at least two quarts of brake fluid,it takes more than you might think to flush the system.
Don't get fancy with the brake fluid either,DOT 3 heavy duty is good enough and is recommended.Reason? DOT 3 draws moisture,that sounds bad but the silicone based fluids do not and will allow water to pool at low points in the system.
DOT 3 carries the water out with it when it's changed and that's why you're changing it.
11-14-2007, 09:55 AM
#7
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location:
Posts: 717
RE: Brake questions
Or you can just get a vaccum bleeder. There's different types, some hook to a compressor and some are hand-pumps. It doesn;t take very long and is an easy job, even for one person. The old school method is to have one person pumping the brakes. If you go this route, make sure you put a block of wood (or something)under the pedal. You don't want to push the pedal to the floor completely because you'll be running the master cylinder seals over parts of the bore that don't normally see any action. They could be rough or cruddy and can tear up the seals.
11-14-2007, 10:47 AM
#8
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Join Date: Oct 2006
Location:
Posts: 63
RE: Brake questions
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