timing help
11-20-2007, 01:54 PM
#3
aka 'Negative Nancy'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,839
RE: timing help
lol my PI motor is pissing me off, the whole car was close to being dumped in a field and set on fire this weekend....and thanks for the suggestion lol zip tie ftl though
11-20-2007, 02:09 PM
#5
aka 'Negative Nancy'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,839
RE: timing help
lol yea i know [8D]... i think it would be suspicious if i loaded my dirt bike into my truck, and parked the truck in a field next to my car and torched all 3 of my headaches and just claimed a nice insurance check 
...damn
...damn
11-20-2007, 04:10 PM
#6
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 6,448
RE: timing help
You are taking your chains off. You have to retime it. Its not hard. Before you remove the chains turn the crank so the key is at 12oclock. Then remove the chains. When reinstalling line up the chain on the crank and turn the cam to get the chain to line up right. Look at my "How to build your own engine" thread at the top it will show you.
11-20-2007, 04:38 PM
#8
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 1,178
RE: timing help
I have not read the rebuild thread but do a little more research and BUY A MANUAL! A Haynes manula costs about $20. with Tax at your local parts store mand has plenty of info on what you are doing. It takes time so expect some downtime and get your parts together before you start. I just changed my cams so I know! You need to get the moor at TSC and the cover should have a TDC arrow but you need to be sure that #1 cylinder is at TDC of the compression stroke. Have a friend hold his hand over the spark plug hole(better tey get a cmpression gauge) as you turn the crank(i just slipped the pulley back over the key and turned it by hand) and once you feel/see the comrpression start as the mark on the damper pulley is coming up into view you are on compression and take it right up to the TDC mark on the cover.
I did nothing to hold my cams in place. After TDC I rotated the engine 45* CC so the valves and pistons cannot hit each other. ETC. There is a lot but as said no difficult if you go slow and mark your parts in plastic baggies. Do more research or ask questions again until you are comfortable. I even has an experienced guytalk me through any troubles on the phone as I was doing the job. I am willing to do somthing similar.
I did nothing to hold my cams in place. After TDC I rotated the engine 45* CC so the valves and pistons cannot hit each other. ETC. There is a lot but as said no difficult if you go slow and mark your parts in plastic baggies. Do more research or ask questions again until you are comfortable. I even has an experienced guytalk me through any troubles on the phone as I was doing the job. I am willing to do somthing similar.
11-20-2007, 06:09 PM
#9
aka 'Negative Nancy'
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Ohio
Posts: 4,839
RE: timing help
thanks man...my dad seems to have a fairly good idea of what we are doing...i will most likely pick up a haynes manual, ive been meaning to get one anyways...my dad is a chevy guy and his car (350 TPI iroc) is worse to work on than mine...he dad H/I/C work on his so this shouldnt be too bad...ill definately be collecting anything yall got to say and figuring out what is the best thing to do...i talked to him tonight and we are not going to replace the chain... we are just going to lock the cams and then swap the guides and tensioners...
11-20-2007, 06:37 PM
#10
6th Gear Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Ohio
Posts: 6,448
RE: timing help
You don't need to waste money on that pos manual. In the thread I wrote it has all the torque specs and tighting sequenses you will need which is the only reason you buy a manual. You can do it the way sweet99 said but it is more pain staking and if the cams move you will have to pull all of the followers out inorder to turn the cam. With the crank key at 12 oclock, which is safe mode for the engine, All pistons are far enough below deck that you can spin the cams with the followers in with no risk of hitting the valves. At TDC minus 45* which is BDC the pistons are below deck but not far enough to spin the cams. And both of those are marked on the timing cover.
If you are just changing the guides and tentionsioners then just use a paint marker and mark the chains where they line up on the dots on the 4 sprokets. Once you get in there you will see how easy it all is. My best advice to you is to put that engine at 12oclock because if you mess up you dont want to have to buy that $80 ford spring tool or remove the cams.
If you are just changing the guides and tentionsioners then just use a paint marker and mark the chains where they line up on the dots on the 4 sprokets. Once you get in there you will see how easy it all is. My best advice to you is to put that engine at 12oclock because if you mess up you dont want to have to buy that $80 ford spring tool or remove the cams.