FE_Chris

OK, Here's mt story. I am the new owner is a 99' GT Convert. 5-speed, 80k miles, Black with a tan top. Leather, Mach stereo. Loaded. I love it. Here's my short,heartbreaking tale.

The car is in wonderful condition. I did purchase it from a dealer, BUT... The car was 1-owner, dealer maintaned, A-1 conditon (almost, reado-on). No dents, no dings. No rips, no tears no scratches (well, very few it is a 99 nothing is totaly perfect, just nothing noticable at all). OK, so I sign, drive away. As I get back into town I pull over to a gas station. I get out fill her up. Go in and pay. As I come out.....The sun starts to come out.......the day was a bit cloudy.....Thats when I notice and almost wanna cry because I can see that some a-hole had used a electric wheel to "wheel-out" my paint!!!!!!!!!!!!! The paint is in GREAT shape....But the clear coat has "waves" in it from the dam wheel rubbing across it. I was all bent out of shape....pissed...here I have the wonderful, beautiful now older mustang GT summer fun time cruiser that looks like **** unless it's raining or cloud outside.

So, I drove it for a couple months and into the garage for the winter time it went. This brings me to my question........


Can body shops re-clear coat my paint? oris there aspecial wax like compound that can remove these "wheel waves"???? Man I am going to have to do something....and a 3,000$ paint job is not something I just have the money laying around for.

Thanks guys, nice forum. Hope you like my ride.and of course, from the pics you see it looks good believe me....THE CLEAR COAT IS WASTED.

Saleen326

Not sure if they can just reclear the whole thing. If they do, I believe there is still a lot of prep work required which will cost you some $$$. Have you tried having it detailed or detailing it yourself? May a nice wash, clay bar, polish, glaze, and sealant will help. Just an idea.

Juztang

It sounds like you are talking about buffer trails. This happens when somebody buffs a vehicle that doesn't know what they are doing or just does a crappy job. I've had to fix similar situations many times.

It won't be that hard at all to fix. You will need a machine polisher and probably a light abrassive polish to fix the problem, in most cases.Trying to correct this by hand just won't cut it. You could have a reputable detail shop try to fix this or purchase a Porter Cable polisher. The PC is really worth the investment, you can be a beginner and get excellent results without having to worry about hurting your paint.

Hope this helps, let me know if you have anymore questions.

FE_Chris

Thanks Justin!!!!

Yes justin buffer trails!!!! thats exactly what I have!

Yes I normally use "Liquid Glass" because I heard it was the best. It gives a nice wax job, but it does not take care of the wheel trails.

I have to be honest justin, I am a bit nervous about using more "machine" on my paint, as the machine is what f'ed it up in the first place. Obviously I know I would have to get PC buffer, but maybe you could shoot me a list here in the thread, or PM of what you would reccomend to do the detail job with.

So you are serious. I can get my paint permanantly back to good looking black? My old mans 01 exploder with 140K is black....never even been waxed. NEVER. His clear coat looks better then mine.

Juztang

This Porter Cable is completely safe and that is all you will need to fix the buffer trails. It is almost impossible to hurt your paint with the PC, it is high speed, but it is still an orbital. The PC doesn't create the heat that a circular polisher does, which I also use quite a bit. You should checkout the detailing section on here, there are many people that use the PC, almost everyone was in the same situation as you, they hadn't used a polisher before with no experience. People don't realize how easy it is to use.

I would go with a PC package, this will save you some money. The PC package comes with a PC, backing plate that is needed for the different pads, a light cutting pad, polishing pad, and finishing pad. Then I would go with a medium swirl remover like Optimum Polish and a light swirl remover, my Light Polish is very popular for this. I would also look into my high qaulity waxes and sealants. I think you would be even more impressed with these than the Liquid Glass!

FE_Chris

Thanks man.....This makes me feel so much better.....sound like a couple hundred bucks and some elbow grease is what I need.


you ever use liquid glass? can I ask your opinion of it?

Juztang

Yes I've used the Liquid Glass in the past, I have used so many products over the years. I've been detailing for about 13 years now!

Liquid Glass is a decent over the counter product, there are so many better products out there. The prep work is the key to the best possible finish. Claying,polishing and swirl removal are the most important parts. The glazes, waxes, and sealants just add some more in the looks department plus add protection.

All of my products are easy on and easy off with no residue, they come off with almost no effort at all. Most of my products you can use in the direct sunlight and they still come off with ease. I use these products everyday and I'm very familiar with what works best on different color combos etc.