cams?
#4
RE: cams?
I believe MD did stage 1 N/A cams... As far as I know, those don't require new valve springs. Stage 2 is a little more time consuming because you need to put in those new springs. There are some picture instructions on the internet. The important thing is that you put the timing chain on correctly (this is easy to mess up) when your done because if you don't the pistons will come up as the valves go down. You *really* dont want a bent valve. This type of job is expensive to get done at a normal shop or dealership. It's less expensive at a speedshop but you're still talking $650+ or more with the new springs. If you want to do it yourself, I seriously suggest you find those picture instructions. Get every tool\gasket\bolt you need and follow the instructions exactly. Don't take any short cuts. Good luck.
#5
RE: cams?
I had the stage 2 camshafts installed. You MUST do new valvesprings if you get stage 2. Stage 1 springs arn't nessiscarry. The bad part about stage 2 is that they are really set up to pull hard on the top of the RPM band. With a stock shortblock, you are better off getting stage 1s. My shop had never done a cam swap before, and they were unable to get a good tune on it. I acutually lost some power down low.
Unless you are planning on replacing the bottom end I would go with stage 1s. They never really say that on their website, but its just how it works out. They were built to rev to 6500+.
It cost me 1000 bucks to get the cams installed, buy a chip from the shop, and have em dyno tune it. They also had to buy a special spring compressor tool to get the vavlesprings out.
Also, remeber that you need new cam sprokets. VT didn't say that on their website and it took a few extra days without my car to get them in and installed.
The camshafts themseleves were high quality. I had some problems getting them shipped (VT was going thru an owner change) but other than that I have no problems with VT.
Unless you are planning on replacing the bottom end I would go with stage 1s. They never really say that on their website, but its just how it works out. They were built to rev to 6500+.
It cost me 1000 bucks to get the cams installed, buy a chip from the shop, and have em dyno tune it. They also had to buy a special spring compressor tool to get the vavlesprings out.
Also, remeber that you need new cam sprokets. VT didn't say that on their website and it took a few extra days without my car to get them in and installed.
The camshafts themseleves were high quality. I had some problems getting them shipped (VT was going thru an owner change) but other than that I have no problems with VT.
#8
RE: cams?
vt stage 2 Blower cam here
...with patriot stage 2 heads i got +75 (370 to 447) at the wheels no air flow across i/c and short pulls to 5800. that was with the stock short block...when i put in the new forged motor next week i hope to rev it higher and get a little more.
the previous owner installed them both (heads and cams) himself, but he knew what he was doing. if you have to ask this question its safe to say you should take it to a shop.
Fallstar and 2000GT made good points
...with patriot stage 2 heads i got +75 (370 to 447) at the wheels no air flow across i/c and short pulls to 5800. that was with the stock short block...when i put in the new forged motor next week i hope to rev it higher and get a little more.
the previous owner installed them both (heads and cams) himself, but he knew what he was doing. if you have to ask this question its safe to say you should take it to a shop.
Fallstar and 2000GT made good points
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junior04
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang
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09-28-2015 10:53 AM