Got rid of traction control!!!
04-12-2008, 12:10 PM
#12
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
RE: Got rid of traction control!!!
I think all that has been done is to turn on the LED--here's the wiring diagram for the switch...
The light blue/red wire is power from the illumination B+ circuit, and the black/blue wire is the "ground" (cathode)lead of the t/c LED. The anode of the LED is connected to full battery voltage (12V). With the lights off the t/c LED is being grounded through the cluster illumination lamps, and with the lights on (and since the illumination is all run through the dimmer rheostat) the voltage there is always less than 10V--the difference being enough to illuminate the t/c LED.
The t/c itself is controlled by the momentary contact single pole switch which when pressed pulls the voltage at the ungrounded end of the resistor (the gray wire)in the cluster electronics high, signaling the cluster that the switch has been pressed. The microprocessor in the cluster then toggles the state of the traction control. It is unlikely that the t/c on/off logic was damaged as the input tied to the gray wire is designed to "see" +12V.
However the internal "switch" (in the cluster electronics) that normally turns the t/c LED on and off is probably just a TTL or CMOS gate ("solid state" switch), designed to switch the LED's cathode to ground.This gate could(and probably would) be damaged by applying non-current limited+12V to it--which would happen if the pink/black wire was shorted to the gray wire. Thisis likely the reason the LED won't "turn on" anymore without your shunt.
Shorting the light blue/red wire to the gray could maybe blow the solid state switch, with out knowing the exact nature of the illumination circuit's voltage and current capabilities there is no way of knowing.
So, I think what has been accomplished is that the t/c LED is on all the time because of the shunt,the traction control will still be on when you start the car (and pressing the button will turn it off)--but once you lose count of how many times the button has been pressed there will no indication of the true state of the t/c.
The light blue/red wire is power from the illumination B+ circuit, and the black/blue wire is the "ground" (cathode)lead of the t/c LED. The anode of the LED is connected to full battery voltage (12V). With the lights off the t/c LED is being grounded through the cluster illumination lamps, and with the lights on (and since the illumination is all run through the dimmer rheostat) the voltage there is always less than 10V--the difference being enough to illuminate the t/c LED.
The t/c itself is controlled by the momentary contact single pole switch which when pressed pulls the voltage at the ungrounded end of the resistor (the gray wire)in the cluster electronics high, signaling the cluster that the switch has been pressed. The microprocessor in the cluster then toggles the state of the traction control. It is unlikely that the t/c on/off logic was damaged as the input tied to the gray wire is designed to "see" +12V.
However the internal "switch" (in the cluster electronics) that normally turns the t/c LED on and off is probably just a TTL or CMOS gate ("solid state" switch), designed to switch the LED's cathode to ground.This gate could(and probably would) be damaged by applying non-current limited+12V to it--which would happen if the pink/black wire was shorted to the gray wire. Thisis likely the reason the LED won't "turn on" anymore without your shunt.
Shorting the light blue/red wire to the gray could maybe blow the solid state switch, with out knowing the exact nature of the illumination circuit's voltage and current capabilities there is no way of knowing.
So, I think what has been accomplished is that the t/c LED is on all the time because of the shunt,the traction control will still be on when you start the car (and pressing the button will turn it off)--but once you lose count of how many times the button has been pressed there will no indication of the true state of the t/c.
Last edited by cliffyk; 10-23-2012 at 07:36 AM.
04-12-2008, 12:33 PM
#13
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Where gunshots are more common than birds chirping
Posts: 504
RE: Got rid of traction control!!!
i'll drive with TC off sleet, snow, hail
driving around in the snow with 555R's barely any tread was a pain in the ***, but you can do it without the help of computer technology. you'll never get caught with your pants down and you never have to worry about the car pulling spark, fuel, or adding brakes when you don't want it to.
driving around in the snow with 555R's barely any tread was a pain in the ***, but you can do it without the help of computer technology. you'll never get caught with your pants down and you never have to worry about the car pulling spark, fuel, or adding brakes when you don't want it to.
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