MIL Eliminators
#1
MIL Eliminators
I'm about to install an o/r H-pipe and Borla Stingers on my '03 Cobra andI have to get the O2 simulators/MIL Eliminators, or whatever you want to call them. I have no idea where to look or what to look for. Does anybody know where to find the cheapest set that will work with this?
#2
RE: MIL Eliminators
BBK 02 extentions were only $32 I think on AM, and you're generally gonna pay out your...yeah for your MIL eliminators. The gov't cracked down on distribution of them, being illegal. Check around google, you'll find a set for around $60 generally.
A member on here has a writeup on how to make your own MIL's for a fraction of the price, i'm sure someone will chime in with the link.
edit: Found it.
It's cliffyk's website. Awesome writeup on DIY MIL's
http://paladinmicro.com/PalMFrame00.htm?wks=
(In the sidebar)
A member on here has a writeup on how to make your own MIL's for a fraction of the price, i'm sure someone will chime in with the link.
edit: Found it.
It's cliffyk's website. Awesome writeup on DIY MIL's
http://paladinmicro.com/PalMFrame00.htm?wks=
(In the sidebar)
#3
RE: MIL Eliminators
You could also get a handheld flash tuner to turn off your o2 sensors.
its gonna cost more than $60.00, but it does a LOT more and when you program for your snake you will gain a decent amount of rescued hp
just my .02
its gonna cost more than $60.00, but it does a LOT more and when you program for your snake you will gain a decent amount of rescued hp
just my .02
#4
RE: MIL Eliminators
ORIGINAL: chrisconsin
You could also get a handheld flash tuner to turn off your o2 sensors.
its gonna cost more than $60.00, but it does a LOT more and when you program for your snake you will gain a decent amount of rescued hp
just my .02
You could also get a handheld flash tuner to turn off your o2 sensors.
its gonna cost more than $60.00, but it does a LOT more and when you program for your snake you will gain a decent amount of rescued hp
just my .02
#5
RE: MIL Eliminators
just so you know, there have been people on here that said that MILs didn't work so it is a gamble to get them as sometimes they work and sometimes they don't... i say just get a tuner
#6
RE: MIL Eliminators
ORIGINAL: bjh061487
just so you know, there have been people on here that said that MILs didn't work so it is a gamble to get them as sometimes they work and sometimes they don't... i say just get a tuner
just so you know, there have been people on here that said that MILs didn't work so it is a gamble to get them as sometimes they work and sometimes they don't... i say just get a tuner
#7
RE: MIL Eliminators
The tuner is definitely the way I want to go, but since I decided to get the stingers instead of the flowmasters (easily a $300 difference), I'll have to put it off for a while. I was thinking of just waiting until I saved up to do it all at one, but I know once the full exhaust system gets in I won't be able to stand it!!
#8
RE: MIL Eliminators
just make your own, 10 bucks at radioshack and 15 minutes out of your day, then another 5 to install.
incase you want too here you go.....
The parts/part numbers from radio shack that you will need are:
#2760148 - PC Board - 1 Package will do. You can break the board in half.
#2721434 - Tantalum Capacitor - You need 2 of these
#2711356 - This is a 5 pack of 1 mega ohm resistors. One pack is enough.
You will also need 20 guage wire(25 ft. or so), electrical tape, solder, and a soldering iron. If you don't have these items they can also be bought at radioshack.
You will need to remove your stock rear O2 sensors for this process.
Start by carefully cutting off the outer sheathing from the O2 sensor wiring. Once it is off you will notice that there are 4 different wires -- A Gray wire, a Black Wire, and two White wires. You will want to mark one of the white wires because they will have to be matched up in their original configuration when everything is soldered back together.
Next cut through all 4 wire mid way between the connector and the O2 sensor. You will now have 2 separate pieces. Strip the end of all of the wires so that you have about a half inch exposed on each wire.
Cut 4 equal strips of 20 guage wire and strip the ends of these as well( the length you need will depend on how much of an extenison you need -- each brand of midpipe mounts the O2 Bungs in different spots). I used about 2 1/2 feet for each wire.
You will now twist/solder these wires to the two halves of the O2 wiring harness so that it seems you have now just extended the wiring harness. Be sure to pay special attention to matching the wires up correctly. You wouldn't want a black wire now connected to a different color.
Tape up each solder point so that the wires don't touch each other. After each section is tapped you can then add another layer of tape around the entire area for extra strength.
The next step will be to cut the black and gray wire in the middle of the harness(the harness should now be about 3 feet long total and you will want to cut in the middle area so that you can tie wrap it up later away from hot exhaust areas).
Go ahead and strip the wires in the same fashion as before and now you are going to follow the wiring diagram. Solder everything to the pc board as shown in the picture. Be sure to solder on the side of the board that has the little copper circles. The solder will hold everything tight to the copper area.
After everything is soldered up wrap the entire wire area of the harness with the electrical tape. Once all of the steps have been completed you should see the two ends(one the connector and the other the O2 sensors) with electrical tapped wire from end to end.
Undo your battery terminals so that the car has now power.
Screw the sensors back into the pipe and plug the conector ends back into the car.
After getting the sensors plugged back up about 5 minutes should have passed. Put the terminals back onto the battery and you are good to go.
incase you want too here you go.....
The parts/part numbers from radio shack that you will need are:
#2760148 - PC Board - 1 Package will do. You can break the board in half.
#2721434 - Tantalum Capacitor - You need 2 of these
#2711356 - This is a 5 pack of 1 mega ohm resistors. One pack is enough.
You will also need 20 guage wire(25 ft. or so), electrical tape, solder, and a soldering iron. If you don't have these items they can also be bought at radioshack.
You will need to remove your stock rear O2 sensors for this process.
Start by carefully cutting off the outer sheathing from the O2 sensor wiring. Once it is off you will notice that there are 4 different wires -- A Gray wire, a Black Wire, and two White wires. You will want to mark one of the white wires because they will have to be matched up in their original configuration when everything is soldered back together.
Next cut through all 4 wire mid way between the connector and the O2 sensor. You will now have 2 separate pieces. Strip the end of all of the wires so that you have about a half inch exposed on each wire.
Cut 4 equal strips of 20 guage wire and strip the ends of these as well( the length you need will depend on how much of an extenison you need -- each brand of midpipe mounts the O2 Bungs in different spots). I used about 2 1/2 feet for each wire.
You will now twist/solder these wires to the two halves of the O2 wiring harness so that it seems you have now just extended the wiring harness. Be sure to pay special attention to matching the wires up correctly. You wouldn't want a black wire now connected to a different color.
Tape up each solder point so that the wires don't touch each other. After each section is tapped you can then add another layer of tape around the entire area for extra strength.
The next step will be to cut the black and gray wire in the middle of the harness(the harness should now be about 3 feet long total and you will want to cut in the middle area so that you can tie wrap it up later away from hot exhaust areas).
Go ahead and strip the wires in the same fashion as before and now you are going to follow the wiring diagram. Solder everything to the pc board as shown in the picture. Be sure to solder on the side of the board that has the little copper circles. The solder will hold everything tight to the copper area.
After everything is soldered up wrap the entire wire area of the harness with the electrical tape. Once all of the steps have been completed you should see the two ends(one the connector and the other the O2 sensors) with electrical tapped wire from end to end.
Undo your battery terminals so that the car has now power.
Screw the sensors back into the pipe and plug the conector ends back into the car.
After getting the sensors plugged back up about 5 minutes should have passed. Put the terminals back onto the battery and you are good to go.