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GT Buying Guide?
#1
GT Buying Guide?
Hey guys, so I've been a member of the V6 community but a couple weeks ago my car was rear-ended and it seems like my car's going to be totalled... so I figured this would be the perfect time to go for the GT. I'm just wondering now that I've been browsing, what are the big mileage markers where stuff starts to go out, what Ford recalls have there been so I know which parts to look for, and what other typical problems should I look for on the GT? My price range is finding cars ranging from 50k miles all the way to 180k, so I'm just wondering where things start to look rocky. My sixxer had a little over 95k with good maintenance and I had no problems with it so I would assume the same goes pretty much for the GT. Also been looking into LSx's and some early 2000's Bimmers, but I'd like to stick with the Mustang community for a while.
#2
RE: GT Buying Guide?
Don't worry about recalls. If it's covered it would have been fixed by now. Your price range will determine what mileage and condition your limited to. What ever price they are asking take it down 2 grand and say thats all I can spend. Thats normal mark up on used cars, at least in my area.
100K is break in time on a well maintained vehicle.
100K is break in time on a well maintained vehicle.
#3
RE: GT Buying Guide?
recommend a nice clean lowest mileage GT you can find within your price range. Recommend under 100K, ideally 60K-70 would be ideal if you do not have alot of $$$$ as brakes need replacing around 50K or so.
#4
RE: GT Buying Guide?
I'm biased, but my opinion is that for the same price range, actually a little bit cheaper, you can get a 96-98 Cobra. That's what I did. A lot of times you find them for sale from middle-aged guys that really took care of them. Because Cobras were so expensive new, a lot of young punks couldn't afford them so they're not ragged out. Cobras are built better. Not to mention it takes a lot of mods to make up the 70hp difference between a GT and a Cobra. So usually, they are the best bang for the buck. Plus they have things that just make it a better car: stock strut tower brace, Cobra sway bars, Cobra brakes, aluminum engine, forged crank, etc. Did I mention 70hp more than a GT? I can beatmost full bolt on GT's and I'm pretty freaking close to stock. Think about it, start adding up the price of mods and the expected HP increase per mod, 70 HP equals a lot of money. Mach 1's are nice, but they're a little more expensive. Keep us posted on what you go with.
#5
RE: GT Buying Guide?
ORIGINAL: jlg32281
I'm biased, but my opinion is that for the same price range, actually a little bit cheaper, you can get a 96-98 Cobra. That's what I did. A lot of times you find them for sale from middle-aged guys that really took care of them. Because Cobras were so expensive new, a lot of young punks couldn't afford them so they're not ragged out. Cobras are built better. Not to mention it takes a lot of mods to make up the 70hp difference between a GT and a Cobra. So usually, they are the best bang for the buck. Plus they have things that just make it a better car: stock strut tower brace, Cobra sway bars, Cobra brakes, aluminum engine, forged crank, etc. Did I mention 70hp more than a GT? I can beatmost full bolt on GT's and I'm pretty freaking close to stock. Think about it, start adding up the price of mods and the expected HP increase per mod, 70 HP equals a lot of money. Mach 1's are nice, but they're a little more expensive. Keep us posted on what you go with.
I'm biased, but my opinion is that for the same price range, actually a little bit cheaper, you can get a 96-98 Cobra. That's what I did. A lot of times you find them for sale from middle-aged guys that really took care of them. Because Cobras were so expensive new, a lot of young punks couldn't afford them so they're not ragged out. Cobras are built better. Not to mention it takes a lot of mods to make up the 70hp difference between a GT and a Cobra. So usually, they are the best bang for the buck. Plus they have things that just make it a better car: stock strut tower brace, Cobra sway bars, Cobra brakes, aluminum engine, forged crank, etc. Did I mention 70hp more than a GT? I can beatmost full bolt on GT's and I'm pretty freaking close to stock. Think about it, start adding up the price of mods and the expected HP increase per mod, 70 HP equals a lot of money. Mach 1's are nice, but they're a little more expensive. Keep us posted on what you go with.
#6
RE: GT Buying Guide?
Alright, thanks for the advice on the Cobras, I actually just checked Autotrader and there's a '97 with 76k miles in my area for $7,800 asking, so I'll have to check it out this weekend. Anything to look for on these then? What was the whole head gasket thing with the SN95's? Just V6's?
What do you mean that the brakes go around 50k? Not like the brake pads right? The actual brake calipers? Or Rotors?
What do you mean that the brakes go around 50k? Not like the brake pads right? The actual brake calipers? Or Rotors?
#7
RE: GT Buying Guide?
ORIGINAL: Cmpfreak88
What do you mean that the brakes go around 50k? Not like the brake pads right? The actual brake calipers? Or Rotors?
What do you mean that the brakes go around 50k? Not like the brake pads right? The actual brake calipers? Or Rotors?
#8
RE: GT Buying Guide?
I would look for the usual things, general condition things. Check all fluids and give it a good once over. There is no way to eliminate risk when buying a used car. You can take it to a mechanic, most do a pre-purchase inspection where they'll test vacuum and compression and give it a really good look if you're not confident in your own skills. They usually charge between $40-100. It's very common for the stock suspension to be saggy, or spongy. You can use that to bargain. It's not a big deal at all, I just upgraded my suspension, it's in my sig. but it only cost $500 for a great setup. Let me know if you have any other questions.
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