What would cause my engine to slightly miss like this at low rpm?
#1
What would cause my engine to slightly miss like this at low rpm?
What would cause my engine to do this?
While in park at low rpm (duh = normal engine sound) the engine misses a quick beat after about 4-5 seconds.
duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh ... duh duh duh duh
duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh ... duh duh duh duh
duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh ... duh duh duh duh
ALSO, while driving normally and ever so slightly accerating, I get a sputter while accerating that last as long as I'm in the rpm zone.
At normal to high rpm's there are no problems.
I've compiled a list of possible solution:
Alternator giving low voltage
Clean MAF with maf cleaner
Clean Air Intake manifold
Make sure Air intake is tight
Clean injectors
Change spark plugs
Check plug wires
Check IAC
While in park at low rpm (duh = normal engine sound) the engine misses a quick beat after about 4-5 seconds.
duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh ... duh duh duh duh
duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh ... duh duh duh duh
duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh duh ... duh duh duh duh
ALSO, while driving normally and ever so slightly accerating, I get a sputter while accerating that last as long as I'm in the rpm zone.
At normal to high rpm's there are no problems.
I've compiled a list of possible solution:
Alternator giving low voltage
Clean MAF with maf cleaner
Clean Air Intake manifold
Make sure Air intake is tight
Clean injectors
Change spark plugs
Check plug wires
Check IAC
#3
Well I've been working on my car today.
I plugged in an ODBII code reader. It said cylinder 1 misfire. So I bought a plug and plugged it in. It seems to run better. But then it seemed to be doing it again after a few hours. I notice it does it more if the AC is on but I think it's because running the AC pulls on the motor taking more energy. I'm going to just replace all the rest of the plugs tommorrow.
In addition I did updates on the following.
Front right strut needs replacing - Update: Front struts ok. Sway bar bushing little worn but ok. The main problem was the front break system had a missing bolt which was causing the piece to making noise. 15 cent bolt to fix.
Emergency brake light turns off and on. - Update: Replaced all brakes and light is no longer showing.
Slight dent on passenger door, door ding on passenger rear wheel well, and scrapes on rear bumper.
Tear in drivers seat.
Stereo volume **** acts funny
I plugged in an ODBII code reader. It said cylinder 1 misfire. So I bought a plug and plugged it in. It seems to run better. But then it seemed to be doing it again after a few hours. I notice it does it more if the AC is on but I think it's because running the AC pulls on the motor taking more energy. I'm going to just replace all the rest of the plugs tommorrow.
In addition I did updates on the following.
Front right strut needs replacing - Update: Front struts ok. Sway bar bushing little worn but ok. The main problem was the front break system had a missing bolt which was causing the piece to making noise. 15 cent bolt to fix.
Emergency brake light turns off and on. - Update: Replaced all brakes and light is no longer showing.
Slight dent on passenger door, door ding on passenger rear wheel well, and scrapes on rear bumper.
Tear in drivers seat.
Stereo volume **** acts funny
#5
Thanks for the advice.
I've replaced all the plugs except for the one on the passenger side located 2nd from the 1firewall. I would have had to take off another bracket. (I'll have to do that some other time. I'm a little tired from sanding a door down and refinishing the same day) So the car seems to be running alot more smoother. At first it was running rougher but I noticed I left off a connector and as soon as i connected it, the engine was running smoother. I turned on the AC and it was still smooth. So next time I drive it I'll be able to see if it stays running smooth.
I've replaced all the plugs except for the one on the passenger side located 2nd from the 1firewall. I would have had to take off another bracket. (I'll have to do that some other time. I'm a little tired from sanding a door down and refinishing the same day) So the car seems to be running alot more smoother. At first it was running rougher but I noticed I left off a connector and as soon as i connected it, the engine was running smoother. I turned on the AC and it was still smooth. So next time I drive it I'll be able to see if it stays running smooth.
#7
#8
No problem. I hear you. Believe me I wanted to change it but got super frustrated with the plug on the passenger side nearest the fire wall. The rubber spark protective cover kept sliding off the metal ring coil and I finally got that on. I was wanting to research how to take off the chrome bracket that keeps the injectors stable first, since they where in the way of the 2nd to the firewall plug on the passenger side. I don't know if there's a delicate way to pull the injectors off.
On the drive to work, my car started doing the slight miss fire or sputter at low rpm's again. I'm wondering if the car is running to rich. Maybe I need to clean the air filter? When I press the gas pedal and let the engine rev up to 5000 then let it settle back down, it seems to help the sputter go away when its at low rpm. I also have a new fuel filter sitting in my back seat. I'll have to replace those filters.
On the drive to work, my car started doing the slight miss fire or sputter at low rpm's again. I'm wondering if the car is running to rich. Maybe I need to clean the air filter? When I press the gas pedal and let the engine rev up to 5000 then let it settle back down, it seems to help the sputter go away when its at low rpm. I also have a new fuel filter sitting in my back seat. I'll have to replace those filters.