MustangForums.com - HOW-To: Baer 13inch rear brake upgrade.

How- To: Baer Eradispeed- Plus One 13” rear rotor upgrade

Total Cost:[/b] $360 (includes shipping)

Baer Upgrade kit: $269
Hawk HPS Rear Pads: $64.99
Took 3 days to arrive to my house

Ordered from:[/b] Brother’s Performance
(www.brothersperformance.com)

Tools Needed: [/b]
Wrenches: 13mm, 15mm, and two ¾ standard
Sockets: 13mm, 15mm, and ¾
Other tools: Flat Head Screw Driver
Needle Nose Pliers
*****Large Allen head (hex head) key. You will need a bigger Allen key then what’s found in the standard Craftsman Allen head key set.
(use the Socket Head Bolt in the Baer Brake Kit to find the Allen key needed)

Total Time for install:[/b] 4 hours
**** With these instructions, you should be able to do the install in about an hour.****
(Only if you know your way with a wrench)

Notes:[/b] The Baer Instructions are great but don’t account for having to install new rear pads. This is the reason why it took me about an extra hour to install.

A picture before the upgrade: [/b]
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...2/P1010051.jpg

After the upgrade: [/b]
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...2/P1010071.jpg

Directions: [/b]

[ol][*]
. Suspend the rear of the car in what ever way you typically do it. For example: use a lift, or jack up the rear and put jack stands underneath the car. [/align][*]
Remove your rear wheels. Make sure your parking brake is off (NOTE: Chalk the front wheels if you have a manual trans.)[/align][*]
Disconnect the parking brake line from the rear caliper. Use the flat head screw driver to remove the retaining clip that holds the parking brake line to the caliper. (See Red Arrow, Fig1). Push line through the bracket and disconnect the actual parking brake line from the caliper. (see Black Arrow, Fig 1)[/align][/ol]

*** This is the part left out from the Instructions provided by Baer.***
4. If you are upgrading your rear rotors, you definitely need to get new pads. So this step is important. Loosen the two bolts (13mm wrench or socket) that hold the caliper onto the caliper bracket (Yellow Arrows, Fig 1). Notice that the bolts go through slide pins which allow the caliper to move back and forth “freely” as you apply pressure to the brakes.

Figure 1: [/b]
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...2/Edited-1.jpg

5. Pop out the old brake pads and decompress the brake piston using the needle nose pliers. Open the needle nose pliers just enough so that each nose fits into the “V” indentations on the Piston. Once that is done, use moderate pressure pushing down on the needle nose pliers while turning them clock wise. The piston should rotate and decompress after a few revolutions. Make sure that when the piston is decompressed the “V” indentations are at the 12 and 6 o’clock positions. (if this part was too brief, refer to a shop manual on changing the rear brake pads.)

6. Once you are finished with step 5, use a wire hanger or zip tie to support the caliper and to move it out of your way. Do not let the caliper dangle or hang by the brake line!

7. Use a 15mm Socket or Wrench to remove the caliper bracket (Yellow arrow, Fig 2)

8. Remove old rotor.

9. Use a 13mm Socket or Wrench to remove/ loosen Noise Dampener brace (Red arrow, fig 2)

Figure 2: [/b]
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...P1010053-1.jpg

(Note: The Baer Instructions say that you might have to shave or cut some of the end of the noise dampener brace off to allow the intermediate bracket to fit. The lower control arm brace will block the noise dampener and will not allow you put the intermediate bracket in between the axle caliper bracket and the dampener. Cut off what you need to make it fit. I did not have to cut anything and had about an extra inch of clearance so complete removal was not necessary. (Yellow arrow, Fig 3)

10. If you have to, reinstall the noise dampener brace, but don’t tighten it.

10b.
You need to cut an inch off the dust shield on both sides so that the caliper in the new position willclear the shield.
See fig.
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...P1010060-1.jpg

11. Install the intermediate bracket by placing the bracket in between the noise dampener bracket and the axle housing bracket using two ¾ wrenches and the 12mm x 50mm bolts that do not have the locktight coating on them. Install the bolts facing out away from the car and the nuts facing in towards the car. (Red arrows, fig 3)

12. Torque the 12mm x 50mm bolts to 85ft/lbs if you can. I could not due to my torque wrench and clearance issues with everything else, so I just tightened the heck out of it.

13. Tighten the U-bolt on the noise dampener bracket using a 13mm socket. There are no torque specs on this, just make sure the dampener is tight and the threading on both sides are even. (blue arrows, fig 3)
14. Install your new rotors and make sure you have them going the right way. They should be market.

15. Install the caliper bracket using the 12mm x 50 mm bolt and washer (has red locktight on the threads) in the top hole that is not recessed. Don’t tighten at this moment. (Top green arrow, Fig 3)

16. Screw the Allen head 12mm x 30mm bolt, which also has locktight on it, into the recessed hole and tighten. This is where you will need to use the huge Allen key. (bottom green arrow, Fig 3

(Note: through searching other forums, I found one instructional where the personused his stock bolt instead of the Allen head bolt. I don’t see how he use this and still be able to hook up the parking brake cable. )

17. Tighten both caliper bracket bolts to 85ft/lbs if you can. Again, I had to muscle it.

18. Next, while you can, check the brake slider pins and make sure they are well lubed and slid in and out freely. If they don’t slide, you will have to buy a new bracket ($35 at AAP) because this will cause your brakes to not function correctly. ( pink arrows, Fig 3)

Figure 3: [/b]
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...P1010061-1.jpg

19. Clean the rotor with brake cleaner.

20. Install your new brake pads on the caliper bracket. Make sure to re-install the little metal claps from the old pads.

21. Follow the Hawk instruction on where to place the brake grease so that your new brakes don’t squeak.

22. Install the caliper making sure to not get any of the brake grease on your rotors. If the caliper does not fit over the pads and rotors, see step 5.

23. Tighten the caliper to the caliper bracket slider pins using a 13mm socket. (blue arrow, Fig 4)

Figure 4:
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...P1010068-1.jpg

24. Reinstall the parking brake line using the old clipyou took off. If you don’t have enough cable to make it to the caliper, don’t worry. I ran into this problem.

1. Loosen the parking brake bracket bolt shown in Fig 5, red arrow with an 8mm socket.
2. Push parking brake cable (big green arrow) through the frame while pulling on the parking brake cable (small green arrow). This will give you enough cable to reattach the parking brake cable to the brake caliper.
3. Reinstall the braking brake bracket to the floor

Figure 5:
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...P1010069-1.jpg

25. Install your wheels and take a step back! You’re done.

Next to do: Paint the rear calipers red to match the front. See fig 6:

Figure 6: Baer Declarotors w/cobra calipers. Also purchased at Brother’s
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/l...2/IMG_0255.jpg