Replacing front calipers
06-18-2008, 11:36 AM
#3
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Join Date: Mar 2008
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Posts: 1,600
RE: Replacing front calipers
I did this a couple months ago. Compress the brake piston with a big c clamp or channel lock pliers to loosen the pressure off the pads.After you take the caliperoffthe bracket, you will need to disconnect the brake line. Transfer the brake line onto the new caliper and bolt the caliper back on. Then you will need someone to help you bleed the brakes. This wasn't that bad of a job from what I remember. Just post something if you need help.
06-18-2008, 12:20 PM
#4
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RE: Replacing front calipers
You should be able to get the caliper off of the bracket without trying to figure out how to compress the pistons back in..
1. Disconnect Negative Battery cable
2. Open Master cylinder cover, but do not remove completely
3. Crack looselug nuts, but do not remove completely
4. Raise and support vehicle with appropriate jack stands
5. Remove wheel and set aside, you'll need it later
6. Loosen and remove brake line from caliper using appropriate sized wrench. Place drain pan under the line to prevent a mess, unless you like that sort of thing.
7. On the back of the Caliper, there are 4 bolts; 2 Larger (hold the bracket that holds the caliper itself) and 2 smaller ones (hold the guide-pins that hold the caliper in place). Focus on the 2 smaller ones, that have rubber boots near them. You will need (estimation, it's been a while), a 14mm socket and a open-ended wrench (aka cresent wrench) of the appropriate size. An adjustable wrench or good vice grips would work, but I recommend a wrench. Remove those 2 bolts and set aside in a safe place.
8. Now, since there isn't any pressure on the caliper pistons, since you removed the brake lines, the caliper should just slide off of the rotor, from the top. Watch your fingers for pinch points, and the pads falling out (if clips are broken or pads aren't tightly in there). You may need to compress the 2 small anchor points (guide-pins) to get it out, but hopefully you shouldn't. Set aside old caliper.
9. Now, remember the big bolts that hold the bracket in there?? Time to take them out. I believe it's either a 17mm or an 18mm socket. These can be a little tough to crack loose, but a good breaker bar, or a nice pipe on the end of a ratchet should do the trick.. Set those bolts aside, in the same safe place you put the caliper guide pin retaining bolts at.
10. If you're using the same rotor, remove, and inspect mating surfaces and make sure there aren't any heat cracks or heat marks, showing signs of excessive wear.
11. Depending on the new caliper, it may be assembled with the caliper mounting bracket already on there. For the ease of installation, you can omit all of the previous steps, and just use step 9 to reinstall.
12. REMEMBER THIS IMPORTANT STEP!!!! The bleed screw for the caliper must be facing UP!!! Depending on the caliper, and it's assembly, you may not be able to mount it any other way on the steering knuckle, so just make sure you have that facing up.
13. Once caliper and bracket are mounted, replace brake line. Tight's tight, too tight's broken. If you were given a copper looking washer, REMEMBER TO USE IT!!!! It's the only seal you'll have on the those brake lines..
14. Open up the bleed screw, and top off Master cylinder resevoir.
15.Go grab yourself a frosty beverage, and allow the car to gravity bleed for about 20-30 minutes.
16. Once you feel it's gravity bled enough, close bleed screw, and grab another person. Have person pump brakes repeatedly, and then hold all the way down. Open the bleed screw, and watch bubbles, and fluid come out. CLOSE THE BLEED SCREW and then have person in the car, lift up on the brake pedal. It's okay, it will sink to the floor while you're doing this. They may very well have to lift up manually on the pedal.
17. Repeat process until brake pedal doesn't feel spongy.
Now... Note to you.. If you're doing more than one caliper, when you start the bleeding process, ALWAYS START WITH THE CALIPER FURTHEST FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER. Also, Don't forget to clean off the rotors of any brake fluid/contaminants before driving, and before you actually start driving, pump the brakes a few times, to re-seat the new/original brake pads.
I just typed these up quickly right now from memory. I haven't done Mustang brakes in about 3-4 years, so bear with me, I may have missed a small thing or 2..
JT
1. Disconnect Negative Battery cable
2. Open Master cylinder cover, but do not remove completely
3. Crack looselug nuts, but do not remove completely
4. Raise and support vehicle with appropriate jack stands
5. Remove wheel and set aside, you'll need it later
6. Loosen and remove brake line from caliper using appropriate sized wrench. Place drain pan under the line to prevent a mess, unless you like that sort of thing.
7. On the back of the Caliper, there are 4 bolts; 2 Larger (hold the bracket that holds the caliper itself) and 2 smaller ones (hold the guide-pins that hold the caliper in place). Focus on the 2 smaller ones, that have rubber boots near them. You will need (estimation, it's been a while), a 14mm socket and a open-ended wrench (aka cresent wrench) of the appropriate size. An adjustable wrench or good vice grips would work, but I recommend a wrench. Remove those 2 bolts and set aside in a safe place.
8. Now, since there isn't any pressure on the caliper pistons, since you removed the brake lines, the caliper should just slide off of the rotor, from the top. Watch your fingers for pinch points, and the pads falling out (if clips are broken or pads aren't tightly in there). You may need to compress the 2 small anchor points (guide-pins) to get it out, but hopefully you shouldn't. Set aside old caliper.
9. Now, remember the big bolts that hold the bracket in there?? Time to take them out. I believe it's either a 17mm or an 18mm socket. These can be a little tough to crack loose, but a good breaker bar, or a nice pipe on the end of a ratchet should do the trick.. Set those bolts aside, in the same safe place you put the caliper guide pin retaining bolts at.
10. If you're using the same rotor, remove, and inspect mating surfaces and make sure there aren't any heat cracks or heat marks, showing signs of excessive wear.
11. Depending on the new caliper, it may be assembled with the caliper mounting bracket already on there. For the ease of installation, you can omit all of the previous steps, and just use step 9 to reinstall.
12. REMEMBER THIS IMPORTANT STEP!!!! The bleed screw for the caliper must be facing UP!!! Depending on the caliper, and it's assembly, you may not be able to mount it any other way on the steering knuckle, so just make sure you have that facing up.
13. Once caliper and bracket are mounted, replace brake line. Tight's tight, too tight's broken. If you were given a copper looking washer, REMEMBER TO USE IT!!!! It's the only seal you'll have on the those brake lines..
14. Open up the bleed screw, and top off Master cylinder resevoir.
15.Go grab yourself a frosty beverage, and allow the car to gravity bleed for about 20-30 minutes.
16. Once you feel it's gravity bled enough, close bleed screw, and grab another person. Have person pump brakes repeatedly, and then hold all the way down. Open the bleed screw, and watch bubbles, and fluid come out. CLOSE THE BLEED SCREW and then have person in the car, lift up on the brake pedal. It's okay, it will sink to the floor while you're doing this. They may very well have to lift up manually on the pedal.
17. Repeat process until brake pedal doesn't feel spongy.
Now... Note to you.. If you're doing more than one caliper, when you start the bleeding process, ALWAYS START WITH THE CALIPER FURTHEST FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER. Also, Don't forget to clean off the rotors of any brake fluid/contaminants before driving, and before you actually start driving, pump the brakes a few times, to re-seat the new/original brake pads.
I just typed these up quickly right now from memory. I haven't done Mustang brakes in about 3-4 years, so bear with me, I may have missed a small thing or 2..
JT
06-18-2008, 12:57 PM
#5
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Illinois
Posts: 171
RE: Replacing front calipers
Thank you guys so much! I have done a brake job on my Mustang before, but I have never had to replace the calipers. I wanted to make sure that was everything. Thank you guys again and I will let you know how it goes.
06-18-2008, 01:00 PM
#6
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: SF Bay.
Posts: 3,035
RE: Replacing front calipers
ORIGINAL: GodAmGT00
You should be able to get the caliper off of the bracket without trying to figure out how to compress the pistons back in..
1. Disconnect Negative Battery cable
2. Open Master cylinder cover, but do not remove completely
3. Crack looselug nuts, but do not remove completely
4. Raise and support vehicle with appropriate jack stands
5. Remove wheel and set aside, you'll need it later
6. Loosen and remove brake line from caliper using appropriate sized wrench. Place drain pan under the line to prevent a mess, unless you like that sort of thing.
7. On the back of the Caliper, there are 4 bolts; 2 Larger (hold the bracket that holds the caliper itself) and 2 smaller ones (hold the guide-pins that hold the caliper in place). Focus on the 2 smaller ones, that have rubber boots near them. You will need (estimation, it's been a while), a 14mm socket and a open-ended wrench (aka cresent wrench) of the appropriate size. An adjustable wrench or good vice grips would work, but I recommend a wrench. Remove those 2 bolts and set aside in a safe place.
8. Now, since there isn't any pressure on the caliper pistons, since you removed the brake lines, the caliper should just slide off of the rotor, from the top. Watch your fingers for pinch points, and the pads falling out (if clips are broken or pads aren't tightly in there). You may need to compress the 2 small anchor points (guide-pins) to get it out, but hopefully you shouldn't. Set aside old caliper.
9. Now, remember the big bolts that hold the bracket in there?? Time to take them out. I believe it's either a 17mm or an 18mm socket. These can be a little tough to crack loose, but a good breaker bar, or a nice pipe on the end of a ratchet should do the trick.. Set those bolts aside, in the same safe place you put the caliper guide pin retaining bolts at.
10. If you're using the same rotor, remove, and inspect mating surfaces and make sure there aren't any heat cracks or heat marks, showing signs of excessive wear.
11. Depending on the new caliper, it may be assembled with the caliper mounting bracket already on there. For the ease of installation, you can omit all of the previous steps, and just use step 9 to reinstall.
12. REMEMBER THIS IMPORTANT STEP!!!! The bleed screw for the caliper must be facing UP!!! Depending on the caliper, and it's assembly, you may not be able to mount it any other way on the steering knuckle, so just make sure you have that facing up.
13. Once caliper and bracket are mounted, replace brake line. Tight's tight, too tight's broken. If you were given a copper looking washer, REMEMBER TO USE IT!!!! It's the only seal you'll have on the those brake lines..
14. Open up the bleed screw, and top off Master cylinder resevoir.
15.Go grab yourself a frosty beverage, and allow the car to gravity bleed for about 20-30 minutes.
16. Once you feel it's gravity bled enough, close bleed screw, and grab another person. Have person pump brakes repeatedly, and then hold all the way down. Open the bleed screw, and watch bubbles, and fluid come out. CLOSE THE BLEED SCREW and then have person in the car, lift up on the brake pedal. It's okay, it will sink to the floor while you're doing this. They may very well have to lift up manually on the pedal.
17. Repeat process until brake pedal doesn't feel spongy.
Now... Note to you.. If you're doing more than one caliper, when you start the bleeding process, ALWAYS START WITH THE CALIPER FURTHEST FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER. Also, Don't forget to clean off the rotors of any brake fluid/contaminants before driving, and before you actually start driving, pump the brakes a few times, to re-seat the new/original brake pads.
I just typed these up quickly right now from memory. I haven't done Mustang brakes in about 3-4 years, so bear with me, I may have missed a small thing or 2..
JT
You should be able to get the caliper off of the bracket without trying to figure out how to compress the pistons back in..
1. Disconnect Negative Battery cable
2. Open Master cylinder cover, but do not remove completely
3. Crack looselug nuts, but do not remove completely
4. Raise and support vehicle with appropriate jack stands
5. Remove wheel and set aside, you'll need it later
6. Loosen and remove brake line from caliper using appropriate sized wrench. Place drain pan under the line to prevent a mess, unless you like that sort of thing.
7. On the back of the Caliper, there are 4 bolts; 2 Larger (hold the bracket that holds the caliper itself) and 2 smaller ones (hold the guide-pins that hold the caliper in place). Focus on the 2 smaller ones, that have rubber boots near them. You will need (estimation, it's been a while), a 14mm socket and a open-ended wrench (aka cresent wrench) of the appropriate size. An adjustable wrench or good vice grips would work, but I recommend a wrench. Remove those 2 bolts and set aside in a safe place.
8. Now, since there isn't any pressure on the caliper pistons, since you removed the brake lines, the caliper should just slide off of the rotor, from the top. Watch your fingers for pinch points, and the pads falling out (if clips are broken or pads aren't tightly in there). You may need to compress the 2 small anchor points (guide-pins) to get it out, but hopefully you shouldn't. Set aside old caliper.
9. Now, remember the big bolts that hold the bracket in there?? Time to take them out. I believe it's either a 17mm or an 18mm socket. These can be a little tough to crack loose, but a good breaker bar, or a nice pipe on the end of a ratchet should do the trick.. Set those bolts aside, in the same safe place you put the caliper guide pin retaining bolts at.
10. If you're using the same rotor, remove, and inspect mating surfaces and make sure there aren't any heat cracks or heat marks, showing signs of excessive wear.
11. Depending on the new caliper, it may be assembled with the caliper mounting bracket already on there. For the ease of installation, you can omit all of the previous steps, and just use step 9 to reinstall.
12. REMEMBER THIS IMPORTANT STEP!!!! The bleed screw for the caliper must be facing UP!!! Depending on the caliper, and it's assembly, you may not be able to mount it any other way on the steering knuckle, so just make sure you have that facing up.
13. Once caliper and bracket are mounted, replace brake line. Tight's tight, too tight's broken. If you were given a copper looking washer, REMEMBER TO USE IT!!!! It's the only seal you'll have on the those brake lines..
14. Open up the bleed screw, and top off Master cylinder resevoir.
15.Go grab yourself a frosty beverage, and allow the car to gravity bleed for about 20-30 minutes.
16. Once you feel it's gravity bled enough, close bleed screw, and grab another person. Have person pump brakes repeatedly, and then hold all the way down. Open the bleed screw, and watch bubbles, and fluid come out. CLOSE THE BLEED SCREW and then have person in the car, lift up on the brake pedal. It's okay, it will sink to the floor while you're doing this. They may very well have to lift up manually on the pedal.
17. Repeat process until brake pedal doesn't feel spongy.
Now... Note to you.. If you're doing more than one caliper, when you start the bleeding process, ALWAYS START WITH THE CALIPER FURTHEST FROM THE MASTER CYLINDER. Also, Don't forget to clean off the rotors of any brake fluid/contaminants before driving, and before you actually start driving, pump the brakes a few times, to re-seat the new/original brake pads.
I just typed these up quickly right now from memory. I haven't done Mustang brakes in about 3-4 years, so bear with me, I may have missed a small thing or 2..
JT
I highly recommend spending the extra money on a 1 man bleeder. I have a pump that I bought from kragen for like 20 bucks. Well worth the money. And also, like was said, don't be greedy with the brake cleaner, spray the hell out of it. And from what I remember (been 2 years since I've done the mach 1 brake swap) that was all I did
06-18-2008, 01:04 PM
#7
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: In between Your Mom's Titties, skeet skeet..
Posts: 2,045
RE: Replacing front calipers
Yeah, Speed bleeders or a Mighty-Vac are awesome investments, especially for people who either do brakes a lot, or don't have friends to help out.. Besides, theygreatly reduce time when doing these types of jobs..
Even though Mustang's clutches are mechnical,the also work great on Hydraulic Clutch assemblies.. However, it's not a bad idea to flush your brake system at least once every 20+ thousand miles, depending on the moisture in your environment and tendencyof heating brakes up...
JT
Even though Mustang's clutches are mechnical,the also work great on Hydraulic Clutch assemblies.. However, it's not a bad idea to flush your brake system at least once every 20+ thousand miles, depending on the moisture in your environment and tendencyof heating brakes up...
JT
06-18-2008, 03:57 PM
#9
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: In between Your Mom's Titties, skeet skeet..
Posts: 2,045
RE: Replacing front calipers
Very true.. It's not a true "flare," style fitting on the end of the lines.. I mean, when I say tight, it means get it cranked down, and flush, but don't over muscle it, because then you'll be an "Easy-Out," and a new brake line away from finishing the project..
JT
JT
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