long tube vs short tube header
07-17-2008, 06:45 PM
#11
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
RE: long tube vs short tube header
I would like to have LTs and if I got a set I would install them myself. But I am too old and too lazy to do that, and too cheap to pay $1200 to have someone else do it for me.[/align][/align]A related problem is that I drive 35k to 40k miles a year, and when it's time to do a clutch or other work that requires pulling the transmission one or both of the headers will have to come off (and of course go back on).Having LT headerswill add $1.2k to a lousy clutch jobif you have to pay someone else to do it for you...[/align] [/align]
07-17-2008, 07:12 PM
#12
RE: long tube vs short tube header
ORIGINAL: Eagle2000GT
Excellent advice. Make a plan, build to the plan. I read a post once about a guy who put a in a forged stroker kit, heads, and a high performance cam and was very disappointed with the numbers. He didn't realize that the stroker kit was for more for low end torque, the heads he picked were more mid-range, and his cam was for high rpm performance. All were performance enhancing parts that are often discussed on these forums. He just didn't think about how they would perform together.
ORIGINAL: Dilireus
<personal opinion>
What you should do is establish your goals for your car. (Will use it for drag racing, autocrossing, show, daily driver, other? How much power do you want to make? What route will you take to achieve that power level: N/A, blower, turbo, nitrous? How well do you want it to handle?) Establish an overall budget and think about your cash flow so you can plan your purchases. Once you have your goals and budget defined, choose your parts so that everything is designed to work together. Keep in mind how much power the various parts can handle and identify everything that needs to be upgraded.
A lot of people just start throwing parts on their car to "make it faster" without having an overall vision and end up wasting money when they buy the same parts over again (e.g. - you have to replace the h-pipe because you suddenly decided to go with long tube headers - been there, done that). If you have deep pockets, that's not necessarily a bad thing since other guys with not-so-deep pockets will benefit when you resell your parts cheap because you bought something that you can't use with your new combo.
</personal opinion>
<personal opinion>
What you should do is establish your goals for your car. (Will use it for drag racing, autocrossing, show, daily driver, other? How much power do you want to make? What route will you take to achieve that power level: N/A, blower, turbo, nitrous? How well do you want it to handle?) Establish an overall budget and think about your cash flow so you can plan your purchases. Once you have your goals and budget defined, choose your parts so that everything is designed to work together. Keep in mind how much power the various parts can handle and identify everything that needs to be upgraded.
A lot of people just start throwing parts on their car to "make it faster" without having an overall vision and end up wasting money when they buy the same parts over again (e.g. - you have to replace the h-pipe because you suddenly decided to go with long tube headers - been there, done that). If you have deep pockets, that's not necessarily a bad thing since other guys with not-so-deep pockets will benefit when you resell your parts cheap because you bought something that you can't use with your new combo.
</personal opinion>
Excellent advice. I wish I could have had advice given like this when I first started modding. I didnt blow alot of cash but I still did not know what I wanted out of my car. I'm on the right track now though. Take that advice you'll be happy you did.
07-17-2008, 10:45 PM
#13
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: New York
Posts: 1,178
RE: long tube vs short tube header
LT's offer the best after cams and head work, otherwise you are correct, $1000.+ for less than 10whp but the torque down low is better and the motor more responsive from what experienced vendors have told me but my mods are not yet enough for LT's but getting close.
PS: I am selling a NEW IN THE BOX set of Crower #62811 cams, specs are .532"/.532" and 220224* on the stock 114*LSA, good to 6000+ according to Crower, $350. shipped. They would ofer 20-25whp for a lot less and cams can be changed without removing the front cover with an AFM tool but I would suggest removing the cover the first time to be sure all is correct such as guides as I have seen pics of destroyed guides and not pretty. www.tousleyford.com sells parts tro forum members at 10% over dealer cost so check them out aqnd ask for Steve after 10AM est. Great guy and they readily acceot returns without a hassle. I have a new differential on order, $175. Summit gets $220. for thesame part. 1-800-328-9552. Tell Steve Mark Sweet recommended Tousley! Then you might get more from the $1000. for the headers and install as it is a 7 hour job, maybe more the first time.
PS: I am selling a NEW IN THE BOX set of Crower #62811 cams, specs are .532"/.532" and 220224* on the stock 114*LSA, good to 6000+ according to Crower, $350. shipped. They would ofer 20-25whp for a lot less and cams can be changed without removing the front cover with an AFM tool but I would suggest removing the cover the first time to be sure all is correct such as guides as I have seen pics of destroyed guides and not pretty. www.tousleyford.com sells parts tro forum members at 10% over dealer cost so check them out aqnd ask for Steve after 10AM est. Great guy and they readily acceot returns without a hassle. I have a new differential on order, $175. Summit gets $220. for thesame part. 1-800-328-9552. Tell Steve Mark Sweet recommended Tousley! Then you might get more from the $1000. for the headers and install as it is a 7 hour job, maybe more the first time.
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