Why only one wheel?
#1
Why only one wheel?
First things first, I have 02 Gt 5spd with 31-spline Moser axles and 31-spline centersection, 4.10's, MT ET's 26x10.5, 253HP NA
I went to Fun Ford Weekend Sat and Sunday, and my burnouts were fine on Saturday but on Sunday my left wheel would spin a couple of times then stop. I could feel something was wrong so I let of the brakes and moved up to the line. My launches were fine and I can see that both my tires would spin a little on the launch.
I will load video when I get off work.
What could be wrong?
I went to Fun Ford Weekend Sat and Sunday, and my burnouts were fine on Saturday but on Sunday my left wheel would spin a couple of times then stop. I could feel something was wrong so I let of the brakes and moved up to the line. My launches were fine and I can see that both my tires would spin a little on the launch.
I will load video when I get off work.
What could be wrong?
#3
I agree. You LSD is expiring. The cheap answer is to have it rebuilt. But unless you plan on mot racing, you'll eventually end up in the same position.
I would switch to a Detroit Gear TruTrack. It's a modern version of the old gleason gear drive. No clutch packs, better torque division, no friction modifier needed, and much stronger. If you brake an axle with LSD, it could push you into the wall. With a worm gear, you will just lose power to the wheels, and gently roll to a stop.
The only disadvantage is that in snow, it performs poorly. Get one wheel on ice, and you're not going anywhere.
I have one in my Cobra. I don't drag race much, but it did help the car in the corners. I did break an axle on a hard launch, tyhe engine hit the rev limiter, and it just rolled to a stop.
I would switch to a Detroit Gear TruTrack. It's a modern version of the old gleason gear drive. No clutch packs, better torque division, no friction modifier needed, and much stronger. If you brake an axle with LSD, it could push you into the wall. With a worm gear, you will just lose power to the wheels, and gently roll to a stop.
The only disadvantage is that in snow, it performs poorly. Get one wheel on ice, and you're not going anywhere.
I have one in my Cobra. I don't drag race much, but it did help the car in the corners. I did break an axle on a hard launch, tyhe engine hit the rev limiter, and it just rolled to a stop.
#4
Here is a fix if you are going to replace not rebuild
http://www.jegs.com/i/Ford%20Racing/...F318C/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Ford%20Racing/...F318C/10002/-1
#5
its probably time for a rebuild if you want to go cheap... but depending on how long its been since you changed your diff fluid... your friction modifier may bee worn out... it generally only is supposed to last for 20k miles.... but everyone stretches that..... i use rp rear diff fluid wich has some friction modifier but i also added a bottle of friction modifier to the rp from ford racing and they both spin nicely
#6
I had my rear end redone last spring. Could it have really gone bad that quickly?
Lizzy - thats what I got already!
Royal Purple Max Gear
FMS 4.10
Moser 31 spline axles
FMS Trak-Lok Diff 31T
8.8 Axle Bearings + Seal
Ford 8.8 Bearing Kit
My last gear job, the ring bolts backed out and got lodged in the gears.
Lizzy - thats what I got already!
Royal Purple Max Gear
FMS 4.10
Moser 31 spline axles
FMS Trak-Lok Diff 31T
8.8 Axle Bearings + Seal
Ford 8.8 Bearing Kit
My last gear job, the ring bolts backed out and got lodged in the gears.
Last edited by 02STALKERGT; 08-18-2008 at 01:16 PM.
#7
I had my rear end redone last spring. Could it have really gone bad that quickly?
Lizzy - thats what I got already!
Royal Purple Max Gear
FMS 4.10
Moser 31 spline axles
FMS Trak-Lok Diff 31T
8.8 Axle Bearings + Seal
Ford 8.8 Bearing Kit
My last gear job, the ring bolts backed out and got lodged in the gears.
Lizzy - thats what I got already!
Royal Purple Max Gear
FMS 4.10
Moser 31 spline axles
FMS Trak-Lok Diff 31T
8.8 Axle Bearings + Seal
Ford 8.8 Bearing Kit
My last gear job, the ring bolts backed out and got lodged in the gears.
They could have also used too few clutch packs which again would increase wear on those that are there.
#10
Friction modifier makes the oil more slippery so that the clutch plates do not bind up and chatter/jerk/pop/etc. It is not needed with full synthetic gears oils because the synthetic oils is inherently "slipperier" than dino juice.
Not using it with dino juice and a new clutch pack is an experience to be treasured, the amount of noise the clutches will make is astounding; drive too much like that and you will toast your new clutch plates is short order.
Using too much FM will make the clutch plates so slippery that they will never "wear out", of course they will also slip so much that there will be no slip control at all.
A cheap trick in the old days was to use less or no friction modifier to make the clutch packs grab faster/tighter--this was really only useful on trailered cars...
Not using it with dino juice and a new clutch pack is an experience to be treasured, the amount of noise the clutches will make is astounding; drive too much like that and you will toast your new clutch plates is short order.
Using too much FM will make the clutch plates so slippery that they will never "wear out", of course they will also slip so much that there will be no slip control at all.
A cheap trick in the old days was to use less or no friction modifier to make the clutch packs grab faster/tighter--this was really only useful on trailered cars...