Fobra

cooler is better in most circumstances (not extreme race apps, but nvm that) - however above they said a cooler engine makes more power - which is true to a large extent - however, there is a valuable distinction to be made between the engine coolant temp and the intake temp, the intake temp being cooler is what is going to make your car run cooler. The mechanical pump will not really make your car run any cooler, unless it exceeds the flow rate of your stock pump, and in most cases the electric just cools faster, not more and the real advatange of the electric being that you can shut off the engine and continue to run the electric... anyway there is no difference in power making ability between a mechanical and a electric, there difference is the parasitic loss... and many of you are hung up on the 20 hp or so you get from electric pumps, yeah thats a gain... but your car will still be slow... and now less reliable

oxfordgt

LOL you have no idea how an engines cooling system works do you? The electric pump flows much more then the stock pump which allows the the coolant to be cooled more and pull more heat out of the engine. Pulling heat out lowers chamber pressure and allows for more timing. Lowering the IAT will not make the engine run cooler at all. lowering the IAT just lowers chamber temps not engine temps. Might want to take a little class on how engines work. I was able to add 5* of timing after upgrading my cooling system. My ECT was always 191* before the electric pump and now it runs at 170*. 170 is way to low but I'm waiting till after the F1A is installed to see where the temps go before changeing thermostat. I have friends that have been running electric pumps for years with no problems, all of them went to electric pumps after their stock pumps died.

califas_1987

Just from reading this post, I would suggest to go with both a relay and a hard wired somewhere in the cabin. Should you ever have a relay go bad...BAM! flip the switch and get yourself to a safe spot.

jlg32281

I'm not anti-electric, just think the money can be better spent. Also I think anyone that thinks they can pick up 20hp from switching is living a dream. The cheapest way to run cooler is to lower the anti-freeze percentage (90/10 works well), add water wetter or similar product, and put in a 160 thermostat. This will give you significantly lower temps for a lot less money. But if you like the electric pump and you have the money, I say do it. I know I've done things to my car that others wouldn't have or thought I should spend the money elsewhere. It's your car, do what you want.

oxfordgt

Do not install a 160* thermostat. It will cause you ECT to be below 185 which will cause the computer to run in cold drive off mode which will be very rich giving you less performance and less gas mileage. I have a problem right now with running a 180* in my coolant system which is keeping the ECT at 170*. I had to retune the car for it while I'm still NA and had a hard time getting it to lean out enough.

Unless you have a way to either data log your ECT or monitor it(gauge) you shouldn't be making any changes to your cooling system. Your coolant system is one of the most important systems when it comes to performance.

Fobra

your only getting a cooler temp because your running a pump that out flows stock... I already mentioned that, that said you probably could have added that timing anyway, your car is N/A. Id like to see a dyno showing any gain past the parasitic loss... good luck

Eagle2000GT

Ox, my wiring cluster looks just like that. Is it the light blue wire that you spliced into? Also, have you had any problems with fuzes?

029s

I would recommend using a relay. Be careful about just plugging in something that draws that much juice into your electrical system. Run a small wire from a ignition source to the relay. Then run a heavier gauge wire from the battery to the relay then to the pump. When you turn on the car the small wire will flip the internal switch in the relay and the relay will pick up the load and carry the heavier current on the larger wire to the pump. If you use a small wire from your fuel system for the power supply to the pump you run a high risk of burning out the wiring. Those small wires were never designed for the kind of current a pump like that will pull.

I used a relay for my fuel pump upgrade on my last car and never had any trouble with it. They are cheap insurance for your wiring.
Just my .02.

GStam66

I have a 180* thermostat in my car, dont notice any problems or anything. :\

oxfordgt

The red wire is the wire i tapped into. It is the fuel pump signal wire (not fuel pump power wire). I have had no problems with fuses and even tested the wires with the pump on and off and there was no loss in volts on the stock wire. I did worry about wiring it that way so I called meziere about it. The guy told me the relay is just for convience. If it was required it would have came with the pump.