defconfire

Ok well I thought I had fixed my problem but apparently not. Well I have been having problems with the ridiculously high idle while driving(1700-2200rpm). When I am at a complete stopped it still high but not as high as when moving (1400-1700rpm).

After some trial and error with the IAC mod I finally got it to idle at about 850-900 rpm when stopped and about 1100 rpm when moving. I had to use about a 1/4" inch hole For anyone who has not done this before the stock size is about 5/8". I was pleased with that result and figured I was OK for a while until I could get it re-tuned because my original tuner who shall remain anonymous Royally FU*KED it up.

So today I went and started my car w/o any problems then I went to turn on my A/C on... the car stalled so I slightly enlarged the hole its closer to 5/16th now. And it Idles at about 950rpm with the A/C on . W/ the ac off it Idles at 1200 rpm when stopped and about 1500-1800 rpm when I am not completely stopped.

I have an appointment at a local Shop on Friday 1st to check if a/f because it is probablly like 5:1, it smells like gas pump behind my car. And 2nd to possibly tune for all of these problems.

I just figured I'd share this frustrating series of events with everyone. If anyone has any input/thoughts/suggestions/dumbass comments post away.....

Sxynerd

OK, there are a few things that car affect your idle. If you don't have the mods or things I list then disregard. Isolate and disregard these one by one.

Some aftermarket TB's do not meter the air at idle well enough and can cause a high or erratic idle.

High flow or catless H/X pipe will cause a fuel smell and can affect your Decay rate. (Idle Hang combining with high idle)

The smell of fuel is not uncommon with a high flow mid pipe and doesn't necessarily mean you're running rich.

Bad or loose TPS will cause eratic idle

As will a bad IAC

Vacuum lines that are old can become brittle and create a vacuum leak. ( all mine where bad when I bought my car)

Under the stock throtle body there is a air bleed screw that can sometimes work itself loose and create a bad vacuum leak.

A bad temp sensor can put the car in what most people mistakenly call a Limp mode. It does not affect air/fuel but what it does do is keep you fan on all the time and keep your AMC from learning the correct parameters.

My favorite thing in the whole world is an incompetent tuner. I hope you don't have one of those, Like I do.

Lastly a faulty ECU but that is so unlikely it shouldn't even be mentioned but I'm the merchant of death and I've come to eat your hopes and dreams. And maybe a few fig newtons if you have them.


good luck, i'm sure many other people have some ideas too.

defconfire

Well I Checked for a vacuum leak I actually did a smoke test. I dont have a plenum or TB. I checked my TPS and IAC. the only thing that I haven't checked is that air bleed screw. but i probablly would have noticed that with the smoke test.

My big concern is the smell of fuel didnt start until after I had my new engine tuned. So if it's running rich I don't want my rings to get F*cked up

My guess is human error somewhere in my tune. Because when I first got my car back they had also played with the throttle body set screw and it was open about 1/4 inch so it would Idle at about 2500-2800 rpm.

oxfordgt

Yeah it sounds like you have a very bad tune. I don't care what mods you have your exhaust should never smell like gas. I have LT's, o/r H, SLP LM2 catback and all emissions parts deleted and I can't even smell a hint of fuel in my exhaust.

What do you mean by you don't have a plenum or TB? All 4.6 intakes have them except the Logan but it still has a TB.

defconfire

lol, I didn't mean I don't physically have a plenum, I meant I don't have an aftermarket plenum and TB.

Although a Logan intake or a P-51 would be nice.

Perf_white_GT

what are your mods to get 286hp?

defconfire

CMS Stage 1 cams, Patriot Stage 2 heads BBK L/T's a CAI and a tune.