4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

suspension and autocrss

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Old 09-01-2008, 01:04 PM
  #11  
defconfire
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Here is what you want.

Koni Shocks/Struts
Maximum Motorsports coilover kit
Get some stiff springs (I am running 650 in front and 350 in back)
Griggs Panhard bar
Griggs torque arm
Griggs control arms
Griggs A-arms
Griggs K-member
Any brand full length subframe connectors
Baer Brake upgrade(it helps more than you'd think)
Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates
Sway bars, (They didn't help as much as I was hoping)
Strut tower brace (looks cool)

Replace every bushing you can find.

Last but one of the most important things, GOOD TIRES But definitely do these last. But they can work as a crutch if you are new to the sport and hinder your skill as a driver. I actually started on 6 year old bald tires.

But if you don't want to buy all of those pieces MM Maximum grip package is really good.


I use this setup and its fairly successful on the track.

Infact me and a friend were playing with an accelerometer and we pulled 1.12g's on a 270* off ramp at 70 mph, on street tires, the tires didn't even make any noise.

Sometimes it stil impresses me.^
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Old 09-01-2008, 01:10 PM
  #12  
GodAmGT00
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I notice everyone addresses the suspension directly, but I've seen even upgraded brakes fade severely on small AutoX courses... I realize that there are certain restriction with regards to upgrades, but throwing even some high end Brake pads (Porterfield R4-S for example) and excellent rotors, will help you out a lot more than some of the other modifications would..


http://www.scca.org

Check there as to the most realistic class you'll want to run in, like BraMas had mentioned, it gets real competitive the more you upgrade your car... Don't forget to give yourself a LOT of seat time after you upgrade your suspension, since your car will feel completely different, as to the tire's breaking points, body rolls, nose diving, squating and over/understeer...



JT




JT
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Old 09-01-2008, 01:30 PM
  #13  
avlon06
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is this your first time to auto x? if so i wouldn't worry to much about your mods...im part of a bmw club and i auto x every month with them and i to am the only mustang out there. Even with stock suspension you can do it and its fun, just learn your car then worry about mods
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Old 09-01-2008, 05:59 PM
  #14  
Stevecooper
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Originally Posted by defconfire
Here is what you want.

Koni Shocks/Struts
Maximum Motorsports coilover kit
Get some stiff springs (I am running 650 in front and 350 in back)
Griggs Panhard bar
Griggs torque arm
Griggs control arms
Griggs A-arms
Griggs K-member
Any brand full length subframe connectors
Baer Brake upgrade(it helps more than you'd think)
Maximum Motorsports Caster Camber Plates
Sway bars, (They didn't help as much as I was hoping)
Strut tower brace (looks cool)

Replace every bushing you can find.

Last but one of the most important things, GOOD TIRES But definitely do these last. But they can work as a crutch if you are new to the sport and hinder your skill as a driver. I actually started on 6 year old bald tires.

But if you don't want to buy all of those pieces MM Maximum grip package is really good.


I use this setup and its fairly successful on the track.

Infact me and a friend were playing with an accelerometer and we pulled 1.12g's on a 270* off ramp at 70 mph, on street tires, the tires didn't even make any noise.

Sometimes it stil impresses me.^
Nice that's a similar setup to mine and I love it. I went with 550's in the front and I have always thought about going more. I also went with a watts link rear.
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Old 09-01-2008, 06:10 PM
  #15  
avlon06
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the Maximum Motorsports coilover kit are sleeved type coilovers it would be better to go with coilovers that are threaded such as QA1, strange, and comp engineering.
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Old 09-01-2008, 07:11 PM
  #16  
defconfire
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I will agree in most cases a threaded shock is better, but I just like the valving on Koni's so much.

Stevecooper: I would have gone with a watt's link but at the time no one made them for the 8.8"
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Old 09-01-2008, 07:33 PM
  #17  
Stevecooper
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Originally Posted by defconfire
I will agree in most cases a threaded shock is better, but I just like the valving on Koni's so much.

Stevecooper: I would have gone with a watt's link but at the time no one made them for the 8.8"
really? I think I got mine installed 4-5 year ago... either way for what I do with the car the PHB would have been just fine.
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Old 09-01-2008, 07:42 PM
  #18  
defconfire
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My car received panhard bar 9 months after it rolled out of the factory. If they did exist in '00 I didn't know about them.
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:07 PM
  #19  
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OT but i have an auto x coming up this weekend and its a night one, anyone have experience with them?
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Old 09-01-2008, 08:21 PM
  #20  
Stevecooper
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Originally Posted by defconfire
My car received panhard bar 9 months after it rolled out of the factory. If they did exist in '00 I didn't know about them.
Yea that's 8 years... I think your right.
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