Help with boring and stroking my 4.6 to a 5.0
09-12-2008, 08:26 AM
#11
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Michigan
Posts: 578
You could just get the Ford Boss 5.0 Big Bore:
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...ock/index.html
http://www.modularperformance.com/Short_Blocks.html
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/tec...ock/index.html
http://www.modularperformance.com/Short_Blocks.html
http://www.modularmustangracing.com/
Wait, I mean it will blow up like every other big bore engine....
09-12-2008, 10:21 AM
#12
Banned
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: tn
Posts: 0
LOL this is a funny thread. I think someone needs to put down the magazines and get off the internet and actually learn about the modular engine.
BigBores do not blow up. If machined correctly they will be just as strong as a regular block. The only problem people have with them is coolant leaks.
Who puts concrete in a block to fill it? LOL If I were to pick up a race block from a shop and they filled it with concrete I would shove it up their asses.
I have seen Darton sleeve kits with pistons on ebay brand new for $1000. So a bigbore build would only cost around $4000 are machineing and parts.
But like said before if you want to increase the displacment big bore is by far the best way to go. A stroker is a waste and completely throws the bore to stroke ratio out of wack. Plus the stroker will wear on the cylinders more and in an uneven pattern because of the angle the rods get near TDC. With a bigbore you unshroud the valves which is one of the biggest problems of the 2v.
BigBores do not blow up. If machined correctly they will be just as strong as a regular block. The only problem people have with them is coolant leaks.
Who puts concrete in a block to fill it? LOL If I were to pick up a race block from a shop and they filled it with concrete I would shove it up their asses.
I have seen Darton sleeve kits with pistons on ebay brand new for $1000. So a bigbore build would only cost around $4000 are machineing and parts.
But like said before if you want to increase the displacment big bore is by far the best way to go. A stroker is a waste and completely throws the bore to stroke ratio out of wack. Plus the stroker will wear on the cylinders more and in an uneven pattern because of the angle the rods get near TDC. With a bigbore you unshroud the valves which is one of the biggest problems of the 2v.
09-12-2008, 10:46 AM
#13
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 912
hey Sean, what shop is near you? Might want to check out CRERacing...
Scarm, you've just managed to jump right into the middle of a rather bitter debate. Some will tell you that it's a waste of time etc etc etc, and to forget about it. Others will say it's the best thing since sliced bread, 'no replacement for displacement' yada yada yada.
To answer the question you asked... For a 'stroker' to run 'right', the simplest answer is a tune. You're increasing the air intake in the motor, so you'll need to increase fuel to match. If you want the most performance out of your new stroker, it all depends on how deep your pockets are. You COULD go crazy, spend $10k on a Darton MID-sleeved block (thank you for that totally unreachable goal Steve), or you could find a good iron block, get it punched out .030" over (biggest you can safely go without sleeving) and leave it at that. Personally, I'd recommend at least a forged rotating assembly, adjustable cam gears (you did say that you were looking to put in some big cams as well, no?), look into getting your heads ported, headers (if you don't have them already), lightweight flywheel, and a new clutch. Bottom line: right around 3k on top of the machine work, if you pull everything apart yourself.
Scarm, you've just managed to jump right into the middle of a rather bitter debate. Some will tell you that it's a waste of time etc etc etc, and to forget about it. Others will say it's the best thing since sliced bread, 'no replacement for displacement' yada yada yada.
To answer the question you asked... For a 'stroker' to run 'right', the simplest answer is a tune. You're increasing the air intake in the motor, so you'll need to increase fuel to match. If you want the most performance out of your new stroker, it all depends on how deep your pockets are. You COULD go crazy, spend $10k on a Darton MID-sleeved block (thank you for that totally unreachable goal Steve), or you could find a good iron block, get it punched out .030" over (biggest you can safely go without sleeving) and leave it at that. Personally, I'd recommend at least a forged rotating assembly, adjustable cam gears (you did say that you were looking to put in some big cams as well, no?), look into getting your heads ported, headers (if you don't have them already), lightweight flywheel, and a new clutch. Bottom line: right around 3k on top of the machine work, if you pull everything apart yourself.
09-12-2008, 12:42 PM
#14
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 402
Hmm..my turbo motor is a Darton MID motor (making 1500hp)...and my brothers is a dry-sleeve 5.4 big-bore(making 720+hp N/A). Guess we better sell em before we blow em up. Haha.
I know we filled the Aeromotive motor with block filler (they run no water in the motor), but thats the only one I recall. I didn't fill my block nor my brothers.
I know we filled the Aeromotive motor with block filler (they run no water in the motor), but thats the only one I recall. I didn't fill my block nor my brothers.
09-12-2008, 01:10 PM
#15
4th Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Shelbyville, Indiana
Posts: 1,088
Maybe you guys can help me. First picture has sleeves. Second picture is the Ford Boss 5.0. I don't see sleeves. Is that right?
Edit: The article also said the block had a more even water flow than the origal 4.6.
Edit: The article also said the block had a more even water flow than the origal 4.6.
09-12-2008, 03:38 PM
#16
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 402
Correct. The first block is a standard 4.6 block with Darton MID 3.700" sleeves installed. The second is the new Boss block that is cast with 3.700" bores from factory, so no need for the sleeves.
.
09-14-2008, 01:01 AM
#20
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: OH
Posts: 2
ok thanks for all the help. im a little confused on what you guys are talking about but here is the stroker kit i was planning on buying. Im pretty literate when it comes to bolt ons, superchargers, suspension and what not but when it comes to the inside of an engine im pretty lost so if you could simplify what you talking about it would be a lot easier lol. thank you for your help
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...mZ370028081546
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FORD-...mZ370028081546