Any major differences in CC plates
09-16-2008, 01:10 PM
#11
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Cary/Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,791
It depends I will usually run -3.2 or -2.8 on the track (depends on how it feels).
When on the streets I just use an alignment within factory spec about ~ -1.1 or -1.2.
I keep the caster set close to +4.4 and don't usually mess with it.
When on the streets I just use an alignment within factory spec about ~ -1.1 or -1.2.
I keep the caster set close to +4.4 and don't usually mess with it.
09-16-2008, 01:17 PM
#12
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
One other comment, if you have any future intention or inclination toward coil-overs make sure you get a robust 4-bolt set.
I have seen the lesser stamped metal units seriously deformed by running them with coil-overs...
I have seen the lesser stamped metal units seriously deformed by running them with coil-overs...
Last edited by cliffyk; 09-16-2008 at 01:29 PM.
09-16-2008, 01:24 PM
#13
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Cary/Charlotte, NC
Posts: 3,791
I actually need to get a new set. Sometime soon for that very reason. My drivers side one has begun to bend and I can hear the bearing starting to make some noise.
I had the old design before they started making them "stronger and better". But I heard somewhere that the newer ones give you a smaller range of adjustment than the older ones did. I may have to look at Griggs now.
I had the old design before they started making them "stronger and better". But I heard somewhere that the newer ones give you a smaller range of adjustment than the older ones did. I may have to look at Griggs now.
09-16-2008, 01:28 PM
#14
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 912
I actually need to get a new set. Sometime soon for that very reason. My drivers side one has begun to bend and I can hear the bearing starting to make some noise.
I had the old design before they started making them "stronger and better". But I heard somewhere that the newer ones give you a smaller range of adjustment than the older ones did. I may have to look at Griggs now.
I had the old design before they started making them "stronger and better". But I heard somewhere that the newer ones give you a smaller range of adjustment than the older ones did. I may have to look at Griggs now.
09-16-2008, 01:40 PM
#15
TECH SAVANT
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Saint Augustine, FL
Posts: 10,938
I had an opportunity to compare the MM and Steeda plates side-by-side when I bought my plates.
It was obvious that the Steeda plates ($30 more) were a more robust product, however if I had been aware of the Griggs plates I would not have had a problem spending another $100.
It was obvious that the Steeda plates ($30 more) were a more robust product, however if I had been aware of the Griggs plates I would not have had a problem spending another $100.
09-16-2008, 01:43 PM
#16
3rd Gear Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 912
I had an opportunity to compare the MM and Steeda plates side-by-side when I bought my plates.
It was obvious that the Steeda plates ($30 more) were a more robust product, however if I had been aware of the Griggs plates I would not have had a problem spending another $100.
It was obvious that the Steeda plates ($30 more) were a more robust product, however if I had been aware of the Griggs plates I would not have had a problem spending another $100.
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