best shocks and struts?
11-24-2008, 04:51 PM
#21
corner carver
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 4,371
ya i want to eventually go coil-over but need to do other things first. Ya i kinda figured that getting out of the car all the time to adjust would be a pain and i could end up not adjusting properly so MM is probably right on just getting a non-adjustable. So do you like your H&R SS? how much of a drop did it give you?
I am very happy with the H&R SS'. They gave a nice drop of about 1.75" up front and 1.6" according to the internet. The Race springs are a higher spring rate although they don't give as much of a drop. I think they are about a 1.25" drop.
11-24-2008, 05:01 PM
#23
corner carver
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 4,371
11-24-2008, 05:51 PM
#25
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Compton
Posts: 2,915
I'm not jmac, but I would say either coil-overs or lowering springs. I have no experience with coil-overs but have heard great things about them. As soon as i dropped my stang, it eliminated some body roll that I had with the stock ride height.
I too have hr's ss springs. they gave me an excellent drop.
I too have hr's ss springs. they gave me an excellent drop.
11-24-2008, 05:59 PM
#26
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Dallas
Posts: 2,530
ya i would love coil-overs but its alot of cash to drop at once. (college student) but since i like to autox i thought maybe C/C plates might be a good investment since you can adjust camber and all..any other thoughts?
11-24-2008, 06:11 PM
#27
5th Gear Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Compton
Posts: 2,915
Besides coil-overs, I would say lowering springs, and cc plates. In no way do I have experience with autox'ing, but i'm pretty sure these suspension mods will help out, along with some shocks and struts.
You might also want to look into sub-frame connectors. What I've heard, is to get sub-frame connectors welded on on a drive on ramp lift instead of a lift point hydraulic lift. Reason is, On the drive on ramp lift, all the weight is even. On the other lift, All of your weight will be un-even. Example that I can think of is when you jack up your car and try to open the door. It takes more force to open it than when the car is dropped back down to the floor.
sorry if i'm not making sense.
You might also want to look into sub-frame connectors. What I've heard, is to get sub-frame connectors welded on on a drive on ramp lift instead of a lift point hydraulic lift. Reason is, On the drive on ramp lift, all the weight is even. On the other lift, All of your weight will be un-even. Example that I can think of is when you jack up your car and try to open the door. It takes more force to open it than when the car is dropped back down to the floor.
sorry if i'm not making sense.
11-24-2008, 06:50 PM
#28
corner carver
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 4,371
I would look into Full Length SFC's. They really stiffen the car up a lot. CC plates will definitely help. Swaybars will also help but I would wait to see how your car acts without it.
Tires are the most important and drag radials will highly induce understeer with a street tire up front.
Tires are the most important and drag radials will highly induce understeer with a street tire up front.
11-24-2008, 07:35 PM
#29
2nd Gear Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: florida
Posts: 212
are they the absoulte best for the track?
11-24-2008, 08:10 PM
#30
6th Gear Member
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 5,010
Well it all depends dude. For your car 90/10 would be a great shock. Usually ppll with built engines and some suspension go with 70/30s because the front ends tend to pop up with 90/10s and fall on its face not carrying the suspension.