Need some Help. I Think I killed My engine!
#21
The engine times itself, the only thing you could have ****ed up is cam timing. Did you hear any clunks? after doing the PI swap my car ran like **** as I let it idle for 20 minutes, and it burnt all the paint off the long tubes n smelt like crap, but once it got itself together it ran fine.
as long as you didn't take that chain off of the cam sprocket and the cam timing is still right, it should adjust the timing itself and run alright.
start it back up and listen, if you hear metal to metal contact, kill it, if it throws an engine code, kill it, or if your oil pressure drops, kill it. Otherwise let it idle on its own for a few minutes, and if none of those things happen, it should adjust itself.
I know ford stresses like crazy not to let the cams move at all anytime your doing valve train work, but as long as you tightened them back down properly, which an in lbs wrench, those bolts aren't very tight, and made sure you lubed them back up properly before the you put the valve cover on, you should be fine.
If you took that timing chain off at any time, you could be ****ed. If you turned that cam over by hand, or worse by ratchet, the clank of the valves closing is enough to mushroom them.
IMO if you had the ***** to do this yourself, then you probably know what you did wrong, because you probably had one of those "I shouldnt have done that..." moments right afterwards.
also dbl check your connections. What you described is also a commonly over looked loose ground.
as long as you didn't take that chain off of the cam sprocket and the cam timing is still right, it should adjust the timing itself and run alright.
start it back up and listen, if you hear metal to metal contact, kill it, if it throws an engine code, kill it, or if your oil pressure drops, kill it. Otherwise let it idle on its own for a few minutes, and if none of those things happen, it should adjust itself.
I know ford stresses like crazy not to let the cams move at all anytime your doing valve train work, but as long as you tightened them back down properly, which an in lbs wrench, those bolts aren't very tight, and made sure you lubed them back up properly before the you put the valve cover on, you should be fine.
If you took that timing chain off at any time, you could be ****ed. If you turned that cam over by hand, or worse by ratchet, the clank of the valves closing is enough to mushroom them.
IMO if you had the ***** to do this yourself, then you probably know what you did wrong, because you probably had one of those "I shouldnt have done that..." moments right afterwards.
also dbl check your connections. What you described is also a commonly over looked loose ground.
Last edited by ezking; 12-14-2008 at 08:55 AM. Reason: another idea
#22
A question wich may have nothing to do with this problem, but i noticed one time it kinda had the "misfire" type thing going on and i switched the 3 and 4 plug wires around and it ran fine. Why in the world would it matter wich plug went to wich cilynder? or could i have a faulty pack or wire. Is there a way to test the pack or wire? Remember, i have the non cop distributor system, i got the 2 coil packs.
this is your problem for sure. No in terms of the actual wires it doens't matter which wire goes to which cylinder because they are exactly the same. except for length so they can reach their designated cylinder. But most wires are marked 1,2,3 ext to match up with the coil on the cold pack and cylinder becaue it was made to fit the length of the cylinder. My advise to you is buy a haynes manual (you should already have one if you did the pi swap unless you have supreem knowledge of the mustang engine) and check to see if you have the spark plug wires connected to the right coil and cylinder. If you plug any only spark plug wire to whatever cylinder the timing of the car will be way off because cylinders will be firing when they aren't supossed 2, which will cause a very very poor idle if it even runs.
#23
It would run, I'm ashamed of some of the things I have put these motors through. You would be suprised at how stubborn they are.
I have honestly never heard of someone changing the wires like that, at least I've never seen it, and totally don't understand it.
From what hes done, I'm thinking he had to spin the cam get it off the valves since he replaced multiple lash adjusters. What were you doing with the cam retainer bolts again?
Hmm, I'd definatly put the plug wires back where they are supposed to go.
I have honestly never heard of someone changing the wires like that, at least I've never seen it, and totally don't understand it.
From what hes done, I'm thinking he had to spin the cam get it off the valves since he replaced multiple lash adjusters. What were you doing with the cam retainer bolts again?
Hmm, I'd definatly put the plug wires back where they are supposed to go.
#25
what i don't understand is he said he didn't take the cams off to change the lash adjusters. how do u change the lash adjusters with out taking off the cams? is there a certain tool or something. and anyway why were you changing the lash adjusters any way. those things are the least likely to wear out in your engine not to mention 4 of them going at the same time unless you installed them wrong in the first place i just don't see it hapening. If you positive you have the wires on the coil pack going to the right cylinder then you slipped a tooth on the cam.
#26
yep. ford has a tool to compress the valve with the head on the engine so you can remove the followers. but he said he broke a retainer bolt so im thinking he took the cam cradles off lifted the cam up enough to remove the followers, and possible had it jump a tooth at that point.
#27
Hmm seems like we aren't getting the whole story. If you botched this one you could have done some serious damage to that car, it doesn't take much to spin the oil passages shut on the cams, actually, it literally takes nothing at all.
#28
Forgot to let you guys know what had happend, but it wasnt the wires it was a connetor to one of the fuel injectors was loose and wasnt getting connection. Must have bumped it when i took the valve cover off.
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