4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

radiator

Old 02-17-2009, 10:56 PM
  #11  
brian1570
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discount code?
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Old 02-17-2009, 11:17 PM
  #12  
Fleet99GT
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Get the car warmed up and then try to feel the radiator for any variations in temperature. If you find cold spots u need a new radiator.
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Old 02-18-2009, 01:50 AM
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thats a good idea. ill try it and update asap.
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Old 02-18-2009, 03:12 PM
  #14  
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ok i drove it today and tried to find cold spots i guess in the radiator. nothing noticible at least, so now i'm about to go drain it again and take a gander at what comes out...again.

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Old 02-18-2009, 05:04 PM
  #15  
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well more **** came out, but its still over heating just as bad.
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Old 02-18-2009, 07:59 PM
  #16  
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dam if more **** came out i would say have a shop do a full flush but then again for another hundred bux u could jus get an aftermarket radiator and call it a day
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Old 02-18-2009, 08:24 PM
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even a shop flush is just a chemical flush and the same stuff you buy at a parts store. try disconnecting the upper and lower radiator hose and run water thru the upper hose while the car is running and see what comes out the lower radiator hose. So u are really bypassing the radiator all together. U might be able to flush more **** out. sometime u get rust and debris out of the heater core.
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Fleet99GT
even a shop flush is just a chemical flush and the same stuff you buy at a parts store. try disconnecting the upper and lower radiator hose and run water thru the upper hose while the car is running and see what comes out the lower radiator hose. So u are really bypassing the radiator all together. U might be able to flush more **** out. sometime u get rust and debris out of the heater core.
isnt the top line the return line? ide be working against the water pump. that wouldnt do any good. now maybe if i stuck the hose in the bottom line i might get some **** out. and i'de hav to turn the heater on to right? AND the car would have to be hot enough to open the t-stat. and with cold water running straight in and out i doubt the t-stat would open. now i could maybe remove the t-stat and flush.
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Old 02-18-2009, 09:55 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Choppa
dam if more **** came out i would say have a shop do a full flush but then again for another hundred bux u could jus get an aftermarket radiator and call it a day
the shop im dealing with wants 40-ish if i bring in the radiator. a mishimoto all aluminum is 240. so its more like for 200 more bux i can call it a day.
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