4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

Newb putting a '00 interior in daughters '96

Old 03-06-2009, 05:34 PM
  #11  
klynam
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Thanks for the number Tommy - her name is Jenny (of course...lol)
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Old 03-07-2009, 12:06 AM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by klynam
Thanks for the number Tommy - her name is Jenny (of course...lol)
haha im so glad you got that .

someone gave me that number once and i didn't even realize it untill i said it aloud
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Old 03-07-2009, 03:22 PM
  #13  
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I picked up the 2000-GT, 2-tone gray cloth seats today. They were in good condition but a little stained and very dirty from sitting in a totaled car and a garage.

Vaccum wasn't doing much and I was running out of upholstery cleaner. Then I thought heck, they're out of the car anyway, should I do it??? Sure...why not?!?!? So I went straight to the car wash and spent $4 blasting and scrubbing them with the big brush.

That certainly did the job - and they were definitely dirty. But I have to admit, I didn't think the foam would hold THAT much water...lol. Those suckers were heavy! Now I just have to get them dried out quickly so they don't mildew. They're outside on the back porch drip-drying with a big fan on them...

Got new tires on this morning. Kuhmo 235/50R17's mounted, balanced, installed for $460 out the door. I guess that's pretty good. It's done now at any rate.

While the wheels were off, I looked over the rotors. They all looked and felt good - pretty smooth w/ no gouging, just a hint of a lip at the outer edge, and they don't pulse at all. I was just going to put on fresh pads and bleed the system. Should I break down and put new rotors on now too???

Guess I'll look for a local buyer for the gray '96 leather seat set...

Last edited by klynam; 03-07-2009 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 03-09-2009, 08:28 AM
  #14  
2002GTforME
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Originally Posted by klynam
While the wheels were off, I looked over the rotors. They all looked and felt good - pretty smooth w/ no gouging, just a hint of a lip at the outer edge, and they don't pulse at all. I was just going to put on fresh pads and bleed the system. Should I break down and put new rotors on now too???
I would take them off and have them turned at a local machine shop since you are already there.
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Old 03-09-2009, 09:35 AM
  #15  
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Wow - getting the front rotors off was a HUGE hassle.

The two bolts holding on the brackets we're so tight I split a 15mm Craftsman socket getting them off!!!

Then rotors were practically fused to the hubs with rust and it took about 20 minutes of hammering and half a can of WD40 to break them loose. The driver side was so stuck I probably ruined the rotor surface hammering it off.

Unfortunately I didn't have a brazing torch to heat up and expand the rotors. That would have helped.

Taking the rotors to OReilys later today...

Do I need a special tool to spread the rear calipers? Someone told me they "screw" back in, not press in with a caliper spreader???

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Old 03-09-2009, 11:07 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by klynam
Do I need a special tool to spread the rear calipers? Someone told me they "screw" back in, not press in with a caliper spreader???
O'Reilly should have the tool kit you need, I think they call it "Ford Caliper Compression Tool Kit" or something similar, haha.
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Old 03-09-2009, 11:37 AM
  #17  
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atleast you get a free 15mm i've broken so many 3/4 drive ratchets because of rust, even with PB blaster or wd-40. Maybe once or twice because i should have been using 1/2 inch . Free replacement handtools for life FTMFW.
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Old 03-09-2009, 06:18 PM
  #18  
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with the tool for the rear brake calipers pulse the piston. If you understand that, it's like this: apply pressure then stop and release some pressure off the piston then apply it again.

Not sure you will have the same problem I did but that's what i had to do to get it to recess all the way
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