edgespeeder06

would this fit a new edge?
275/40R1798W (2 tires) 255/40R1794W (2 tires)

They come with black bullitts, just curious if they would. Thanks.

edgespeeder06

well purchased 07 silver gt bullitts and 05 stock wheels too and pirelli tires and the fronts rub when you make a sharp turn.....is that bad? Seems like it rubs against an arm but will a wheel spacer fix this? and if so where can i get one for a new edge mustang for a good price?

Thanks,
Jonathan

Jazzer The Cat

You have a couple options here:

1. Install wheel spacers, but don't recommend any more than 1/2" thick
2. Install steering rack limiters so car does not turn quite as sharp
3. Don't turn quite as sharp.

I would recommend the limiters as the easiest solution. Spacers can pose other issues, like safety, so not to be taken lightly, IMO.

How much/badly does it rub? Pics?

Jazzer

edgespeeder06

it rubs in on the center of the lower arm only when she makes sharp turns but the wheels look sharp on there.
Is it bad if i only do spacers in the front? will it look funny? and what kind of problems are posed by that? and how much would the 2 option cause

Jazzer The Cat

I would not recommend over a 1/4" spacer without replacing lug-bolts. This would require pulling hubs and having longer bolts pressed in and would be mandatory you ALWAYS ran a spacer after that point.

Steering rack limiters are pretty easily accessible and the website I had is no longer running. Here is a copy/paste of instructions:

Not sure how usefull w/o pics, but here goes anyway....


Before I begin with the technical information, I should point out that the parts store steering rack listings are by far the most disorganized and confusingly listed remanufactured part in the 79-93 Mustang world. Someone deserves to get slapped over this for causing so many people confusion and lost time in buying the incorrect rack. Hopefully this article will help dissolve the confusion and get you on your way.
First, if you look at any Autozone, Pepboys, or Partsamerica listing for steering racks, you will likely see the following commonalities.

1.)There will be a distinction between 20:1 and 15:1 steering ratios. The 15:1 is what comes stock in 87-93 V8 cars and is what you want to stay with. The 20:1 ratio requires less effort to turn but requires more turns of the steering wheel to turn the two front wheels a set amount compared to the 15:1 ratio rack. Some part stores list "sport steering" as a rack option which simply refers to a 15:1 ratio rack and "non-sport steering" as the 20:1 ratio rack. The difference between 20:1 and 15:1 is significant and means the difference between being able to simply turn the wheel to drive into a parking space or into a side street, and having to go hand-over-hand to do so. Also, it should be noted that lock-to-lock is not necessarily what determines steering ratio.

2.)There will be a distinction between 3.0, 2.5, and 2.25 turn lock-to-lock. The 3.0 turn lock-to-lock is a 20:1 rack, whereas the 2.25 and 2.5 racks are 15:1. If your 87-93 Mustang came from the factory with 15-inch rims, it came with a 2.5 rack, and if it came with 16's, it has a 2.25 rack, but both of those racks are 15:1 ratios and are the same/interchangeable. The difference is the 2.25 rack has a different series of rack travel limiters installed on the inner ends of the tie rods limiting the amount of lock-to-lock turns so the rims don't rub on the A-arm. The compromise here is that you lose a small amount of turning radius. The "speed" or ratio of the rack remains the same regardless of the limiters. Here is where the parts stores try to take advantage of the common consumer. Often times the 2.25 (91-93) rack is priced $50+ more than the 2.5 (87-90) rack even though the difference is a couple of $5 limiters. I recommend getting the 2.5 rack, if it is cheaper, and adding your own limiters. Don't fall into the parts store scam.

After the install, you really need to check the toe setting professionally, but to get it close, you can count the number of turns that it takes to get your outer tie rod ends off each tie rod and screw them on the exact same amount on the new rack. It'll get you close but you'll have to be lucky to get it dead-nuts on because of variations and tolerances within all the tie rods out there.

No special tools are required. If it's possible, determine whether the rack bushings on the car are 1-piece or two-piece by loosening the rack and trying to pull it forward enough to tell. It makes a big difference when you buy the rack. For reference, my rack had two piece bushings which means on each side, one bushing slides in from the rear and the other slides in from the front of the rack, so there four total.


It is not a very hard job, and doesn't require anything special. It is pretty straightforward and if all goes smoothly you'll be driving the car again in 3-4 hours.

One thing that really helps is get a can of degreaser and go to the quarter car wash. Spray the whole rack and crossmember area and get it clean. It makes things a lot easier to work on when it's clean.


Procedure:

Place the car on jack stands and remove the front wheels.
You'll need to undo the tie rod ends by taking the castle nut off the spindle and then give the tie rod a hellacious solid whack with a hammer. It'll pop right down and out of the spindle. Another option is to use a pickle fork which worked fine for me.


Then, disconnect the clamp collar bolt that locks the steering shaft to the rack's input shaft. You may have to pry gently in order to allow the rack input shaft to slide out from the steering shaft's collar. Tug and pry until the rack pops off.
Now, transfer the pump line that is still attached to your old rack to the new rack.
At this point you want to press your inner rack bushings (the ones towards the rear of the car) in around the bushing tube. Take your new rack and slightly press it into the inner bushings that you just installed. Now take your outer bushings and tap them into the steering rack and get the mounting bolts started.
Before you press the rack in completely and torque everything down, make sure the rack input shaft has slid into collar. There is a flat side of the rack input shaft, so there is only one way it can slide it for alignment purposes, unless you turn the steering shaft 360 degrees in either direction, but you will know right away that the rack is favoring one side significantly. It may be difficult to get the collar bolt started after you slide the rack input shaft into it because you've probably had to spread the ears of the collar to get the old rack off. You may need some pliers to compress the two ends of the collar enough to get the bolt starts. Before you tighten it down completely, make sure to pull the collar towards the steering rack input shaft and then fully tighten. This ensures that the collar teeth are fully seated on the steering rack input shaft. Then, torque down the two large mounting bolts that hold the rack in place.



Also remember to use Type-F ATF instead of power steering fluid.


That's about it. Good luck....
Written by Luke Idzkowski and Frasier Elloitt. If you have any questions, please contact me at:
info@mustangmotorsport.com

HTH

Jazzer

Soldier GT

I bought my rims/tires from AM for 1300 bucks shipped......

kenv

here are a couple of pics of 05+ wheels on a new edge.

edgespeeder06

I can do any of that because her snow tires are stock 15s and she wants to be able to use them so i can only add a spacer i guess but so far it doesnt bother her too much