longsword65

All you ADD people can just skip to the bottom line =>

Ok, we all do it, and by "we' I mean the N/A 2V 4.6L owners (you S/C and/or DOHC guys just plop down big 300+hp numbers and walk away smiling... bastidges). By "it" I mean the scientificly accurate mental and verbal gymnastics... er... I mean calculations along the lines of, "lets see... I got 265hp stock, right? plus 7-10hp for my CAI, and 3-5 for the plenum - that's 15... plus another 10-15 for the cat-back exhaust, 3-5 for the shorty headers... and thats 300hp, right? right?!?
Right...
but not really...
Tuning a mustang is an art form - there are as many ways to tune a mustang as there are owners. And we all love to tune and tweak our machines. And all the things we do to our machines are fine and wonderful and make them go faster and sound better and increase our driving pleasure. And all the stuff we do is good and it helps, but 300hp from the simple easy bolt-ons - not gonna happen.
Why?
Scientific fact.
Fuel (91 octane) has a fixed combustion ratio with oxygen (like 14.7:1 or something) and a fixed amount of energy per (properly mixed) CFM of air/fuel mixture. Consequently, 300hp has a fairly exact CFM requirement (and our 2V heads don't cut it), X amount of fuel mixed with Y amount of air (CFM) = Z amount of HP (that's over simplifying a little, I know).

Now, a Mach 1, 4V, DOHC, 4.6L obviously has the CFM flow numbers to make 300 ponies. So, what is it we lack (besides the obvious extra 2V per cylinder)? As far as I can tell, what it really requires is heads and also possibly intake. PI heads and intake are good, but apparently not enough for that Holy Grail of 300+hp.
Do not despair...
My research seeems to indicate (and I'd like confirmation on this) that almost any CAI with stock MAF will meet the CFM needs of 300hp. As will most any 70mm+ TB and aftermarket plenum. Same goes for cat-back exhaust/X-pipe/H-pipe/etc. So, all that stuff we've been buying and putting on our car is good.
But we still need more...
So, my questions are (drum roll please):

A) Anyone know what the head and intake CFM requirements are for 300hp? (mostly a trivia question, but i'm curious to know)

B) does it require heads, intake and cam? or is it mostly just heads? heads plus mild cam? what? (I know there have to be a half a million combinations that will work, but I like options)

and

C) what are your suggestions for solid, reliable and most importantly cheap... er... economicly efficient parts to meet those needs?

Thanks to those that read thru all that!

=>Bottom line - what is the minimum I am gonna hafta do to my heads and intake to get those 300 ponies?!?

Art

David_K

im not gonna read all that. you want 300 nitrous is the best way to go

im ADHD

maddash

what the hell did you just say, first you have 260 @ the motor, its easy for 300 @ the motor. o/r pipes, timing adjust, and pulleys alone will get you about there. I have yet to see a catback get 10-15 Horsepower. Or are you talking rwhp, 300 rwhp is not going to happen with bolt ons. 300 @ the motor is easy. Dont mean to be an ***, but what the hell was that.

RollinThunder

do a head's and cam job and full exhaust...u'll have ur 300rwhp...prolly even a little bit more...and if u want more just on motor do all the other boltons...

BicketyBam

Adding 40 hp to achieve 300 at the fly is easily attainable. 300 hp at the rear wheels is another story. But if you read the intro, he starts with "I got 265 hp stock...". The 265 is at the fly and getting that number to 300 with full exhaust, TB/Plenum, pulleys and a Predator tuner is not a problem.

Dan04COBRA

I thought his post was easy to understand, looks like we know who couldn't sit still in school

Anyways, to make 300RWHP you will need full bolt-ons with LONG TUBES, not shorties. You'll need a set of aftermarket cams, along with a port & polish of your heads & your intake manifold to see 300+ RWHP naturally aspirated, oh yeah forgot to mention...a TUNE!!

Unfortunately, us 2v guys are at a huge disadvantage unless we go with a blower or nitrous. Those 4v heads make all the difference in the world.

maddash

ok dan 02 you got your shot now its my turn. First I did not mean to dog longswork, sorry if I did, just my language I guess. I did not understand 265 hp and 10-15 horsepower from a catback. Sorry longworks. and for you Dan no I can't sit my $$$ too long, but I guess you can with your 5000+ post.

96GT70SS

you kidding 35 extra hp? WOW......you have not been in engine building long huh?

a good appx. estimate on the 'trivia' question would be about

140-160cfm on the intake side
110-120 on the exhaust (maybe a little high for exh though)

anyways, stock heads (2v) flow NEARLY EXACTLY

156/116 on the NON P.I.

and on the PI heads 163/150


the estimated peak HP on NON PI-n/a @.500 is 321hp

PI@ .550=364hp

and if anyone is interested, i have a head flow chart that shows nearly every V8 head from domestic manuf. and their peak hp @ what lift on an n/a engine....oh yah, and the cfm they flow... any other trivia?

thasalvoo

Are you joking me??? 300 to the crank or to the wheels???? what kind of post is this? 300 to the crank is easily attainable, and with head work and cams and some longtubes, upper intake and a sweet tune you are well over 300 at the wheels....
i have numbers to prove it

BCisme

an absolute MUST have for 300 to the wheels. i donht know of anyone doing it without them, at least not with more espensive porting and cam work. i'm making 301, and more soon with my new shortblock and more tuning.