mstang2k6

So the good first...

- The car's throttle feels a lot better, the car accelerates a lot smoother
- The stang seems noticeably faster, when I first drove around after the install the car felt pretty noticeably quicker. The car seemed to accelerate much quicker...(But then again this could have been my imagination). I haven't really taken in it to high speeds yet (aka on the highway), but the most gain is supposedly suppose to occur at higher rpms.
- The cars exhaust sounds substanitally louder, and a the exhaust tone is a little bit different.
- The intake makes a pretty sweet sucktion noise when I stepping on the gas

The bad....

- A bit pricey for all three items
- Kind of a pain to install the intake, aka connecting the mass air flow sensor to the mass air flow adapter

Overall...

Pretty pleased; I would purchase the same parts if i had to do it over again

And to the real reason behind this post...

After getting everything installed my car threw a check engine light. Has this happened to anyone after a similar install or anyone have any thoughts as to what it might be? I've tried disconecting the battery several times but the light keeps on returning and I've checked all the connection visible to the me in the engine bay and they all seem pretty much fine (haven;t rechecked the ...

I'm thinking it might be:

-When i reinstalled the throttle body position sensor I may have accidentally moved the throttle body positin slightly...(i may not have, not really sure if i did)

-I did notice that the install instruction said something about a separate IAF Sensor, but i have a 2003 gt, so i'm pretty sure that's not the case for me.

SilverGT03

Good info

ct_white_stang

Whats the DTC code you are getting?

mstang2k6

I haven't had a chance to get to autozone to check the code that the check engine light is throwing. Any thoughts to what the typical reasons for the check engine light might be?(as i stated above, i've checked the connections on all the hoses and they seem fine)

ct_white_stang

There are a ton of reasons some which could be totally unrelated to you putting the new parts on. You can use the on-board DTC reader if you can't get to the shop. I think what you do is hold in the trip button and then turn the car to the on position, not started, for five seconds then let go when it goes into diag mode then continue to push the button till you get to the DTC section. Some of the codes are irrelevant and are not DTC. They should start with a P.

cliffyk

There is no "on-board DTC reader" that has anything to do with the ECU or any other powertrain system--read this...

ct_white_stang

My bad...I do remember reading somewhere that you could put it into diag mode. I just assumed that you could read powertrain codes. I stand corrected. Thanks

mstang2k6

So i just had a chance to test drive the car a little more. It seems when i accelerate to around 40mph and let off the gas and try to re-accelerate the cars simply wont. It seems like the car just won't go higher then 1000-1500 rpms. Or if i accelerate quickly, let off the gas and try to flore it the car won't really accelerate. My guess that it has something to do with the throttle body installation, I noticed after the install when i had the car turned off and was pressing down on the throttle body(spinning the throttle body plate) the throttle body cable would kind of stutter/bounce back when i released the throttle (i don't remember if this was normal or not, meaning should the throttle body cable just go back smoothly in one motion when releasing the throttle body?). I mean it looks like it's installed properly but this would be my guess...thoughts?

**Update**

Still haven't had a chance to get the codes checked out but on my drive to work this morninig the same issue as i stated in the message right above(It seems like the car just won't go higher then 1000-1500 rpms.) Well driving to work this morining sometimes when i even hit 30, it would seem like the rpms would just die down and drop to 1100 or so and not reaccelerate. I don't know if this has to do with the throttle body cable or just the check engine light that's on. All i have to say is wtf, i simple install turns into all this bull $@it

reznap

Going to have to get those codes checked out. I would recommend getting a handheld tuner or something for a future purchase seeing how reading codes is one of their benefits. Having the TPS out of adjustment will cause the car to idle funny and stuff, maybe drive funny also... but it shouldn't throw a code. If you maybe did something wrong switching over the EGR valve, maybe that could throw a code (but it's hard to say). Not sure why your cable would stutter/bounce...

Did you let it sit and idle a while after installing the new throttle body and plenum? When I did mine it came with instructions saying I should let it idle until the engine warmed up fully to let the computer sort of 'learn' the new setup and figure out where it wanted to idle.

One other thing? Did you clean out the inside of the throttle body housing? Most companies apply a bore coating to the inside of the TB, around where the plate sits when closed. Cleaning this stuff off and making it smooth I guess causes a clusterf--- with the idle and the way the car runs.

Just taking stabs though... go get those codes read ASAP.

mstang2k6

So i went over to autozone to get my car scanned after work and sure enough the code was related to the throttle position sensor. I guess i did more damage to it then i thought while trying to take it off (the screws where stripped). Anyway, so I installed the new throttle position sensor and the check engine light went away; i didn't really get to test drive the car, i just idled the car for 5 minutes or so and the light appeared to stay off. I hope this is the permanent fix to all my issues, specifically the issue where i mentioned