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4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

clutch adjustment

Old 07-12-2009, 07:06 PM
  #11  
kodiak
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I would do that but the dilemma is clutch was already just replaced 3000 miles ago. Long tubes also make it quite more expensive. Also what makes anybody so sure that replacing the throwout bearing and the noise coming back again in 3000 miles. Just not exactly sure if I understand adjustment procedure. Dont really know which direction to push the tab and should I do factory adjustment first by pulling on the clutch pedal. Do you think if I brought the car to ford they would know about this adjustment procedure? Maybe tech bulletin?
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Old 07-12-2009, 08:20 PM
  #12  
zero2005
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they should know how to adjust it. if not avoid them like they're evil! lol. anyways, a good TOB should not die after 3000 miles, unless a cheap/crap *** mechanic installed it.

who did your clutch install? did they just do the clutch?
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Old 07-12-2009, 08:28 PM
  #13  
Andy13186
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push tab toward the front of car
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Old 07-12-2009, 11:04 PM
  #14  
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WOW!!! this is exactly whats currently happening to me. Well since my brother recently graduated UTI, we figured this could be his 1st project, so we dropped the tranny and replaced the pilot bearing with no problem. The sounds was alot worst before, and after we changed the pilot & throwout bearings the sound decreased by a 90% I would say. Now I so regreat, that I bought both bearings from autozone. Yes, just by resting my ankle on the pedal, wich is probably 1.5 to 2 pounds (lol) the sound completly goes away. I actually thought about buying the 2 performance bearings and a STEEDA clutch adjust kit. By the way I dont know with long tubes, but honeslty if you got the tools and know just simple mechanics, dropping the tranny and all this procedure,, I would rate it a good 5 out of 10. Just make sure where every single bolt goes.... good luck
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Old 07-13-2009, 04:41 PM
  #15  
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It is common for TOB's to chirp a bit when the cable is just a bit too tight. It's the bearing face just "kissing" the clutch spring fingers--doesn't necessarily mean the bearing is bad...

This was very common in the early Miata's I used to have. If the pedal free-play was just a bit too little the fluid would heat, and expand, and push the TOB in to where it would rattle and chirp a bit--increasing the free-play would fix it...
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Old 07-13-2009, 08:27 PM
  #16  
kodiak
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Default clutch adjustment

I am imagining that if I follow the directions that were given to me this adjustment will increase the freeplay a little? This makes me fell a little better because like I said before I really did not want to pull this trans> thanx again to all
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Old 07-13-2009, 10:41 PM
  #17  
cliffyk
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Originally Posted by kodiak View Post
I am imagining that if I follow the directions that were given to me this adjustment will increase the freeplay a little? This makes me fell a little better because like I said before I really did not want to pull this trans> thanx again to all
If you just do the owner's manual, "pull the pedal up with your toe" you will have plenty of free-play. The manual adjustment in the Corral article makes it a bit tighter, however unless you bend the pawl stop out of the way as described it won't last. Best bet is an after market quadrant and firewall adjuster.
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Old 07-14-2009, 07:45 PM
  #18  
kodiak
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Tried pulling pedal up did not fix problem. Also tried to move that hook adjuster but no luck either. The clutch pedal is higher than the brake pedal, NOrmal? Is there any other adjustments or am I up the creak. Im mad because clutch feels fine and only 3k on it. Those longtubes make that trans removal look rough. Any other help greatly appreciated. Anybody recomeneded in northern new jersey to take car to?
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