Automatic to Manual Swap - MustangForums.com

Notices
4.6L (1996-2004 Modular) Mustang Technical discussions on 1996-2004 4.6 Liter Modular Motors (2V and 4V) within.

Automatic to Manual Swap

Reply

 
 
 
Old 08-05-2009, 02:50 PM
  #1  
J_Rod
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
J_Rod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: South East Indiana
Posts: 353
Default Automatic to Manual Swap

Swapping an automatic transmission out for a 5 speed.

Things that will be needed:

Manual Transmission, I used a TR-3650
Manual Transmission block plate
Transmission Mount
Flywheel with bolts
Clutch and Pressure Plate
Throwout Bearing
Pilot Bearing
Clutch Fork
Clutch Cable
Clutch and Brake Pedal Assembly make sure it has the sensors
Quick Release clutch Quadrant
Manual Transmission Computer (for your application GT, Mach, Cobra)
Rubber seal for shifter and Shifter Boot
Stock or aftermarket shifter base with handle and ****
Use automatic transmission cross member. (96-98 cars may need to be modified)
Manual transmission driveshaft
2 3/8" npt plugs

Tools needed:

Floor jack and jack stands
3/8" Assortment of metric and SAE sockets (recommend universal sockets and shallow 6pt)
Extensions
Ratchet
set of metric and SAE wrenches
1/4" drive set with metric and SAE sockets
Wiring Diagram
Lots of patience

To get started

Pull the panel under the steering wheel off and remove the steel plate.
Remove the bolt connecting the steering column to link at the brake pedal assembly.
Remove the pin and clip holding the brake pedal to the master cylinder push rod.
Then remove the 4 bolts holding the steering column in place. Lower the column onto the floor, the remove the 4 nuts holding the brake pedal assembly and pull it out and disregard it. Reuse the brake pedal sensor, and install the clutch and brake pedal assembly with quadrant already installed. Hook up the sensor to the wires that they fit in, they have loop connectors in the connections that need to be hooked to the sensors on the clutch pedal assembly. Bolt the steering column in place, make sure it isnt crooked when you put it back. Put the bolt back into the into the link. Bolt the metal panel back into place then snap the plastic trim cover back into place.

**Note there is a cable that goes from the shifter to the ignition, you can remove this if you want to, its not necessary though. It uses a torx bit.**

Remove the passenger side kick panel. Use the 1/4 inch drive shaft to remove the metal plate so you can get at the computer. Use the 1/4 drive and remove the connector going into the computer then connect the new computer in the same way that the other was connected then snug up the bolt going into it computer. Replace the plastic cover over the computer then put the metal plate containing the electrical connectors. Reinstall the kick panel.

**Be careful not to drop the small bolts in behind the computer, they are tough to recover**

Pop the cover off around the shifter and unbolt the center console and lift it up and out of the way. Remove the 4 bolts holding the automatic shifter in place, remove the electrical connection and remove the pin hold the cable the goes to the steering column for the ignition lock. Make sure the car is in park.

Go under the car and unbolt the shifter cable then remove the shifter from the car.

Remove the h-pipe from the manifolds. Then remove the starter. Use tubing wrenches to remove the transmission cooling lines and use the npt plugs with some teflon tape and install them into the radiator.

Use a 1/2" wrench and remove the 4 bolts holding the drive shaft to the pinion. Get a couple of bags and some tape and tape the bags around the rear of the transmission to keep fluid from spilling.

**If 96-98 remove the nuts holding the mount to the cross member**

Remove the inspection cover then unbolt the torque converter from the flex plate.

Unbolt the cross member and let the back of the transmission drop. Now you can remove the transmission electrical connections easily. Be careful with the harness because it will be reused later.

I recommend using a 4x4 and a floor jack and jack the front of the engine up so it is easier to get at the upper bolts. Once the transmission is out you can now remove the flex plate bolts. And replace it with a flywheel and flywheel bolts torque them to spec, use thread sealant/ loc tite on these bolts.

Install pilot bearing with a dab of grease on the rollers.

Use brake cleaner on the surface of the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel. Use alignment tool to align the clutch and torque the pressure plate to spec.

On the transmission put a dab of grease on the input shaft, slide the throw out bearing on, put a dab of grease on the clutch fork pivot stud then install the clutch fork. Put a thin touch of grease on the throw bearing.

Before installing the transmission be sure to have the manual transmission block plate in place. I found its best to take an put a couple of dabs of silicone on it to hold it to the block while installing the transmission.

Make sure the floor jack hasnt bled down any, slide the transmission into place making sure you dont get into the pressure plate. Once the transmission is slid onto the studs you can reuse the bolts from the auto transmission and bolt it in place.

While the transmission is hanging there take the automatic transmission wiring harness and study the wiring diagram to find the back up light wires and the nuetral safety switch wires because the car wont start if you miss this important step.

Once you have the wiring harness on top of the transmission, bolt up the crossmember. Next slide the manual transmission drive shaft in place and bolt it up.

Remove the rubber plug from the firewall and drill out a small hole, there is an indentation where the hole needs to be drilled. Run the cable through the firewall and run a screw in the hole you drilled to hold the cable in place. Next hook the cable to the quadrant then route the cable towards the battery where a bracket bolts to an existing hole, then run it along the engine to the bell housing and connect it to the clutch fork. Dont adjust it up tight leave a 1/4" to 1/2" of play in the cable.

Back to the interior side of things, fill the transmission up with atf fluid then take and run a bead of silicone around the shifter base then set the shifter base onto the transmission and run the 4 bolts down into it and snug it up. Now install the rubber seal on the transmission tunnel, put the 4 small bolts in that and snug them down. Put the center console back into place and bolt it down. Install the shifter handle, then install the shifter boot. Put the **** on.

Bolt the starter on and h pipe. Then the car should be ready to go. Be nice to the clutch for 300 miles.
J_Rod is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2009, 05:19 PM
  #2  
705techno
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Ontario
Posts: 26
Default

Beautiful...should be a sticky!


One day I will attempt this!
705techno is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2009, 05:22 PM
  #3  
705techno
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Ontario
Posts: 26
Default

whoops double post
705techno is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2009, 05:58 PM
  #4  
lilcrate
4th Gear Member
 
lilcrate's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: MO
Posts: 1,030
Default

Any idea on cost of parts?
lilcrate is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2009, 06:55 PM
  #5  
J_Rod
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
J_Rod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: South East Indiana
Posts: 353
Default

when I did my swap I spent around $2300. I used a refurbished transmission, billet steel flywheel. FRPP cobra clutch kit.
J_Rod is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2009, 08:53 PM
  #6  
liljojo4711
4th Gear Member
 
liljojo4711's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: dallas
Posts: 1,009
Default

i want to but cant justify 2300....
liljojo4711 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2009, 09:07 PM
  #7  
J_Rod
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
J_Rod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: South East Indiana
Posts: 353
Default

that $2300 included a steeda clutch cable, firewall adjuster, and quick release quadrant, as well as a Roush short throw. If you wanted to do it on the cheap and make it a bone stock swap it would be around $1800. Prices on this swap may vary as for what you can find.
J_Rod is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2009, 09:31 PM
  #8  
stagnet04
1st Gear Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ca
Posts: 110
Default

good stuff....
stagnet04 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2009, 09:54 PM
  #9  
JC316
4th Gear Member
 
JC316's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 1,925
Default

Not too much more trouble than swapping out a transmission. Good writeup, but what are you supposed to do with the neutral safety switch wire and the backup light wire? You say to locate them, but what do you do with them?

If you got a junkyard tranny and went to a pick U pull to get the pedals and computer, I bet you could do this swap for under $1000.
JC316 is offline  
Reply With Quote
Old 08-05-2009, 10:07 PM
  #10  
J_Rod
2nd Gear Member
Thread Starter
 
J_Rod's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: South East Indiana
Posts: 353
Default

Theres 2 wires that need to be spliced together so the car can start. The back up light wires need to be located so you can splice a connector so you will have working back up lights.
J_Rod is offline  
Reply With Quote

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Quick Reply: Automatic to Manual Swap


Advertising
Featured Sponsors
Vendor Directory

Contact Us Archive Advertising Cookie Policy Privacy Statement Terms of Service

We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.